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What is "mupped"?


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Oh, I see. Kinda like when you have a slider fixed with a rubber band a few feet above the release.

I thought maybe it was kinda like "fupped".

Thanks Ray.

JAM

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Jammer -

One way to remember it is "Mag" + "up" = "mupped"

It's simply a fixed cheater above your main lure, where the higher lure is typically a larger spoon (Mag spoon) with a shorter lead, compared with the deeper spoon which is smaller and further back. I believe the priniciple behind this is the fish thinks the smaller lure further back is an easier target, wounded, out of the pack, etc.

Hope this helps

- Chris

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just to add on to what momay was saying........

i run this rig alot on my boat (almost always with less than six rods in the water). typically i run it deeper than 50' down. i believe it will out produce a single spoon at the same depth any day of the week. dont be afraid to run the same size spoons or to reverse the setup (big on bottom, small on top).

at the niagara proam we actually double up on the mupped rod (21# and 8# king, talk about fun, try 2 kings on the same rod)

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Wow Rob, that must have been fun. I've had that happen a couple times over the years on steelhead (on both the mail lure and a free slider) but never kings. It's wild watching steelies jump like crazy during a fight and realizing you are watching two different fish jump.

Tim

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tim,

on saturday, the first day of the niagara proam, it was the first thing to fire. i actually reeled it in all the way to the liberator and saw the 8# on the line and said wow hes tough fish and then all hell broke loose., great way to start the day and put them both in the cooler.

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Rob,

How do you connect the mag leader to your main line (rubberband?) When I run a mup set I use two rods and a roemer release on the DR cable...Do you rig it like a slider and use a rubberband to hold the leader at the desired height above the ball?

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DB -

I don't want to steal Rob's thunder, but when we do it:

1.) We attach the main line with the smaller spoon through the rigger release and set it 10-20 feet back from the ball

2.) We let it down between six and ten feet

3.) We attach the 6' Mag leader to the main line with a Sampo coastlock swivel (simply attach it to the mono line) and then make two half hitches with a #12 rubber band on the main line near the swivel to form a loop and clip that inside the coast lock as well. MAKE SURE you clip your swivel from the Mag leader to the main line and not just the rubber band or after a hit you can kiss your lure and leader good-bye.

The purpose of the rubber band is simply to prevent the fixed cheater from sliding down the line when you set it up. By doing it this way, you can effectively use only one rod to run the Mup rig. Otherwise, if you attach your fixed slider to your down rigger cable, you need two rods.

Hope this helps -

Chris

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I have tried rubber bands so many times I could spit. I have tried different length leaders, lure sizes, distance between lures, leader sizes and drop speeds, and no matter what I do they come up 10 minutes later so helicoptered around each other I know it has been spinning around the main line for 10 minutes. I have finally just decided it may be something about the way my boat and set-ups run through the water?

Anybody have any thoughts that might help me? I have seen how deadly this set up can be on some days.

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gambler,

typically i use 30# big game and good swivels on both ends of my leaders (one to the spoon and one to the roemer) and have never experienced line twist. i really dont understand how you could get line twist.

just fishing,

you definetely need to increase the distance between rigs.i use an 8' leader for my cheater and about 8'-12' separation between them.

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I agree with Legacy - keep good separation and use GOOD QUALITY ball bearing swivels (we use Sampo).

That being said, it's also very important to keep good tension on your rod and the main line when letting down your rigger to help minimize blow back of the main line during descent. I don't even let "rookies" on my boat set the riggers anymore because they seem to tangle everything up and 9 times out of ten it's from blow back and failure to keep the rod tip at the water. (this also helps with hook ups out of your hand when you're dropping your riggers). This is critically important when you have FIXED cheaters.

It sounds like you know what you're doing so maybe that's not the issue, but since we eliminated blow back on our riggers when sending them down, we've had very, very few tangles on these lines.

Good luck,

-Chris

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What's up Guys? Just one question. Are there any advantages of using the "add a line" style cheater versus a rubberband? Or are they equal in nature? I used cheaters alot last summer and really liked them. I was using fixed cheaters with rubber bands. Thanks, Tank

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tank,

i have never used the add-a-line style but the seem like they would be a pain to rig.

i used to use the rubber band style until i found the roemer liberators. i think they cost about $7.00 so if you dont like them you really havent invested much into them.

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My go to mupp presentation has been 42 nd spoons(mag alum flash spoon with 28 below it-low light conditions and clear water).

Mupped fishlander glo easter eggs were hot(sizzlin) for me in July last season in the green water.

I use a 12 ft lead for the target spoon from the ball release,lower ball 7 ft,then add the 6 ft fixed slider/larger attracter spoon.

I use the Stingease Super Stakr stacker_open.jpg for fixed sliders/mupp rigs.

When your marking streakers coming up to your riggers,get a mupp down there. 8)8)

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I have tried rubber bands so many times I could spit. I have tried different length leaders, lure sizes, distance between lures, leader sizes and drop speeds, and no matter what I do they come up 10 minutes later so helicoptered around each other I know it has been spinning around the main line for 10 minutes. I have finally just decided it may be something about the way my boat and set-ups run through the water?

Anybody have any thoughts that might help me? I have seen how deadly this set up can be on some days.

Just Fishing,

I bet your slider is wrapping after you release the main line and is running fine until then. You could try my method which is to use a small crosslok on the slider line and attach it to the mail line without a rubber band. Then take a rubber band and simply use it like a bobber stop by attaching it to the main line ONLY above the slider. That's all that is needed to stop the slider from working its way up the line. People find it hard to believe but I get good hookups that way - probably due to the tension at a decent speed. One rubber band lasts all day and serves as a marker on your main line when resetting. No more tangles.

Bill

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Thanks, I'll try the suggestions. At first I was definitely putting them down too quick. Then made sure I put good tension on it instead of just throwing it over and then lowering line. I'll keep trying.

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When I found this forum (and went out on another boat for some recon) I learned about cheaters. Obviously, this is a much better way to run this rig because the 2 poles I used to "stack" I can now use for wires, top lines, sliders, etc. One thing I did once was run a cheater with a flasher/fly on the bottom....DUMB. When I reeled in they were all twisted. But it is pretty fun when the cheater releases and takes up the slack in the line. I am definitly going to have to try the rubber bands.

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