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      I am in the market for new trolling wire to run dipsey divers on. I will be using twilli tips on daiwa heartlands. What is the easiest wire to use. I was out last year and a got a few kinks in the line resulting in loosing a set up. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong. Is one company better then another, 7 or 19 strand, 30-40 lbs test. Any help would be useful.

 

 

Nick

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All 7 strand trolling wire is potentially subject to kinking...mainly related to "slack" of any type. Some of the most popular brands for fishing/trolling (not beading or jewelery creation as much of it is for) are: Bloodrun 7 strand, Malin7, Mason 7 strand, AWF Surfstrand and Accustrand. Each brand seems to have it's "supporters" and most runs about $40-50 or so for 1,000 ft of 30lb test (most commonly run). There are any number of ways to fasten it at critical points including knotting, crimping, transitioning and use of high quality swivels (e.g. Spro #8's and10's). Each method has it's merits and drawbacks....and when all is said and done it seems to relate to personal preference and personal experience primarily.  You are going to lose some equipment eventually while fishing no matter what.... period....and it may relate to the wire itself but usually it is more a matter of how it is rigged, stressed or allowed to gain slack and curl then kink....just have to be careful with it and constantly check it out for potential weak spots.

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The 19 strand wire is softer and less abrasive to rod guides than 7 strand. When 7 strand wire is damaged and fails, it tends to be a complete failure of all seven strands which leads to a loss of gear. When 19 strand fails, usually some of the filaments will fail but many survive giving you the opportunity to cut the wire back and eliminate the damage without loss of gear. For these two reasons, when it became necessary to refill a wire reel, I spent the extra money and went with the 19 strand over the 7 strand. Since doing so, I have not lost any gear as I've always had enough warning to see when the 19 needed to be cut back and retired. For me, in the long run, the savings easily outweigh the additional initial cost.

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I have run Mason, Malin and torpedo wire over the years. I switched 2 of my reels to torpedo wire and ended up switching back to Malin. I had trouble with the torpedo wire I twisting and getting small frays easier but it did not link as easy.

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Gambler is right....and also put  small amount (50ft or so) of 30 lb. test Big Game mono on the spool first (not braid) to protect the spool from potential damage from the wire as it tightens over time (this is from the reel repair guy at TunaTom's). I used a #8 Spro swivel and it will go through the line guide/level wind mechanism (should it ever be necessary). 

Edited by Sk8man
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I want to thank everyone for their input. I love to fish for walleye and salmon but one thing I noticed about Lake Ontario compared to other great lakes is that most people are very friendly especially to the outsiders. This includes the fisherman, bait shops and restaurant ect. Most people will point you in the right direction and this relates to having better success and willing to come back to spend money on the local economy.

 

Nick

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I've gone over a season without cutting back and retying and have never had a wire break. I will cut back and retie if the curly Q's get too excessive. But I get 5-6 seasons out of a wire before I replace it, usually once it starts to get short from retying.

I use 30 lb Malin. I did set up a second set of wire diver rods with 19 strand torpedo wire last season, but didn't get much of a chance to use them much.

Tim

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I run mine the same length.  I set one side of the boat with the deep diver running below the thermalcline, and the other in the thermalcline.  The other side I run one in the thermalcline and the other high out of temp. 

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Just don't set it PAST the 3 (and  thinking you'll get more out of it) because I'll come right up to the surface :) I usually set them it at1 and 2 1/2 or so but it also matters what else you are running (e.g. downriggers as well or running them from boards etc.?). There are a variety of patterns to use that will work and it also depends on your particular boat width where you have your rod holders placed and downrigger boom lengths etc. it usually takes some playing around on your particular boat to see which is best for you.

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Well, sweet new ride and no matter what ....you always have to play around to get things just right on your own rig. Good luck with things this coming season.

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