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ALBRIGHT VS WILLIS KNOT ?


Iron Duke

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Ok have always used albright knot for connecting lines together but saw a different knot tonight I have never seen and it looks like a good one to but seems like it may slip to me with a decent fish onboard.... Guys let me know the pros and cons if there is any or is this just a preference thing once again???? Always open minded to try different knots and techniques. .

Mike

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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I prefer the Willis now (since my buddy Admiral Byrd suggested I try it last year) and it works great. I do add a touch of glue to the knot as a precaution but that's me...it has never broken or been a problem and it goes through the tip and eyes of my rods with ease. It takes a little doing to get the mono threaded through  and butted up against the lead inner core but I don't worry about the knot at all.

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To me it seems like a bit extra work especially when on board a boat during tournament time to tie the willis when I have never had an albright untie on me..You don't have to strip the lead out when you tie an albright and take the time to thread it up into the fabric of the core.. I have heard and see that companys make glue for putting together knots but why use it when you don't need it?? Keep them coming I wanna hear the pros and cons of these knots..

Mike

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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I can never seem to get the mono into the sheath for a Willis knot. I use abright on LC to Mono. Inline swivels for Copper to Mono/Braid.

The albright works great with copper and braid too... Try it!! Just make sure you get at least 7 raps around when tying them together... To me the swivels just ask for trouble....

Mike

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Mono isn't too hard to slip in, when you pull back the braid sheath to cut the lead, butt your mono right to the lead, and slide it back over the mono. Silly easy and I've not lost anything yet (no glue only one knot) knock on wood.

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The albright works great with copper and braid too... Try it!! Just make sure you get at least 7 raps around when tying them together... To me the swivels just ask for trouble....

Mike

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I've lost too many copper lines from what appears to be the copper cutting into mono at the knot with an albright.  I'll stick with swivels for copper.

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I think when all is said and done it does boil down to preference....it is a matter of what knot you have confidence in and good results with over time. 

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I've lost too many copper lines from what appears to be the copper cutting into mono at the knot with an albright. I'll stick with swivels for copper.

Never lost a copper due to cutting through.. I run power pro backing and flouro leader with no problems and my equipment fishes at least 4 days a week

Mike

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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I have used the willis knot , but I usually make them with two loops about 2 inches apart. It works good with 27# to 20#. The 18 # is harder and you have to use 12 #mono

 

I do the same but only for core..... if I was going to join core and braid I would still use the willis knot but also use a needle to thread the braid into the core..........

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To me it seems like a bit extra work especially when on board a boat during tournament time to tie the willis when I have never had an albright untie on me..You don't have to strip the lead out when you tie an albright and take the time to thread it up into the fabric of the core.. I have heard and see that companys make glue for putting together knots but why use it when you don't need it?? Keep them coming I wanna hear the pros and cons of these knots..

Mike

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

I never was real good at the albright and had a LARGE landlock make mine pull apart that why I went to barrel swivels joining my mono mainline to my floroleader material...... then this year I had a barrel swivel fail but it was a tight fit thru the top eye on the rod and would stick now and then..... ( pulled the rod and replace it with one that ahs a larger eye)

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Willis Knot is a great knot for core to leader. For backing to core I prefer the Albright.

Thanks Rick.... That's what I love about this site every time you think you got the fine tune on a setup there's always a little more fine tuning to do... One thing about the outdoor sports you never stop learning and if you do your doing something wrong....

Mike....

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Edited by Iron Duke
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Does anyone use small section of mono between backing and lead core? I use either 30 or 40# in between to attach in line boards. I use Albright on one end and Willis on the other.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

I started doing this on some of our cores, and I think I'm gonna do it for the rest of them this off-season.

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Does anyone use small section of mono between backing and lead core? I use either 30 or 40# in between to attach in line boards. I use Albright on one end and Willis on the other.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

yup, been doing that for years and it also allows you to use the willis knot on the backing end as well.  It's real tough to feed braid into the lead core sheath.

 

Tim

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Does anyone use small section of mono between backing and lead core? I use either 30 or 40# in between to attach in line boards. I use Albright on one end and Willis on the other.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

First I decide if the reel's backing can be straight mono or if it will need a superbraid backing to achieve an adequate length. I try to keep 200 yds or more backing on a reel. If I can't get 200 yds of mono, I'll splice in some Power Pro.

 

My core reels are spooled as follows:

 

1) Arbor knot ties either a) 200+yds of mono backing or b) enough 20lb mono to spool to get three levelwind passes (used as an underwrap for power pro backing - to keep PP from slipping on spool), then Albright knot splices on power pro backing.

2) Size 8 spro

3) 10' of 30lb mono (to attach planer)

4) Willis knot attaches core

5) Leadcore splicing needle used to attach size 8 spro to end of core

6) fluorocarbon leader of various weights tied to Spro (depending on time of year and lure or attractor being used)

 

The two swivels keep everything running smoothly. The 30lb mono behind the core holds up well to attaching planers and can be easily changed if needed out on the water.

 

The leadcore splicing needle is a specialty tool here in the US that hasn't really caught on yet. In Europe, it is a commonly used tool that gives you lots of new ways to work with core (like creating loose or tight loops in the end of core). The needle is used to pull the end of the core back inside itself giving really smooth transitions compared to Willis or Albright knots; there is just a very slight increase in core diameter. I use a snug loop to attach to one side of the Spro.

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yup, been doing that for years and it also allows you to use the willis knot on the backing end as well.  It's real tough to feed braid into the lead core sheath.

 

Tim

For those that want to feed braid into leadcore for a Willis knot, first apply a soaking coat of Elmer's glue to the braid. Draw the soaked braid through your fingers to remove the excess and set the braid aside to dry. Once the glue dries, the now stiff braid will slide easily into the core sheathing. Tie the Willis as usual, the glue has no effect to the knot strength, it's just a stiffening agent.

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