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Just curious....was the blow up doll under the table while you were demonstrating? :lol:  It would also be nice to see that balloon knot :)

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Seems like most people run 50lb floro. Is it really needed with all the action going on with the paddle and fly? I ask because I am just running 50lb Big Game.

Jake;

IMHO, I use the flouro because it is stiffer, & because of that gives a better roll to the fly.

John

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I actually switched from 50 lb fluoro to Big Game quite a few years ago and like it better.  I've seen no drop off in bites with the Big Game and I think it is a bit more forgiving on some of those savage strikes due to its stretchiness.

 

Tim

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I'm with Tim on the 50 lb Big Game.....no problems with it and no break offs as I had with commercially tied flies with fluoro. My thinking is that a tiny bit of stretch is beneficial to absorb "shock" from kings (I don't use snubbers) and I also feel that the knot strength is better on mono after using both. Yes the fluoro is stiffer but it also is brittle and especially so in colder temps.

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"Knot" for nothing, lol, but if you think a 22" piece of mono is gonna save the day or have any effect for violent king hits, you may want to get some snubbers. Now, you could maybe convince me that a 10' piece of mono from the diver to the flasher may have some stretch that "might" help.

Sent from my XT1080 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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If you'll notice I said "tiny bit" of stretch (vs. none whatsoever with fluoro) and it can (and often does) "snap" right at the knot (regardless of the knot used) because of the brittle nature of the material and the hard coating on its exterior that "cuts through" itself when pulled under high instantaneous tension. It is just an opinion (not science) but it is based on my own experiences with both materials so I thought it worth mentioning. Honest I don't have any stock in Berkely Big Game or anything :) . I do use fluoro for many other things but not for flies or meat rigs

Edited by Sk8man
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I guess my point really was that since it has absolutely no discernible advantage in action, strength or reliability, spending the extra money on fluoro for your leaders is pointless, since the big cheap spool of big game that will last you 10 lifetimes works just as good.

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Aggressive whip action of the fly is fine for actively aggressive feeding fish but have you ever watched some of the videos here and on Youtube where the fish is having a hard time actually grabbing the fly when it is whipping back and forth at a fast rate? Salmon are very fast powerful swimmers that is not the problem but moving side to side rapidly is something that they can have a problem with. I have purposely designed my hand made flies to be a little heavier and the bodies tighter together (more defined target)so that they are slower back and forth while the flasher or spinney is still maintaining at or close to its usual speed so they can grab them easier. Just my away of doing it but maybe something to think about....

Edited by Sk8man
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OK boys, this is how we do it. It's not the only way, and some might say it's not the best way, but it works for us.

 

Should be live soon:

 

 

Very well done Captain. As always, thanks for taking the time to give us reports, tips, videos, etc. It is greatly appreciated

 

Cheers bud,

 

Chris

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Aggressive whip action of the fly is fine for actively aggressive feeding fish but have you ever watched some of the videos here and on Youtube where the fish is having a hard time actually grabbing the fly when it is whipping back and forth at a fast rate? Salmon are very fast powerful swimmers that is not the problem but moving side to side rapidly is something that they can have a problem with. I have purposely designed my hand made flies to be a little heavier and the bodies tighter together (more defined target)so that they are slower back and forth while the flasher or spinney is still maintaining at or close to its usual speed so they can grab them easier. Just my away of doing it but maybe something to think about....

Agreed. My flies have four large 12mm beads and 30" leaders... more of a scoot and glide rather than a whip action.

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I use light weight metallic jewelery beads and pearls usually 4 or 5 of them per fly but smaller flies 3 beads and I make them sort of "forward and reverse" for different impact (i.e."wildflies") and I use 3D eyes on all mine.

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post-145411-0-52190200-1423021373_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sk8man
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I use light weight metallic jewelery beads and pearls usually 4 or 5 of them per fly but smaller flies 3 beads and I make them sort of "forward and reverse" for different impact (i.e."wildflies") and I use 3D eyes on all mine.

 

When I can afford to put pearls on my fly harnesses I wont be fishing Lake Ontario!

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When I can afford to put pearls on my fly harnesses I wont be fishing Lake Ontario!

 

Capt. Hajecki,

 

What size is the clear tubing that you use for the echips and rattles? I use 1/8" but often it is a chore to squeeze the rattles in there.

 

Thanks a million,

 

Chris

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Capt. Hajecki,

 

What size is the clear tubing that you use for the echips and rattles? I use 1/8" but often it is a chore to squeeze the rattles in there.

 

Thanks a million,

 

Chris

 

I don't think it's 1/4ID, but I know it's not 1/8ID. Not quite sure. I just order it from A-TOM-MIK.

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Aw cmon Rick with all the big bucks you could use gold beads as well. Nothing like lightweight  imitation pearls to catch the eye of a female chinook :lol:

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