Off Shore inline customizing

[greenboatluke]

I read somewhere (I thought here, can't find it...) that someone put a split ring on the front clip of their inlines, in place of the screw.

My thinking is that having play in the front, will allow the nose of the board to sit lower in the water by overcoming a steep line angle to the board and cause it to side plane a little better.

Anybody customize this way? Or agree/disagree with my thinking?

Edited May 7, 2016 by greenboatluke

[Gill-T]

There are a whole series of tweaks that will make the boards work better for salmon fishing.  Go to Bloodruntackle.com and check out their blog on inline adjustments.

[greenboatluke]

Cool. Thanks Gill. Maybe that's where I read it.

[Mupere]

Never thought of doing that. Mine are set up like this, front clip is a church front clip, back is the red offshore clip, on a swivel, with a small split ring connected to the eye screw.

[greenboatluke]

I rigged mine with a DIY tattle flag, with an orange OS release on the front and red OS on the back. I'm gonna try a split ring on a set and see...

[Mupere]

I have tattle flags too. The swivel is a nice easy add on. Its nice when removing the board with a fish on

[Mupere]

I have tattle flags too. The swivel is a nice easy add on. Its nice when removing the board with a fish on

[J.D.]

I have changed my Church Walleye boards to this setup.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eIdZWT1-CA

[DJ 17]

I cut the weight in half and stacked it in the front of the board, and they plane out to the side better in my opinion. I also bent the front arm up.  Tried the same fix with my TX44s and it was a disaster.

[Gill-T]

I am not sure why bending the tow arm up would help the board plane better?  If the problem is the heavier junk lines pulls the rear down and the front up reducing planing drag then it would seem to me you would want to do move the front tow location down and forward to keep the nose in the water?  I use otter boards and prior to buying the 1/2 keel, Big Jon told me if I move the tow line down lower on the board edge it would pull harder.  I am not about to run out and buy some inlines to prove my point but it seems a little counterintuitive.

[greenboatluke]

I think bending the tow arm is an attempt to match the line angle to the rod, allowing the nose to not be pulled up by the tow line.

I'm gonna put a split ring on a pair this weekend and see if the "play" in it will do anything to the orientation or pull of the boards. And will report the findings.

[DJ 17]

I got it form either the blood run or Anglers avenue site, can't remember which.  Their thought being that it helps to keep the line from the rod to the board out of the water better, thus reducing drag.

[greenboatluke]

So the split ring caused the board to pull less out to the side. Did not work the way I thought. Took them off after a few trolls in both calm water and chop.

[Sk8man]

A year or two ago I tried the recommended stuff on my TX 44's (bending the tow arm etc.) and it sucked and I didn't think it did anything to improve the way the boards worked so I returned to the standard setup and tried slight adjustments on the weights themselves and got them to work pretty well but I don't release the boards with the releases either I manually release them on the way in and crank the screws down very tight (carefully) and set the line way back as far as it will go so it doesn't release. I think it takes some experimenting with different weight positions on the Walleye boards specifically for what you are running to get it right.

Edited May 18, 2016 by Sk8man