Planer board spread question

[tj13825]

So I have a some questions regarding my line spread with big boards. For years I had always run a 6 rod spread (3 on each side) with the longest and shallowest line being the furthest from the boat and then each line progressively shorter and deeper So say 120' 100' and 80' on one side and then 130' 110' and 90' on the other side. This usually helped with reducing tangles when a fish hit allowing it to fall back behind the inside line. I ran this way for years but as you can imagine if the fish like a certain distance back I only had 1 lure in the "zone"

 

Last year I went on several charters with buddies to catch up and just have some fun. I asked several questions and one of the things the captain shared was he sets all lines on one side at say 120' back and all lines on the other side 140' back. This way it is easier to repeat and mimics a school of bait. Made sense and really just being patient to allow the fish to "fall back" and not reel too early or fast allowed the lines to clear. I used this pattern the remainder of the season with some success.

 

Last season all my lines were just mono with only the lure and a couple of split shot to vary my depth trying to keep the "V" depth pattern. This year I have added some short core rods 2 each 2 core and 2 each 3 core. So I now am questioning which is the best or easiest way to set up the spread. Should I run a mono rod out furthest from the boat then a 2 color then the 3 color all the same length out.  Or should I run a mono line out first and then a both 2 cores on one side and a mono line and both 3 colors on the other side. This would seem to be easier to get the set back distance as I could just clip the release to the mono after the lead. BTW each core rig has 30' of flouro so the 2 color would be out 90' and the 3 color 120'. Obviously I would adjust lengths to what the fish are telling me.

 

Thanks

 

Terry

 

 

[TileMan Dan]

Mono first, 2 color, then 3 color on inside

[Chas0218]

If I were to run lead in my spread I would use inlines. I like to run all my baits the same distance back on my big boards and run up to 5 per a side at times. I only stagger my lines when locating fish, once I find the set back they want they all go to the same.

 

Inline boards can be setup so you let out your set back (2 colors for instance) then attach board, let out line so there is no tension on the line then when it looks like the board is at the right distance stop the line and adjust letting it out or pull some in. You will need to be careful tho using leadcore and it sinking you could get it hung up on the bottom before you get the board back where it is supposed to be.

[guffins fisherman]

I am planning on running some lead core this year. I am wondering if the sharp bend at the line clip on my Church inlines is too sharp and will damage the lead.

[Thun]

I find that if I use the same length of line and leader on each side of the boat, the angle of the towline puts the farthest line out further back than the line inside it and so on. Then after a hook-up there's no need to reset all the lines, simply slide the other lines down and set the line that hooked up closest to the boat.

Edited March 24, 2016 by Thun

[Chas0218]

I am planning on running some lead core this year. I am wondering if the sharp bend at the line clip on my Church inlines is too sharp and will damage the lead.

From what I understand you want to get the clips that open towards the board instead of away from it and you should be fine.

 

On a side note I got to thinking about the leadcore question earlier. Why not run 3 leadcore rods on one side of the boat and regular lines on the opposite it would make it a lot easier resetting lines not worrying about the non-lead lines getting into the leadcore.

 

Also can I ask what you are running on the lead in the spring?

Edited March 24, 2016 by Chas0218

[TyeeTanic]

Mono first, 2 color, then 3 color on inside

 

Yes. You want your highest line to the outside so when a fish hits it goes over your deeper lines. If you have a deeper line on the outside it will cross your shallow line once a fish hits and draws the line to the center of your spread.

 

Only thing is the 2 color and 3 color have the same sink rate, so they are basically at the same angle. Normally when a fish hits it will go up and to the center of the boat. So the 2 color might clear the 3 color better if it is in between the mono and 3 color.  Not sure on this one.

 

Ideally you want 3 lines with different sink rates, with the deepest sink rate on the inside.

[flybuster]

Everyone's rite on with what goes where one thing to think about tho is with big boards is when your outside mono rod gets hit how do you reset it. Like Chas mentioned that type of spread would benefit from inlines you can send it way down the chute before you engage it and let it pull to the outside. And I also run the same leader lengths off the boards for that reason you just slide the next rod out farther and so on. Thun already mentioned the angle on the mast line so good luck out there!

[tj13825]

Lots of great input here already. So far I figure that I can stagger my lines like I have always done with the out side line being the longest and shallowest. Then once the fish start firing all of the lines can be dialed in to that length on that side.

 

As far as spread Mono, 2 core, then 3 core is what I figured keeping the lines progressively deeper as they get closer to the boat. I know that the inlines would allow resetting a mono line to the outside easy but I figure I can either slide the 2 core and 3 core down and then run a dive bomb on the mono line on the inside to make sure it is deeper then the 3 core. If the water depth or fish don't allow then reeling in two lines is not that big of a deal to get the spread back out.

 

Tyee Tanic I do have a question about the 2 and 3 color sink rates statement you made. If I understand lead core (first year with it) each color sinks about 5' (using 27lb core) . So the mono line will dive whatever depth the spoon/stick bait takes it, the 2 color should be 10' + the lure depth, and the 3 color should be 15' + the lure depth. Do I have this right? If so why would the 2 color have a problem clearing the 3 color givin the fish does not dive or go crazy, in that situation even a 4 or 5 color could be in jeopardy. 

 

I also ordered a wide variety of dive bombs ranging from 1oz to 6oz to use on the LC as the fish move out during the warmer months. Are there any "typical" go to combinations using the 2 and 3 color lead core set ups? Example Mono with a 2oz =16'  / 2 color with a 1oz = 18'  / 3 color with a 1 oz =23' would I be running these too close in depth would a spread of Mono with 1oz =8' / 2 color with 1oz = 18'  / and 3 color 2oz = 31'?

 

Thanks again

 

Terry

[Buckmaster7600]

I always start with my flat lines on the outside and my short cores and coppers inside of that and have never had a big problem I think an occasional tangle is inevitable but I don't worry to much about them, these tangles don't compare to a wire dipsey with a spinny finding a 400' copper.

[FleetTracker]

During short core season I'll run a 3,4,5,6 color core on each side of the boat. Never had a tangle once. Keep the deepest stuff on the inside and You'll be fine.

Edited March 24, 2016 by FleetTracker

[justtracytrolling]

Lots of great input here already. So far I figure that I can stagger my lines like I have always done with the out side line being the longest and shallowest. Then once the fish start firing all of the lines can be dialed in to that length on that side.

As far as spread Mono, 2 core, then 3 core is what I figured keeping the lines progressively deeper as they get closer to the boat. I know that the inlines would allow resetting a mono line to the outside easy but I figure I can either slide the 2 core and 3 core down and then run a dive bomb on the mono line on the inside to make sure it is deeper then the 3 core. If the water depth or fish don't allow then reeling in two lines is not that big of a deal to get the spread back out.

Tyee Tanic I do have a question about the 2 and 3 color sink rates statement you made. If I understand lead core (first year with it) each color sinks about 5' (using 27lb core) . So the mono line will dive whatever depth the spoon/stick bait takes it, the 2 color should be 10' + the lure depth, and the 3 color should be 15' + the lure depth. Do I have this right? If so why would the 2 color have a problem clearing the 3 color givin the fish does not dive or go crazy, in that situation even a 4 or 5 color could be in jeopardy.

I also ordered a wide variety of dive bombs ranging from 1oz to 6oz to use on the LC as the fish move out during the warmer months. Are there any "typical" go to combinations using the 2 and 3 color lead core set ups? Example Mono with a 2oz =16' / 2 color with a 1oz = 18' / 3 color with a 1 oz =23' would I be running these too close in depth would a spread of Mono with 1oz =8' / 2 color with 1oz = 18' / and 3 color 2oz = 31'?

Thanks again

Terry

Lead core is highly speed dependant. This is fine on suspended fish that will travel a distance up to feed, or where you have enough column not to hang up. Just dont want you thinking a 3 color will be AT 15' all day then go try to troll tight structure somewhere and find out the hard way that there is a significant rising and falling action to lead core...its not a precise method though very effective when used for the right application. BTW all negatively buoyant systems are very speed dependant. Edited March 24, 2016 by justtracytrolling

[Big Water]

Lead core is highly speed dependant. This is fine on suspended fish that will travel a distance up to feed, or where you have enough column not to hang up. Just dont want you thinking a 3 color will be AT 15' all day then go try to troll tight structure somewhere and find out the hard way that there is a significant rising and falling action to lead core...its not a precise method though very effective when used for the right application. BTW all negatively buoyant systems are very speed dependant.

Exactly. Just add shot to mono when you're in tight. That lead will drop like a rock on the inside on turns. 7-20' FOW in spring and you don't need lead core.

[justtracytrolling]

At least know what to expect....

[ifishy]

for a 6 rod spread i like 2 monos on each board than i run the lead off the corners easy to clear if needed easy to reset easy to lift the tip in a hurry if you creep a little shallow and less extream of a speed effect on turns. you can get in fairly tight with this spread and be realitively manuverable.  I catch lots of browns off the corners with the lead so I dont think its too close to the boat.  I also troll with a 4 stroke kicker so i dont put out a lot of noise.  if all your hits are on the lead than you can run multiples of the same leangth per board.  resetting one extra line seems easy but after a few times it gets old quick espicially if you run out of releases and have to bring the board in to get them back

[final flight]

I stagger my first set , 140 back. Furthest out , 120 out then 100 out, what ever rod takes the first fish, every thing on that side goes to that set back. This works well for me . A rod goes the other 2 or 3 get run down the line to fill in the slot that just took the fish. BUT ...... There are days when every other fish will tangle in another line, I not sure if they charge the boat, there's a heavy current, or there just real spunky that day but it does happen a couple times a year. I normally run a split shot just above the swivel that connects my floro to main line. Heading up Sat. Will let you know how we do !!

[tj13825]

This all great advice helping me to avoid some of the pitfalls that I usually have to learn the hard way.

I plan to run an 8 rod spread one on each rigger and I will run 6 mono lines on the big boards until the fish move out to utilize the 2&3 core set ups. So I know there are a lot of variables at play (speed, current, turning radius, etc) when trying to avoid having the lead drop like a brick and get hung up but what kind of minimum depth of water should I target when starting to run the 2&3 color set ups. Earlier I read it is not used until in water greater than 20' deep.

[FleetTracker]

One of the reasons setting up big board lines at the same length (i.e. 120ft) on the same side works is due to 2 factors:

1- the planer board tow line is at an angle as it leaves the boat toward the board. Even though all lines may be at 120ft back, they are attached to the same tow line and there are slight distances from eachother purely due to that angle. By way of design, the furthest rod out is already slightly further back then the rest. Yes!

2- line slack between the release and rod. Your furthest rod out has the most line out and when a fish pops the release all of that slack falls back significantly further then the rest, allowing it to swing to the inside. Yes!!