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Fluoro


Frisco

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I almost hate to bring this up but here goes....honestly what are your thoughts on just how more productive is using fluoro on leaders over mono for trolling. I'm given up  on fluoro mainly because I've donated way too much gear to the depths because of damage/knots etc.

 

I've switched back to Big Game and haven't really noticed a difference. Maybe it's me or is it one of those things that catches fishermen. 

 

I'm curious to hear what the other finger Lake guys have to say?

 

Let it fly guys!

 

Ken

 

 

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I've allways used Seaguer fluro and haven't had a problem with both kings and fishing the finger lakes. Don't know if it's a brand thing or not. I only use uni knot for every thing from terminal connection to splicing lines never recall the knot failing.

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For what you do abrasion isn't a huge concern, you catch fish, and are saving money I wouldn't worry. Now troll structure where zebras are present or where Mr toothy is present or kings and I think flouro is THE play. Oh and it's the new seaguar premier for me in a wide range of tests based on use unless I'm targeting just tigers then the blue label is my choice as the slightly thicker diameter is useful.

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I'll bite on it Frisco :)

 

I've used both for a long time and perhaps the most important thing for me has been the quality issues with some brands of fluoro. Ive tried nearly every common brand (but not the really high end stuff) and ended up using Seaguar red label 6-20 lb for most Finger lakes stuff and Blue label leader 12- 20 lb stuff (time of year) for the Lake O and it has performed fine for me with spoons and sticks.  I tried Vanish and Vicious early on and like you I had break-offs mostly just before or on the knot despite cinching down tightly wet etc. I came to the conclusion that most of the the cheaper stuff is garbage especially Vanish. I have used Big Game mono for years as well as its predecessor back in the early eighties Hombre which was basically the salt water version having a tough coating for my wire dipsey stuff . I have never had a snap off with it. My downrigger main lines are SeaFlee 30 lb because of the fleas but I have separate setups with 12 lb Big Game for Pre and post Flea season and leader off of it with fluoro. I used to use the commercial flies tied with fluoro but switched a few years ago to 50 lb Big Game and tie my own flies because of big fish snap offs with the fluoro tied flies again usually right at the knot which looked like the fluoro cut into itself there. I use 10 and 12 lb test fluoro on my Seth Green rigs because the line is a little stiffer and seems to give a little better action to the spoons. In short both mono and fluoro have their place in the arsenal.

Edited by Sk8man
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It double posted. I'll add that I believe the "invisibility" claims are mostly marketing ploys or hype but smaller line diameter may be a factor in whether seen well or not.

Edited by Sk8man
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Huge!! It's definitely an advantage.. Seaguar 12 or 15 lb for leaders I highly recommend.. In any kind of fishing or hunting for that matter I don't care what it is but the more stealthy the presentation the better.. Small snaps and swivels that don't give up to much action of the lure will make a big difference as well..

Mike

Sent from my SM-N910V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Edited by Iron Duke
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Huge!! It's definitely an advantage.. Seaguar 12 or 15 lb for leaders I highly recommend.. In any kind of fishing or hunting for that matter I don't care what it is but the more stealthy the presentation the better.. Small snaps and swivels that don't give up to much action of the lure will make a big difference as well..

Mike

X2 especially on lead cores

Sent from my SM-N910V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Mike brings up a great point about the swivel snaps.  The smaller the better but ball bearing swivels and solid ring NOT split ring. The split rings can allow the knot to slip into the crevice which has a sharp edge and especially with big heavy fish  and pressure put on them can sever the line whether mono or fluoro. I usually either replace the existing snaps with stronger duo lock snaps or buy ones without the snap part and add them. The duo locks have a nice rounded surface that gives good action to the lures whether sticks or spoons.

Edited by Sk8man
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I use a lot of fluoro now for leaders and bass fishing. It's great for being a little more stiff and abrasion resistant than mono but, as stated above, quality of the line is very important. I tried the cheap stuff in the beginning and would just have break offs and find the line all separated and frayed.

I'm using Sunline for bass and Seagar for salmon now and it's a night and day difference from the cheap stuff. Twice the price but save a lot of money in lost gear.

And if you're looking for small snaps that give more action check out the new VMC Crankbait Snaps. I'm not endorsing them because I just got my first pack and haven't used them yet. The concept seems good though.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

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Got to be just a knot/line issue, I run fluoro on everything. From 10 pounds to 50. I had my first fish of the year break off on Ontario a couple weeks ago and that was on a 300 copper with a big church board that got dragged under with the drag set to tight. I never have a knot failure unless I let someone else tie them LOL. I run 10 to 15 for spoons on Finger lakes primarily 12lb then 12 to 20 up north. I've caught some big kings on 12 lb fluorocarbon rigger rods. I think it makes a difference in just the minimum amount of line stretch you get from fluorocarbon. You could bungee jump with 30 or 40 pound mono, which is why I always put ten ft of 40 pound mono between my core/copper and the backing. Sean

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I use Seaguar leader because it is more abrasion resistant . Most fish (not all) could care less about seeing the line. When I grew up we pulled copper with a Pflueger Record spoon tie straight to it and we caught fish. If the fish isn't bothered by a piece of tin or plastic with a big hook on it why should they care about line. Vanish floro is garbage, I had some 12lb that would break in my hand tying knots.

Sent from my Lenovo TAB S8-50F using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Sent from my Lenovo TAB S8-50F using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Twice this year upon boating a King on Ontario and recheck my fluoro fly leader, I noticed my cinch knot had slipped to the point I was lucky I didn't loose the fish.  The tag end of knot was pulled flush to the main knot.  I think the stiffer nature of fluoro causes relaxation in the cinching over time where mono really cranks down on itself comparatively.  Now these were knots that may have been tied two years ago so it might be good practice to either retie over time/usage or at least grab a pair of pliers, wet the knot and pull the tag end to retighten fluoro periodically.  

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you will never have a problem with fluorocarbon as long as you use the 100% fluorocarbon and wet the line good before you clinch your knot tight. I think the fluorocarbon has more friction when you cinch your knot tight which can weaken it.

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i have fished for everything from smelts to giant blue fin tuna i wouldnt fish without floro leader i have done my own testing on it with clear water  fish in a chum line behind the boat and floro will out fish mono 10 to 1 plus floro will not brake if nicked as easily as mono .

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one more thing always use fresh leaders the sun and water will stain your floro leader and in clear water the fish can see it i caught like 15 stripers well chunk bait fishing in a chum line my buddy never had a bight until i made him put a new floro leader on then he started catching right away fish have great eyes .

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