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gpearce

Cheater rig

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Chas

In that picture ...would you pinch the snap on the cheater to the mainline WITH the stacker clip? Can the stacker clip put good tension on the snap to hold it in place on the mainline?

On a stacker release you have a swivel like snap then 2 pinch pads.  You would attach the swivel like clip to the downrigger cable then attach 1 pinch pad to the downrigger cable this is to keep the cheater from moving up or down the mainline.  Then you will attach the 2nd pinch pad to the cheater line not the swivel of the cheater.  Then once a fish hits it will pull the cheater out of the release then slide down the mainline to the downrigger release and pop that release and slide down the mainline the rest of the way to the lure.

 

Below is a photo of a stacker style release.

post-149865-0-27916000-1433333996_thumb.jpg

Edited by Chas0218

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Gotcha! You're basically running a stacker setup off of one rod. I may have to give that a try. Thanks for the clarification.

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Not as you would think.  Somebody caught on underwater camera that a sliding cheater will eventually end up about 4' above the main line release.  It takes awhile to get there and you can follow it down on your fishfinder.  The less tension on the rod or heavier main line will effect a greater bow in the line due to drag and the cheater will be more likely to hang out there.

Really? I didn't think it would.

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I would think that the bow in mainline would depend on how tight the rod is cranked down also. I have seen some people put just enough tension on the to snap up others crank down so hard on them the tips are just about in the water which IMO would almost eliminate any bow in mainline.

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A bow in the mainline can also be created by the particular lure being used (e..g. Sutton 88's Evil Eyes etc.) and they appear to stay within it pretty good from what I've experienced.....small lightweight flutters maybe not so much.

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I want to thank everyone who gave some insight into how they rig their set up for this.. I never would have thought about doing this (still new) until I read this thread. I plan on trying to do this next week on a pre-Ontario shakedown trip to Lake George for lakers & salmon.. It seems there are various ways to set the cheater up so I'm going to go through each one with a few questions and please give me some pro's- con's..

         Option-1

1. Free sliding seems most easiest , attach main lure to bottom with release , start letting it down then attach a swivel/ coast lock to the main line with a 6' (?) leader off the swivel with second lure , correct ?

Question- how far down do you drop the main lure before hooking the snap (secondary) lure to the main line, all the way ?

2. I also see it can be done using another release set up hooking it free sliding on the rigger cable, is there any advantage to this ? Is there ever a problem getting TWO releases to trigger ?

     

            Option-2

1. same as above but make it fixed .  Now it seems you must attach the secondary lure fixed to the rigger cable with a release  AND the cheater line. Same question ? Is there an advantage or con to having essentially 3 release points (1-to cable-1 to cheater line -1 to bottom main lure ) all must release correct ?  

2. Would it possible to just use a rubber band to the rigger cable as the "fixed" release and snap the secondary lure to the rubber band ?  Does the rubber band stay pretty fixed to cable or does it tend to slip down ?

 

      Option-3 (don't even know if it's an option)

1. Is it possible to run a stacker (fixed)  release with another rod while using the cheater rig ? It seems I might just be asking for trouble but...

 

  Finally a general question:

for the secondary (cheater) lure, can you use a stick bait (rapala f-9 or 11 ) for the secondary lure instead of a spoon ? again I might just be asking for a big mess but I'm learning through your folks great experience..

 

Thank you kindly

Rich

Edited by Rich s

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Option #1 _ 1. - YES and  If you are using a rod longer than 6 ft you can go longer ....just short of the rod length so it is easier netting. If you are experienced handlining you can go longer but when dealing with kings this can be difficult :)

2. - The slider isn't ever put directly on the downrigger cable and when another release is used it usuallybecomes "fixed".. The advantage is that it keeps your lure at roughly the same depth relative to the main lure rather than sliding up and down so you have a better idea where it is.

 

Option #2 -

 

1. Only two release points one at the rubber band or release of the fixed slider and one at the main release for the main line lure.  Sometimes a small fish may fail to release BOTH at the same time but you can manually release it yourself (for either of them (the main or slider release).

 

2.  Yes you can use just the rubberband but you anticipated the answer to the second part....the rubberband often slips due to tension of the rod and waves etc.

 

Option #3 -

 

1. Yes it is possible but if you do it you may want to allow more space between the stacked rod and the other stuff and you may have to clear that rod if you have a king or nice fish on a line under it.  I normally allow about  10 -15 ft from the main line lure to the slider (between them) If doing what you are suggesting I'd allow at least double that. It also depends somewhat on how long you are running your main lure out.

 

general question - You can use a stickbait on the slider or the mainline but remember that those trebles are highly likely to get caught up in the main line or in the slider line.  If you're a risk taker and don't mind tangles "go for it"  :lol:

Edited by Sk8man

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On a stacker release you have a swivel like snap then 2 pinch pads.  You would attach the swivel like clip to the downrigger cable then attach 1 pinch pad to the downrigger cable this is to keep the cheater from moving up or down the mainline.  Then you will attach the 2nd pinch pad to the cheater line not the swivel of the cheater.  Then once a fish hits it will pull the cheater out of the release then slide down the mainline to the downrigger release and pop that release and slide down the mainline the rest of the way to the lure.

 

Below is a photo of a stacker style release.

 

 

Thanks Sk8.. I got the jest and risks of it.. I guess the thing to do is start slow and let it grow once we work out the bugs..

still a little confused about the fixed cheater as this above is how I picture it and I have those releases also already.. We shall see,

Think I'm going to try some lake trolls / hammer heads on the bottom for lakers and do a rubber band/fixed on one and free slide on the other with flutter spoons for salmon.. My concern especially there was getting multiple releases to trip when a fish strikes.. I guess the solution is to keep the tension fairly light from the rod to the release and watch the rod tips more. 

I'd rather be fishing then cutting rigs apart all day so wish me luck, lol

Thanks again:

Rich

Rich

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I must be crazy because I run 4 bead chains on my main line so I have 4 fixed and one of the ball it can be a lot of work but it works well when fishing deep

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No crazier than me....I've run my 5 leader thermocline rig from my downrigger in the past :lol:

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Ok, so now I see how some of the boats get the most bites :)

just like ice fishing, you carpet bomb them, lol :lol:

 

cant' wait,  

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I have been doing this in a a local lake  for lakers. I read about it on here. It has been working pretty well. I was wondering how shallow   can you run the ball. I have been setting my rigger at 40 ft and sending the sliders down.

 

Also was wondering when you have to reel up some due to getting shallower, do you have to reset the  setup?

 

Ranks for all the info. Been learning a lot guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I usually send down the slider after I let my weight and main lure down about 15 ft or so. The slider lure often slides upward at the speeds I go. I don't usually use sliders in less than 30-40 ft of water.  I just leave them wherever they are when I raise my weight up. They make the adjustment on their own and usually don't need to be reset.

Edited by Sk8man

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Option #2 -

1.

At least for the release pictured:

If the release attached to the cable has more resistance than the one attached to the mainline, two have to pop otherwise all three would have to release.

I imagine there are other versions where the two releases only connect to the snap and not to each other

Edited by sandyreve

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