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Who uses Outriggers on Lake O?


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Alright - I know a few of you out there have Outriggers on your boats and I've seen a handful of boats out of the Henderson area equipped with Outriggers over the last few years.  I've fished offshore on CC boats rigged with Outriggers so I'm not extremely green on the topic.

 

So who uses them on Lake O and what's your experiences?  Got a bit larger boat and on the fence about installing a new Outrigger setup for certain.

 

Looking at getting TACO Grand Slam 380 Mounts with 18' retractable TACO 1 1/2" aluminum poles.  

 

Before anyone bashes the thought of rigging Outriggers just for Lake O, I plan to eventually use the boat out of Ocean City, MD in June/July each year offshore in the Canyons for Tuna/Marlin/Mahi/Wahoo so I know i'll get great use out of them in that environment.

 

My question is, how much do people really use them in Lake O?  My thought was spreading out a long copper on each side (PP Backer), or running another set of dipsy's out wide (probably won't use wire for this set).  Some days as you all know, it's a bit too choppy to run big boards or even inlines - are these the ideal times when your outriggers come in handy?

 

Any thoughts, experiences, opinions, and comments are welcome.  Thanks guys!

 

Here's the new ride:

 

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Jesus you buy more boats than i do!!! nice ride, you keeping the penn yann, tracker, and this?  my Tiara came with outriggers. i used them for coppers when i was out solo, or during combat fishing when i didnt want to run boards, but still wanted some spread with my long lines. I know some other boats will use them for extra dipsy's if the diver bite is hot. I only ran them probably 3-4 times last season, but they will be getting some use this year, particularly i think on dipsys and slides.  shoot me a text sometime and well discuss.

 

happy new year

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Some boats use outriggers to move dipsys out wider using Aftco roller releases.  During roll-overs when the fish are up high or trolling J-plugs off piers in the fall they can come in handy.  I have no use for them.

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I've had the 15 foot TACO aluminum extention poles for several years now. There are some tips I can give you that will potentially avoid some troubles with the poles and I have had a problem with one of the mounts. First the poles have spring loaded snap out buttons that secure the extention sections in place. That can get misaligned inside the tubes, and are a bit ch to get them to align. Most times they are ok but this has happened on dark mornings and can cause some anxiety! I would lube the sliding parts often, however use something that doesn't wash out with water. In order to avoid trouble with all the extention sections, I only shrink up the first large section for transport on the road.The advantages of that are less to set up and less halyard line to secure up for travel.

The only trouble with the mount I have was the tube that holds the base of the pole broke off at the weld. (ROUGH WATER AND HIGH SPEED CONSTANT VIBRATION)...:D:o It was clean break and easy to fix with a trip to my local welding shop. It is a stainless part.

I have used them mostly for running coppers of any length. Some for getting a wide high dipsey out and run three a side on calm days. Most of all they are great for shallow water long lines in spring or high holding fish. I really never like fishing planner boards just because it's something extra to have to work with in the water. Can't beat maneuver with the outriggers. You can most times turn around pretty quickly to retrieve a stuck lure on the bottom. You can run the rigger high and back so the lines are out of the water far behind close sets off the down riggers avoiding tangles and netting fish. They do shine in rough water.

I love them for long coppers and have the coppers marked every 100 feet with dental floss for attachment points to the blacks release. That way I can run the copper any length out I want. A 600 copper can be set on the floss at 100, 200, 300, 400 or all out on the backing. I like running 32 lb and 45 lb high angle, 11 feet off the surface and back even with stern at the same time and get 2 different planes of travel in the troll to help separation of them. If you like 60 lb copper you can run it in the chute off the stern. I don't recommend using wide dipsey sets with the coppers out the riggers though. A number 1 setting is fine most of the time but never a guarantee of a fish taking it outside the copper. 18 foot poles could be an advantage here?

As for releases, I used the blacks, went to Aftco roller release, then back to blacks again. The roller releases worked fair, but they did not work for copper in direct contact as I would have liked. For dipsey on a wire I don't have any confidence either for the same reason. It breaks the copper eventually and even more so when in rough water. Dipsey on a braid is ok, but I didn't like the adjustable tension of the release, they are tough to guage. I didn't like the dexterity needed to set the line in it, and one of the releases broke loosing the wheel out of it. Back to blacks. The floss on the copper takes the abuse of the contact with the release and not the copper. No more problems with that. The dipsey just runs over the release arm on braid, not wire, and runs out fine that way.

Halyard rigging is important. That kit that Taco sell is just ok...not good or best. The line doesn't last long, the Bungee roller is ok, but the whole thing seems cheap for the price. I used some parachute cord with good results, a bit heavy but works. An adjustable tarp style Bungee cord with the ball on one end really works good for different halyard anchor locations on the gunnel or top using a small loop bracket attached where convenient for your use. I have started looking at sailing cord for the halyard and think that is better than paracord but not yet evaluated it. There are some sailing cords that come in 1.8mm dyneema and seem strong and light enough to do some fishing. Colors too!

If nothing else the riggers are cool to fly flags off of! However I always try to use them since they are there and they need some use to justify the expense, in my book. Some pics may help here and the floss idea is great! Just tie a D loop like your bow string would have for your arrow nock. It won't slip, and you can color it with permanent marker for different distances. I set my floss so when the release is closed on the floss, the copper is in the water surface at the exact length I want it trolling from the contact of the surface. 100 feet, plus the length to the release when 11 feet above the water on the end of the outrigger.

Mark

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skipper - what Taco mounts do you have that broke? Bet that was a wild trip!

The 280 grand slam. I think the basically have the same tube for the base as the 380. The 380 is nice if you can't access the top side easily and safer too in rough water... no climbing the gunnels. Here's a pic of mine that broke...again though, I have a propensity for aerial flight for fun in rough water LOL! half the fun of getting there!post-140268-14515002137028_thumb.jpgpost-140268-1451500235555_thumb.jpg

I tapped it up for the welder to see the correct alignment.

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I've been using outriggers on my Whalers since 1979 but less expensive models both fiberglass and aluminum and there have been times when they have been much preferred over inlines or bigboards. and Mark lined out great details above regarding them.  I have found them to be especially desirable in heavy boat traffic during derbies because they stand out from a distance ( I have taped fluorescent stripes or bands on them for higher visibility) more than either type of board and folks have tended to give me a wider berth than with boards. I do bring the lines in a bit closer though at those times :lol:  They also can be somewhat better during a chop and again visibility to other boats is better than boards. I don't have a hard top so I run mine out of gimbal mounts  with heavy duty outrigger/rod holder mounts toward the rear if fishing solo and by rail mounts at the front of the boat otherwise. I've always used Black  outrigger releases although I've experimented with others including the Aftcos which are more expensive but  I don't think do a better job at least with freshwater setups. I set the Blacks a little different than on downriggers  as I don't loop the line over the arm I just close the arm on the extended line so i can let out or bring in line without bringing things back in. You do have to play with the tension a bit so that it will release OK on fish but not on wave action etc. and set your drag accordingly as well. I usually run smaller dipsey setups off them or longlines in Spring They can also be run with boards outside of them or inside but line lengths have to be adjusted accordingly too. I'd give up my boards before my outriggers at this point although I know some folks don't care to run them. I use parachute cord and heavy duty swivels at connections near the release so I can change out the releases or correct any (very infrequent) tangles.if they should occur. It is handier than having one solid line for releases. Keep in mind when locating and securing the bases that they generate increased and substantial torque the higher up they are placed but you also have increased clearance etc. from the wave action in heavy seas so the bases also have to be substantial and with no "wiggle" or play (braced or supported underneath if necessary).

Edited by Sk8man
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Thanks for all the great info and for your time, Skipper. Great stuff!

I purchased the Grand Slam 380 mounts and 18' Silver/Silver Taco poles today. Looking forward to the installation in the Spring!

You are very welcome! That's a nice addition that you will come to appreciate for convenience and fun! I have been thinking about new poles for mine that are 18 feet. Also would like to get the 380 mounts for the ease of elevation adjustments without the climb. After you get the poles mounted, be sure to figure the best places for anchoring the Bungee and roller for fishing and running as well. I have a couple places around the T top for running attachments depending on the height of my poles. I usually run at speed with them about like the picture of the boat in the driveway, and fish with them either flat out for dipsey or elevated for the coppers and long lines. I also have a spot on my bow rail that serves for anchoring the Bungee and roller to fish with. Most importantly I can think of one more thing about the fishing position and that is to be sure the rigging halyard is made the right length for easy access to your release without leaning out of the boat to reach it and also have enough tension on the Bungee to keep the halyard taught. You could fish with it anchored to the hard top, but it is a reach up, and your rigging is overhead which on a boat of your style with a cabin is not so bad, but on my center console it is in the way for forward movement with a rod in hand, and makes netting a fish difficult with a dipsy rig unless hand lining the leader in. The gunnel mount position is out of the way and does not interfere with most things.

If you have never used a dipsey on a rigger, be sure to line it out above the water on the release and halyard. Like Les pointed out, run it over the arm of the blacks and keep the dipsey out of the water above the surface all the way out to the tip of the rigger pole, then drop it in the water and pay out your preferred counter distance set at zero while at the end of the rigger. If you drop the diver in before running it out you will have too much drag on the halyard to run it out. You just let the fishing line run over the arm of the blacks. Les was right on about the set of the release, and you just set your drag like normal just a little more than what will creep out of the reel. Turns will need some more drag as there is significantly more speed gain on the outside pole of the turn, and opposit that on the inside, nearly a stall, so a turn is a little more delicate with the dipsey rigs. I use Fireline fused original 30 lb to run over the blacks arm without trouble, and it is very flea resistant.

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FleetTracker good luck with the new ride. I've been admiring that boat since it went up for sale. I wish I was in the market cause it was a great value. Just saw it again this AM. I live 1/4 mi from where it is now.

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skipper19

Mark looks like you have some roof repair to do before summer comes

Yeah I know...my boat is kind of open on top..

:unsure:

The shop is vintage late 1800..there's trees for rafters in there. Someone skidded of the road and went through the side corner a year ago. It's pretty tough, but yeah, needs a roof all the way. Maybe cheaper to install a nice new garage with a door high enough to get inside with the boat and the KW....BRING YOUR NAIL GUN! :lol:

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Mark living next to a golf course I now understand why you have no time to repair that roof ..............Guess I will not be coming out I don't own a Nail gun, just an old hammer.

Golf course :huh:...I only usually see one guy out there in a big 30,000 lb 8 wheel drive cart! He sure ruins a lot of fairways in an hour! :lol:..maybe I should ask him to turn over my garage into a new one >_>..seems after he goes around for a while new stuff pops right back up!..:blink:
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Where did you find your outriggers the only one's I can find are for deep sea fishing

Most big store marine rigging supplies have them or can get them.

They work the same for salt or fresh water. Just need to find a set that works for your size boat. They range from 15 foot to over 30 foot. The TACO brand that we talked about here, is a nice easy fit, mine 15 foot, FleetTracker has 18 foot, easy removal poles that can telescope out sections to full length. Most of these type are the 15 to 18 foot range. The longer they get the more truss and gusset sections are used for rigidity as on most larger boats of 30 feet or more.

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Billy the main outriggers that I'm familiar with are Tigress and Taco. Dotline made the lighter weight fiberglass and the aluminum ones for about $180 and the Tigress and Tacos start at about $300 and I think that s for the 15 ft. fiberglass ones. Some of these things for salt water offshore use go into the thousands and have pretty elaborate setups anchoring them so they can be run upright when under way etc. There is no comparison quality wise whatsoever between the first two and the Dotlines whether in the poles or the bases (holders)

Edited by Sk8man
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