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Bayliner water in engine


rlconverse

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Having major water issues with a bayliner Water is coming back thru the exhaust n filling the engine full to the point of hydrolocking. Has anyone else seen this issue? My thoughts lean toward taller risers n elbow for the exhaust The " spec" is 13" above static water level this boat is about 3" Only have 4" till the risers hit the floor Thank you for your input

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I would suspect that the exhaust shutters either rusted off or are stuck open, they are designed to keep the water from doing what it's doing, they are metal coated in rubber flappers that close when no exhaust pressure is blowing against them and close when no pressure is against them depending on the year, 1985 or newer they are located below the riser in the exhaust pipe, mine I had to pull the motor and the Y pipe out to install new ones. If they fail just backing the boat in the water to fast can fill the #7 & 8 cylinder causing a hydro lock and rolling sea's against the transome can also do it. Google exhaust shutters to see what they look like and their functions. I was going to let them out but was quickly told that would be a costly mistake. Good luck.

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I thought of them too but its odd that this boat only has 3 inch at static water level till the water is in the engine. Is it a bayliner defect or just plain poor engineering inwas looking at taller risers and down elbows for if along with new shutters

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I have a Sea Ray and my engine cover is just a little bump in the floor most of the engine is below the floor, I really never took noticed, but my risers are like the other boats I had my risers are like 6"'s above the exhaust manifold I don't know how much above the water line as its a deep floor, my gunnals are up to my waist. Was this always a issue? Or now becoming a issue, what engine is it? I wouldn't think Bayliner would build a misfit, but one never knows.

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What side is getting water if it's pre 1983 other than the shutters the water can pour right into # 8 cylinder if a valve is open, either way being a V8 there is a shutter on each side. I hope for your sake it's newer than 83, if not you'll need to pull the motor and the Y pipe to install new shutters, newer ones are right under the riser in the pipe. Easy job.

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No water issuses on the boat itself engine compartment is dry n clean Water was in most of the 8 cylinders its def coming up thru the exhaust. I whent to take the elbows off the risers loosened the lower clamps and the water level is mod way up the elbow 3 inchs from the bottom of the riser outlet. I know whafs causing the water issue just wanna solve the problem once and for all for the old guy. He says the boat is possessed had it 4 years and only fished it 7 times

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I have a GM V-6 that starts up hard while in the water, but easily on the ears. I suspected I was getting water in the risers because of the shutters. Shutters are good except the rubber coating is worn off.

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Plugged risers too can cause water to back flow.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Or a cracked manifold putting pressure in the water system, basically back flushing the water the opposite direction putting water in #8 cylinder? The mechanic at our hometown, is a Merc. Distributer for the NE PA. And he told me if I didn't put the shutters in the Y pipe I could get water in the motor by simply backing the boat in to fast or having it docked with roller against the transom could do it, so I put new ones in and never had a problem. Why I had taking them out, was one fell to the bottom of the Y pipe causing the exhaust to back up and was choking the port side of the motor, while putting it back together, I put new manifolds on and where the riser bolts on if you look in there it's a strait shot to the exhaust port on the head, so I can plainly see water getting in there if there's nothing holding it back!!

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I say plugged risers, because here in the north we winterize and our motors sit, depending on how one winterized their boat each year, our blocks and exhaust components are highly susceptible to building rust and causing cooling and or exhaust issues due to the rust breaking free in larger pieces and plugging the small orrifices. Risers in my category should fall on a basic PM weather fresh water use or non just to avoid the what ifs.. but like ya said pap, cracked manifolds can do the same. Look what another member of the forum went through recently... cracked heads...

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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