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transom rebuild


sr1bearcreek

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I have a 1997 aluminum lund I'm planning on replacing the wood in the transom, once motor is removed and all screws and bolts taken out does anyone have any advice on removing the old wood between panels. I'm sure the old wood is not going to come out very easy most likely in pieces any advice will be helpful Thanks.

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Believe it or not and I know this sounds crazy but a chain saw works wonders. I used a small electric one on my project. This was what I found to use in researching myself. Stay away from the sides obviously. Use it going back and forth vacuuming as you go. Once you get about half way she'll pull right out.

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Take Froggers advice. I have personally seen the results of his efforts and his boat looks/feels almost brand new. Whatever he did was pretty amazing to me and looked highly professional.

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Unless it is impossible to salvage at least some of it you may want to try and get it out as complete as possible and piece it back together while laying on a piece of cardboard. It will help you get the proper measurements for the new transom

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Never Imagined I would be able to get it out in one piece I'm not sure what I'm going to find I know its soft and in need of replacement but I don't think it's going to be mush, one piece would be the ticket if not chain saw just might work. Also when it comes time to put new wood back 2 pieces 3/4 ply will fit gap perfect should I use marine grade or pressure treated? Thanks for the responses help is really appreciated.

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Thanks Les, SR, along with great info on here, I would take a look at topics on Hull Truth, you'll find a ton of info on it, for instance, it's recommended to use exterior plywood with a resin, the treated wood has copper components that create corrosion to the aluminûm. Here's what rot looked like on mine. In the end there was no way it was coming out in one piece. You'll have to decide how long your investment needs to last on how much you put into it. It can add up quickly but you'll know it's done right. I would tell you it's a lot of time but it's not difficult time, it's really straight forward and not too difficult, just time. Let me know if you need any info.

post-150509-14516005119947_thumb.jpgpost-150509-14516005532548_thumb.jpg

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Can you produce a picture showing how much room you have at the bottom of the transom?

There are some tricks that involve PUSHING the transom up from the bottom instead of pulling it up from the top.

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Frogger,

Those pictures brought back memories (nightmares) of the start of my Penn Yan project :shake: . I'll second or third using the Hulltruth - some of the ocean guys really torture their boats and have tested their repairs under much worse conditions then our boats will ever see.

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Be careful with the wood you are going to use:

Aluminum is especially vulnerable to corrosion when in contact with copper-rich lumber. That's why it's essential to use copper flashing anywhere near pressure-treated wood.

 

http://www.canada.co...f1-97cf362d841d

 

http://www.oaa.on.ca...ated wood alert

 

http://www.naturalha...tra/infpre.html

There is some pics from a work that a guy did on a Lund 
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Be careful with the wood you are going to use:

Aluminum is especially vulnerable to corrosion when in contact with copper-rich lumber. That's why it's essential to use copper flashing anywhere near pressure-treated wood.

 

http://www.canada.co...f1-97cf362d841d

 

http://www.oaa.on.ca...ated wood alert

 

http://www.naturalha...tra/infpre.html

 
 

 

Very good point!

DO NOT EVER USE PRESSURE TREATED PLYWOOD IN DIRECT CONTACT WITH ALUMINUM! 

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Check the Iboats forum for info. I used that site like crazy when I stripes my sylvan done to hull and built it back again. There is a great tin boat section with everything from complete rebuilds to just transoms. I was able to get mine out in three pieces by prying back and worth slowly working in up. Getting it out in one piece is ideal because you can the use it as a template for the new one. I recommend marine grade ply coated with west systems two part epoxy. Best of luck and fear not its not to bad.

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Those pictures really show how to do it and what not to do. Please do not let the drawstring of your hoody get anywhere close to a sawsall. It might get you killed

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JimB- on my sylvan I could push on my outboard and the back of the boat would flex inward. Sometimes you can see a portion of the wood, if that's the case take a screw driver and if it penetrates the wood, you need to replace it. Also if you are installing a fish finder or other transom mounted accessory and drill out wet rotten wood it is likely time to replace. I am sure there are other ways as well b

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  • 2 weeks later...

All done with the rebuild it was a total success, not a bad job at all the hardest part was getting the old wood out did not come in one piece, had to pry rip and tear the electric chain saw was a great idea did a lot with that. Once we got all the old wood out a little bit of a job fitting new wood with no templet to follow but we had enough big pieces we removed to get a start. Thanks for everyone's response you all were a big help.post-157652-0-09116100-1453132878_thumb.jpgpost-157652-0-86761000-1453132912_thumb.jpgpost-157652-0-20903400-1453132940_thumb.jpgpost-157652-0-29855800-1453133000_thumb.jpgpost-157652-0-77935900-1453133043_thumb.jpg

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