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what brand 30 lb wire 1000 ft, how far back floacarbin


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Bloodrun or Torpedo , Seagaur 20 or 25 for dipseys /spoons/stickbaits on Lake O but 12 or 15 for smaller bodies of water without kings (or muskies) :lol:  . Should be at least the rod length you are using but if too long you may be hand lining in the fish. I don't use fluorocarbon for flashers or spinneys off dipseys. or on flies (50lb mono for fly).

Edited by Sk8man
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My setups consist of Okuma 30 series cold water spooled with 1000ft of Blood Run 30# wire. In order to have full capacity on the reels I add 100ft of 30# mono as backer. When it comes to leaders I use only Blood Run flouro and the # changes depending on what I'm running behind the diver. 20# for spoons but as small as 12#. 30# for flashers and paddles but late in the year as much as 40#. My leader lengths are approximately 12'.

Sent from my E6782 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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My setups consist of Okuma 30 series cold water spooled with 1000ft of Blood Run 30# wire. In order to have full capacity on the reels I add 100ft of 30# mono as backer. When it comes to leaders I use only Blood Run flouro and the # changes depending on what I'm running behind the diver. 20# for spoons but as small as 12#. 30# for flashers and paddles but late in the year as much as 40#. My leader lengths are approximately 12'.

Sent from my E6782 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

Same setup only no backing for me and i used the mason wire 1000'. I run 30# mono behind my dipsy usually 5'-6' then my flasher/spin dr. 24"-36" leader then fly. I like to have the whole setup about as long as my rod.

Edited by Chas0218
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I haven't had a problem with Malin and I'm sure it had brought 100,000+ fish to net across the lake...

I normally run Malin but do have one rod with Torpedo 7-strand right now I ran half the season and no issues. If the operator doesn't screw up the wire, I don't know how much different the "good" brands can differ.

Main rule...don't let it slack. Reel the diver all the way to the rod tip before you lay the rod down or leave it swinging but don't leave the diver hanging and then set the rod down and let the wire slack between the diver and the rodtip. If it curls and gets pulled tight it will break.

Some brands may be easier to fix the screw-up but its much easier to not screw it up to begin with...

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I think you can see from the answers that the wire that seems to work best is the one that you are using :lol: . Although there are difference in the actual tensile strength in tests of these brands of wire they are not truly significant (I saw a chart sometime back but can't remember where) and reportedly no difference in the camo or bright wire either in catch rate despite some folks assertions. It is mainly a matter of preference. Stranded wire requires some care though and most problems relating to it are usually undetected kinks, poor connections or both and it needs to be kept under tension at all times. The more critical element in your setup will probably be the connections themselves to fluoro especially and avoid using crappy fluoro like "Vanish" in favor of Seaguar or even inexpensive Vicious.

Edited by Sk8man
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"Vanish" is what the fish and the lure that just got bit do when they crack you off with that crap.

"Vanish" is also what the rest of the package of that crap does when you throw it in the lake after cracking off a couple fish.

Like Sk8man says, go with Seagaur.

JAM

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