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Older cannon power cables


salmonite

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I am buying older cannons mag 10s with black quick disconnects... Anyone have the female piece from plug to battery? I checked around for new and cannon wants to gouge you for an upgrade of 60 bucks a piece!!!

Any other thoughts on how to rig to battery?

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I know the new power cords are expensive but in my view they are something worth investing in. I replaced the old power cords twice for the same reason ...they fray and crack and expose the wire itself making them a big question mark about shorting out. If you can afford them I'd do yourself a favor and get the new ones now as they are very sturdy and will probably last the life of the downrigger Regardless how you hook them up put an inline fuse on each of them (I think they require a 30 amp fuse if my memory is correct). I run mine on my second battery (combination heavy duty deep cycle and starting battery) and have never had a problem as they are connected to the main fuse block that is breaker controlled.

Edited by Sk8man
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I had same situation and ended up spending the big money for the Cannon upgrade kit for two of my old Mag 10's that I ran all the time. I had two others I made a harness with a plug I found at an auto store that mated to the old style Cannon plug. I didn't use these riggers much and it did work. Wire that came with plug was really to small a gauge wire. I have seen guys cut off the Cannon plug and put both a new male and female in. Key is get a quality plug and use heavy wire back to the battery.

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 I was in the same situiation as you two years ago. Luckily a friend of ours gave me his Mag 10A's for free however when he sold the boat the female plugs went with it..so, I looked around and checked out fish307.com who has allot of legacy Canon parts. no dice so I ordered the new conversion plugs. I must say that it was well worth the $$. the new plugs are far heavier duty and have caps that seal the terminations...I highly recommend them.

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I have the older riggers myself and rewired using the trolling motor plugs which are #10 wire. I used #6 wire and went off the battery switch to a fuse panel from Blue Sea at the rear of the boat. Each rigger is fused separately with 30amp fuses from that panel. These fuse panels come in different sizes for however many circuits you want.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Salmonite those plugs (the plug part at least) looks like the ones I had installed when I bought my bought new in 2002 and they work fine. I have 4 of them and never have had any issues.

Edited by Sk8man
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I used the old wiring, cut the plug off, then broke off the crumbling dry rotted insulation back to the downrigger where it goes inside. Bought different sizes of shrink tubing at harbor freight, retwisted the wire, put multiple layers of shrink tubing on each wire then used larger one to cover both, then reconnected the plug with butt connectors and more shrink tubing. Alittle time consuming but worth the effort. Don't know why this is underlining

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attachicon.gifImageUploadedByLake Ontario United1408724430.360469.jpg

You think that would work?

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Absolutely they will work as that is the exact same plug senecio I used. I have removed that assembly from 2 other boats to the one I have know. I really like the water proof plug, I wired them identical so no guess work, pretty simple. And would like to add the plug is sturdy so if it gets stepped on it won't crush like the older ones. And I ran 10 gauge wire not the piano wire they came with, stronger motor and less amp draw with the heavier wire and of course I used a breaker fuse system, which has never tripped.

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Fuses should be located close to the battery terminal supplying the down rigger. Adding the downrigger load to other circuits is asking for trouble. Shorter leads have less voltage drop.Maybe a lot of spaghetti added to your boat is not esthetic but is better.

Edited by jimski2
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Jimski is right.  The connectors above are "clean"  too Here is what the receptacle looks like installed and on the second shot you can see how close the back ones are to the riggers

post-145411-0-97668100-1409494931_thumb.jpg

post-145411-0-61074600-1409495292_thumb.jpg

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Jimski is right.  The connectors above are "clean"  too Here is what the receptacle looks like installed and on the second shot you can see how close the back ones are to the riggers

hey I like that spoon holder great idea!
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hey I like that spoon holder great idea!

I use those pool noodles for spoons, stick baits, & wrap my worm harnesses around them & finish them off with a golf tee at the loop/ end. Tie them up under the gunnel, up out of the way & no worry about hooks for spoons & stick baits.
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