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Multiple connections to battery


apb

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APB,

 

Not sure how you boat is wire but that is a lot of wires on one post (too many IMHO). I don't like more than two wires on any battery post.

 

Best way to wire to a hot post is to run all wires to a buss bar or fuse block, then a single wire (make sure it is the correct gauge for the load) to a battery switch then to the hot post.  Turn the switch off at the end of the day.

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I just added a horizontal 12v disconnect to my boat.  Similar to this but with a horizontal blade.

 

post-146674-0-44441700-1384694948_thumb.png

 

I also added a short piece of heavy wire cable with  2 battery terminal ends to both battery terminals so that I had a single attachments at the battery and the multiple connectors to the other end of the cable. Similar to this, but with the flat connector on both ends.

 

post-146674-0-38629200-1384695718_thumb.png

 

I'd include a picture, but I have the boat covered right now.  Works very well.

Edited by Big Water
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Here are a  few more comments I would like to suggest.

 

The Marinco battery connects work OK but you need to watch for vibration loosening the blade connectors.  Screw type connections are more secure and less likely to come loose.

 

You need to be careful with a knife type switch.  If your boat is an I/O or inboard and this switch is in the engine compartment, remember you have a real potential for gas vapors and these switches are not vapor proof.  Sparks can cause real damage real fast.  I have seen this first hand.  If it is in the engine compartment, all switches and ignition parts need to be vapor or explosion proof.

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Here are a  few more comments I would like to suggest.

 

The Marinco battery connects work OK but you need to watch for vibration loosening the blade connectors.  Screw type connections are more secure and less likely to come loose.

 

You need to be careful with a knife type switch.  If your boat is an I/O or inboard and this switch is in the engine compartment, remember you have a real potential for gas vapors and these switches are not vapor proof.  Sparks can cause real damage real fast.  I have seen this first hand.  If it is in the engine compartment, all switches and ignition parts need to be vapor or explosion proof.

I found at a going out of business hardware store battery connecter with 2 studs and I put 2 wires on each stud and used a nylon locking nut instead of the wing nut and put a battery disconnect(Perko) in between the battery and the instruments, so I have Instrument 1 on or both or all off works for me. When taking the batteries out for the winter I loosen the connecter and leave the wires in tack and the neg. terminal and out comes the batteries.

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Hey there

i use a perko switch on two power bar

i've got 10 slot on my power bar

one for negative and one for positive

only three wire on the batterie on each terminal

i've got one wire for the power bar and one for the automatic builge pump

and one for the instrumental panel

 

the frenchman

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All this connecting to the battery reminded me of my fishawk.

Whenever I hook it up it causes a spark because it instantly turns on although it has been turned off. It may be my display specific unit. Or does this  happen to other ones as well?

Edited by rolmops
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have found buss bars with only 2 bigger posts. one for the main cable going to the battery but my question is I have a kicker terminal, a main motor terminal and my minn Kota terminal to go to that other post. Should I stack them on 1 post on the buss bar or should I find a buss bar with multiple large posts on the inward side?

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