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When is a transom saver bracket needed?


Todd in NY

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My 90hp motor has a flip-up bracket for trailering, and I was told that I didn't need a transom saver bracket when I bought the boat from the previous owner. I use a transom saver for my 15hp kicker/trolling motor because the owners manual for that motor says not to trailer the boat with the motor held up by the tilt bracket.

 

Should I be using a transom saver for my 90hp motor? I don't want to put any unnecessary stress on my 1987 transom because that 90hp motor weighs 300 pounds, but I also don't want to add any additional equipment that isn't needed.

 

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Edited by ballistics04
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On my boat I put a 2x4 block between the motor and the point where it locks with the 2" side against the motor. It keeps the motor at a shallow angle, off the road and costs about 30 cents. I don't have a problem with my kicker and it sits in the down position.

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Anytime your. pulling your boat, I would be using transom saver bracket. They can be a minor pain in the butt, but well worth it!  I use one on my main motor as well as my kicker, (cheap insurance)  Good Luck

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Thanks for all the feedback. Using one makes sense to me because of the weight of the motor and the stress that puts on a transom, especially an old transom (1987 is an old transom in my book). I'd rather be safe than sorry, and I don't like the idea of replacing my transom. I've only trailered this boat twice since buying it, and it's been on my mind both times I traveled down the road with it.

 

Have a safe weekend everyone!

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Just a follow up on this topic... The rear of my trailer is tucked up too far under my boat to reach my main motor in a straight line distance. I will have to fabricate a transom saver with a bend in it to get it to clear the bottom of the boat. The kicker motor looks like it will work with a transom saver. Looks like more winter projects to add to my growing list...

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http://www.boatus.com/magazine/trailering/2012/march/transom-saver.asp

 

answers a lot of your concerns

 

I have a 115HP Johnson on a 19' aluminum boat with a built in "trailering bracket" does not attach to the trailer. Would guess in the past 12 years trailered 20K miles without an issue, plus a 8hp.

Edited by scobar
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Transoms will develop internal cracks because of engines that bounce a bit with every bump in the road. you will not see these cracks until it is too late. A transom saver will take at least part of the bounce load off the transom and convert it to the trailer.  A hundred horse 4 stroke weighs easily 300 pounds or more and it sticks out. dependent on how far it sticks out,300 pounds easily becomes 6 or 9 hundred pounds of non vertical tension on your transom.

There are transom savers that have enough extension capacity to have the trailer up to 2 feet under the boat.

Edited by rolmops
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Even in the Boat US article, there is no definitive conclusion. I don't use one. I have a roller trailer and the nearest trailer cross member is at least 1.5 feet forward of the transom. My motor is 1990 Mercury 75 hp. I just tilt it all the way up. In that position, the balance of the motor weight is leaning toward the front of the boat slightly. So most of the weight is exerted vertically on the transom.

 

As mentioned in the Boat US article, road vibrations can be transferred through a transom saver from the trailer to the motor which can in turn exert stress on the transom. It will depend on how rigid the trailer is and how tight the boat is held to the trailer. It will also depend on how much shock is absorbed by the trailer suspension and tires. The more the trailer flexes, the more energy will be transferred through the transom saver and the motor to the transom.

 

Of course, when trailering, no matter what the setup is, it is always best to slow down for RR tracks and bumpy roads. Trailer suspension just doesn't smooth out the bumps like your vehicle suspension does. Also I found out the hard way that if you have only one roller supporting the front of the boat, you have to strap down the bow to keep from damaging the hull as the boat bounces on the roller. This might be a good idea for any setup.

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As mentioned in the Boat US article, road vibrations can be transferred through a transom saver from the trailer to the motor which can in turn exert stress on the transom. It will depend on how rigid the trailer is and how tight the boat is held to the trailer. It will also depend on how much shock is absorbed by the trailer suspension and tires. The more the trailer flexes, the more energy will be transferred through the transom saver and the motor to the transom.

 

 

This is true only when a transom saver is locked onto the outboard. A good transom saver allows the outboard to rest on the transom saver, thereby allowing the outboard to be supported, but not be jerked up and down at a different rate from the transom

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Thanks again for the opinions and discussion. My main concern with my kicker motor is ground clearance in the highest trailering position. It weighs 80 pounds, but it doesn't tilt up very far in trailering mode. The roads I travel are really good for the most part, and I always slow down for any bumps. We have some hilly terrain around many of our inland lakes, which requires more ground clearance. I have all winter to think about it because I might only get my boat out a few more times before the snow starts falling.

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