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W.W.IV.

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My son gave me a CVA Kodak Mag. with a two to seven scope two years ago.

 I took it to the range to site it in, the first thing I learned was the spent primer had two be removed manually,the scope was bore sighted so I took a shoot at twenty yds,right on, moved out to 50yds and took an other shot, it was about five ins. high and two ins. to the right. I reloaded and couldn't close the breach. I packed up and went home, I pulled the barrel off and found the spent primer had fallen inside the breach and was keeping it from closeing.I solved the problem by useing a pocket magnet to remove the primer. Are all the in lines the same?  Thanks.

                                                                                       Mike.

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I think you need to be pretty diligent with your between shot cleaning regimen or your accuracy will go to hell.  When all the fouling builds up in the rear of the barrel the bullet will never seat the same way, thus your point of impact will never be quite the same.  In most hunting situations you will probably be firing from a clean/cold bore so that is how I try to sight mine in.  Hope this helps.  Good luck.

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Since I started (when they made it legal to use) I used Pyrodex pellets 50/50 and Power belts bullets I used these for years because I could get 8 shots off before I needed to clean the barrel, I marked the ram rod and I couldn't get the 8th bullet down to the mark. I hade to buy a aftermarket ram rod the one that came with the gun only stuck11/2"1+ out of the barrel making it difficult to load. Now I switched over to triple F powder and sabot type bullet which is a 45cal. bullet that was used in the 45-70 cal. rifle the bullet is made by Barns bullets, really works nice, I use 100grains or 2 pellets and the sabot 45cal-250 grains and that shoots very well out of my gun, and the water proof 209 muzzle loader primer made by Winchester and this combination is what I stuck with because it works very well on both ends.

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       Well it appears my post was not very clear. My question is do you have to manually have to remove the spent primer by hand on all the in line BP guns. It seems to me it would be a pain in the a-- to remove the old primer at the end of the season to reload in a foot of snow and the temp. down around 10degs. and the scope in the way.

 

  Four you that asked I shoot 223 gr.power belts with 100gr.of triple seven and its a 45 cal. gun. I don't like the sabits,its hard to get the first round in with a clean barrel. thats fine at the range but not in the woods.

 

        I hope this clears things up. :) .            mike.

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Yea triple7 not S like I said, and I only shoot 100 grains or 2 pellets, mine kicks like a mule with 3 pellets and at 100 yards they shoot the same. Maybe longer shots I would consider 3 pellets, and most likely the velocity would be greater with 3 but I killed lots with 2 pellets and the gun don't kill on both ends

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       Well it appears my post was not very clear. My question is do you have to manually have to remove the spent primer by hand on all the in line BP guns. It seems to me it would be a pain in the a-- to remove the old primer at the end of the season to reload in a foot of snow and the temp. down around 10degs. and the scope in the way.

 

  Four you that asked I shoot 223 gr.power belts with 100gr.of triple seven and its a 45 cal. gun. I don't like the sabits,its hard to get the first round in with a clean barrel. thats fine at the range but not in the woods.

 

        I hope this clears things up. :) .            mike.

No in-lines I know of that actually extract the primer from the nipple, and it is a ginormous PITA, to be fiddling around with that primer tucked up under the scope on an in-line, under most any condition..........just one of the reasons I traded mine off.

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 You need to remove the spent primer after every shot in order to reload the rifle. Using a primer loading tool to get under the scope helps.  Also if you are shooting for accuratecy(sp) you should run a damp patch between shots. Clean barrel = easy loading & shooting dead on. jmho.  I also agree with Pap's last post about 2 pellets doing the job.  Good luck!

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I found an easy way to remove the old primer, I got a telescopeing magnet,it pulls the primer out  without any fooling around. Try it you'll like it.

                                                                Mike.

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I found an easy way to remove the old primer, I got a telescopeing magnet,it pulls the primer out  without any fooling around. Try it you'll like it.

                                                                Mike.

WWIV that's a great idea!! never thought of that, usually 1 shot is needed but in those hurry up times, well there is no hurry up, but with that Idea it will definitely speed things up, with these guns the shot is so devastating that a quick 2nd isn't necessary. I've seen where they fly a$$ over tin cup, finished business.

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WWIV that's a great idea!! never thought of that, usually 1 shot is needed but in those hurry up times, well there is no hurry up, but with that Idea it will definitely speed things up, with these guns the shot is so devastating that a quick 2nd isn't necessary. I've seen where they fly a$$ over tin cup, finished business.

 

           pap.

                 the first season I used BP I was shooting a TC renagade 50cal. with doubble set triggers patch and ball.no scope.  My son pushed a nice 7pt. to me and I broke his back, I quickly reloaded I set the first trigger and started to come down on the deer and touched the other trigger and shot up in the air. I reload and finished him off. It was a learning thing. :) .

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           pap.

                 the first season I used BP I was shooting a TC renagade 50cal. with doubble set triggers patch and ball.no scope.  My son pushed a nice 7pt. to me and I broke his back, I quickly reloaded I set the first trigger and started to come down on the deer and touched the other trigger and shot up in the air. I reload and finished him off. It was a learning thing. :) .

Yea, I understand that there will always be those circumstances that are beyond our control, but in the norm. 1 is all it takes, or a reload before the getting on the blood trail. Your situation was definitely different, bottom line he's in the cook pot!!!

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I had the same problem with my older inline cva also. I bought a new set of higher scope rings that raised the scope up a bit which made it a little easier to work the primer in and out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Knight disk rifle is what you want. It's easy to use and the disk/primer is captured by the bolt. Do yourself a favor and switch to blackhorn powder all the good things said about it are more than true!

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

PKomrowski

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A few years ago I switched to Blackhorn 209 powder. It causes nearly zero fouling , and reloading a second shot is much easier than when I used pyrodex or 777. I only wish it came in pellets.

I also use Barnes bullets. Love em

Rusty.

 

Was sighting in my TC Omega the other day and was shooting 3" low and 2" to the right at 50 yards with a 295grn. powerbelt and 100grns. of pyrodex pelets. Couldn't get it to move no matter what I did with the scope. Even tried 150grns. of pyrodex. Eventually I got the windage but still 3" low.

 

Read nothing but positive things about Blackhorn 209 powder that is made exclusively for inline muzzleloaders. Took a trip over to HVS's and got me some. Looked up a ballisics chart online and suggested 120grns. with a 295 grn. powerbelt. Loaded it up, went to the target, pulled the trigger and hit the bullseye. Cleaned the gun and put it away. I'll use Blackhorn 209 powder from now on.

Edited by DaveF
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Was sighting in my TC Omega the other day and was shooting 3" low and 2" to the right at 50 yards with a 295grn. powerbelt and 100grns. of pyrodex pelets. Couldn't get it to move no matter what I did with the scope. Even tried 150grns. of pyrodex. Eventually I got the windage but still 3" low.

 

Read nothing but positive things about Blackhorn 209 powder that is made exclusively for inline muzzleloaders. Took a trip over to HVS's and got me some. Looked up a ballisics chart online and suggested 120grns. with a 295 grn. powerbelt. Loaded it up, went to the target, pulled the trigger and hit the bullseye. Cleaned the gun and put it away. I'll use Blackhorn 209 powder from now on.

            I've heard a lot of good reports about Blackhorn and I will give it a try but not this season. I want to burn up the 777 I've got.

 

   DaveF. It sounds to me like you should send your scope in for repares or get a new one. The Blackhorn mite have given you what you wanted,but after the season take it out and see if you can ajust the scope up and down and left to right. I'm thinking you have a problem with it.

                                                                               Good luck abd be safe.   :)              Mike.

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            I've heard a lot of good reports about Blackhorn and I will give it a try but not this season. I want to burn up the 777 I've got.

 

   DaveF. It sounds to me like you should send your scope in for repares or get a new one. The Blackhorn mite have given you what you wanted,but after the season take it out and see if you can ajust the scope up and down and left to right. I'm thinking you have a problem with it.

                                                                               Good luck abd be safe.   :)              Mike.

If the powder didn't make a difference, my next move was to get a new scope Mike. The gun and Nikon scope are about 10 years old, and that's quite a few shots. I had it bore sighted a few months ago, and the guy at the gun shop told me it wasn't that far off. The gun will definately have a new scope on it next season. I'm going to shoot it again tomorrow to make sure that one 10 ring shot wasn't a "fluke".

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If the powder didn't make a difference, my next move was to get a new scope Mike. The gun and Nikon scope are about 10 years old, and that's quite a few shots. I had it bore sighted a few months ago, and the guy at the gun shop told me it wasn't that far off. The gun will definately have a new scope on it next season. I'm going to shoot it again tomorrow to make sure that one 10 ring shot wasn't a "fluke".

 

 

      DaveF, check with a Nikon dealer you might be able too have it repaired for $40-50 bucks or free.I have a old Redfeild 2.5 around forty years, after about twenty years I sent it back for a rebuild, they did it free, about three years ago I had it done again, cost $40 bucks. :)

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      DaveF, check with a Nikon dealer you might be able too have it repaired for $40-50 bucks or free.I have a old Redfeild 2.5 around forty years, after about twenty years I sent it back for a rebuild, they did it free, about three years ago I had it done again, cost $40 bucks. :)

Cool! I'll look into that. Thanks!

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Power belts are not good long range bullets. The bullet is .001 undersize and the gas cap is I believe .001 oversized. Bulley down loose comes out loose. Tried them and accurracy over 100 yrds went south. Hornaday SST in 300gr are real nice. Longer the bullet, better the stability. I shoot a T/C omega with 130 grn triple seven pelets and 300 sst. Out to 200 yrds, deadly accurate. 2in high at 100, aim 2in high at 150, 5 in high at 200. All 3 shots were on top of bullseye. No adj from last year. I was amazed too say the least.

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