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Mercruiser 120 specs 1964- 72 Gm

FishingTheFL

FishingTheFL
in This Old Boat

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FishingTheFL

FishingTheFL

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Said it sounded lower. I looked up the piston bearings, their not to bad, I already have the oil pan gasket. I was going to price the parts out. I basically have everything on it brand new. The motor is pretty easy to get out. I don't know what the work is involved but I'm so far into it and the hull don't leak... Needs a floor.

Besides the shim I guess there is bearings that go on the cam that I didn't know about, those needed to be replaced, so got to price those... I hate to keep dumping money into something so old but I already got a grand into it plus labor...

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On a bright note a inboard is the cheapest fix as for a motor, rods and mains are easy, but cam bearing, need a special tool to install, how did you come up with need to replace cam bearings?

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lakebound88

lakebound88

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Pap, the old cam is pretty scored, mainly where the two lobes were wore down. The fuel pump wore a nice groove in the came lobe here as well. There is heavy pitting on the cam, in machined areas that shouldn't be there. If I was to install a new cam, I would definitely do bearings. The knock sounds low, more like a rod bearing... really solid knock at that. It will run, but the idle just can't get low enough, the motors really struggling. It could be a wrist pin, but the only way to tell is to pull that pan off and check.. he did mention a bad head gasket between two and three cyclinders. I'm thinking this could be where the bad bearing is located.

Keep us posted mike.

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Pap, the old cam is pretty scored, mainly where the two lobes were wore down. The fuel pump wore a nice groove in the came lobe here as well. There is heavy pitting on the cam, in machined areas that shouldn't be there. If I was to install a new cam, I would definitely do bearings. The knock sounds low, more like a rod bearing... really solid knock at that. It will run, but the idle just can't get low enough, the motors really struggling. It could be a wrist pin, but the only way to tell is to pull that pan off and check.. he did mention a bad head gasket between two and three cyclinders. I'm thinking this could be where the bad bearing is located.

Keep us posted mike.

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Holy shyt!! Yea that's a no brainer, I'm starting to feel for the poor sole, might as well pull the whole damn works and do it right!! Those 4 bangers are a cheap fix compared to the newer stuff out there, that's for sure, hopefully if there's only a slight ridge in the cylinders, using a ridge cutter and a good honing with the stone and then a cross hatch hone, all you'll need is rod & main bearings, might as well put a oil pump in also, I'd say 5 bills if that and he'll have a nice piece of iron, oh yea i forgot about the heads, but you can usually tell with old eyeball LOL. That usually is a few extra $$$. Are you going to help him?? Good luck guys!!

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FishingTheFL

FishingTheFL

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If I can keep the bill right around $1000... I'll end up spending the money but work is slowing up for the year. Unless we get a big logging job, I'm probably just going to winterize at put it up. I'm might go anchor up in front of Dean's cove to catch some gils for a fish fry but other then that... Its stream season again. Wednesday Thursday Friday is calling for rain.

Looked up honing the piston and walls... Doesn't look to bad.

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Edited by FishingTheFL
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If you can't borrow the tooling or if someone doesn't do it for you look into renting the tools, I know advance auto lends out tools, maybe you guys have something like that up there? Or a rental place that carries other things like chippers ect. They sometimes have a lot of stuff that you don't see, hey ask that never hurt anyone, it's a shame it's so far away I'd do it for ya, you just supply the parts. LOL

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Shellback

Shellback

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Pitting on the cam surfaces doesn't sound good. Add in the engine knock and the motor must have had some serious lubrication problems. More than likely, the crankshaft surfaces are also damaged with the knock. Might better get a price on a reground crank and bearings, cam bearings, and a set of rings.Hopefully the cylinders and pistons are good. That 4 banger motor is about as simple as you can get. I think the OP got some bad advise and half a**ed repairs by his mechanic. If I pulled a cam out that was pitted, over and above the lobes being worn off, I would have had serious concerns on the rest of the motor.

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Pitting on the cam surfaces doesn't sound good. Add in the engine knock and the motor must have had some serious lubrication problems. More than likely, the crankshaft surfaces are also damaged with the knock. Might better get a price on a reground crank and bearings, cam bearings, and a set of rings.Hopefully the cylinders and pistons are good. That 4 banger motor is about as simple as you can get. I think the OP got some bad advise and half a**ed repairs by his mechanic. If I pulled a cam out that was pitted, over and above the lobes being worn off, I would have had serious concerns on the rest of the motor.

X2, I feel for the the guy, the old saying "the faster you go the longer it takes" fits this scenario to a T. I'm pizzed, and it's not my motor!!

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FishingTheFL

FishingTheFL

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Looked a pretty large lot clearing job. Hope we get it. Clearing trees and bush so they can "go green". Kinda of dumb to clear trees and bushes that keep the ground cooler and produce oxygen to put up black solar panels that die out in a few years...

Money in my pocket to go fishing I guess. I'm going to start finishing the fiber glass on the bass boat while I wait on parts. Nick gave me a couple ideas on clamping the transom in but after all the room I have in the 18'... Its hard to go back

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fisherdude

fisherdude

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fishing the FL you diffenty put your sole in trying to fix your older boat from the trim ,lower unit to the motor. i think its time to move on . nick has that pro line add your kicker and gear and your be in a much better shape .  just my two cents, if you keep fixing your old boat i wish you best of luck . hope to meet you at cayuga some time 

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FishingTheFL

FishingTheFL

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My girl would kill me if I bought another boat. I might fix both and sell them... I have the bass boat trailer and motor listed. I kinda like my brown Betty boat but its the wrong time of year.

Get them finished, sold, and then put everything together for next fall and find a good one. But I also look at like this, what I just fixed will be solid where buying another boat I take risks of buying more problems. I thought about getting a little 10' Jon boat put the kicker on that and scoot around in that for some panfish.

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FishingTheFL

FishingTheFL

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Had an idea... My boat is as open as it gets around the motor... Is it possible to take the pan off to check the rod bearings without removing the motor? Also, can I take the head off and check the wrist pins? I'll take a picture to show the clearance I have to work with. Mostly looking to diagnose. The other thing is... If the price of turning the crank is half the price of a new crank.... Should I just go with the new crank...

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FishingTheFL

FishingTheFL

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After talking with Barret, I decided to put new plugs in. #3 was wet and covered black. After replacing all of them, it fired right up and would idle at 600rpm. I hear the knock Lake was talking about loud and clear. My question now is how do I tune the carb? Should this be done under load? There is black material coming out the exhaust. Barret said it could be running lean when I asked earlier in the summer. Is this a carb issue or is it just blow by like Lake said.

If its blow by...

They said they could get new after market parts but didn't give me a price. They were real busy. I found a set of used one for $110(250hrs). Say they are good, can I get away with a cheap fix or just take the time to put the rods rings and bearings in it? I rather just go cheap if it will get rid of the knock.

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Shellback

Shellback

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Just patching the motor hasn't worked out very well for you so far. If you want something reliable, you need to fix it right. I'd bet if you looked around, you could find a decent used 4 banger for less than $500. Possibly a lot less if you wanted to deal with picking up a complete boat that someone would be happy to have gone from their property. Slap a used motor in it for now, and rebuild your present motor properly over time.

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rolmops

rolmops

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Just patching the motor hasn't worked out very well for you so far. If you want something reliable, you need to fix it right. I'd bet if you looked around, you could find a decent used 4 banger for less than $500. Possibly a lot less if you wanted to deal with picking up a complete boat that someone would be happy to have gone from their property. Slap a used motor in it for now, and rebuild your present motor properly over time.

 

Or just put the good used motor in and sell the other one for parts. It seems that there are some new parts in there that will sell for a decent price.

 

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FishingTheFL

FishingTheFL

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Then I have to replace bellows, out drive, motor... Out drive is rebuilt, compression is almost to spec on all cylinders. I don't think there is that many people looking for the parts I've put into it... Most probably would of just scraped the whole thing and been done with it cause of age... I know when I posted about the out drive that something about the length that didn't match up with 72 and up. Maybe they were talking the upper half of the out drive. If anything g I might try selling and buying Nick's pro line but as I said before... I got to deal with the girlfriend (miswell call her my wife). I did get it running, Pap told me how to adjust idle. Barret says they can last a while even with rod knock or piston slap. Ill have to replace it eventually but for now I just wanna get some fishing in

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Hey!! Don't you have a set of muffs that the garden hose hooks up so you can run it in the drive way?? If not go get yourself a set they not that much!! They slide over the lower unit and over the water intake and that puts water to the motor I use mine all the time, and I use it to winterize my motor, put 3 gallons of RV antifreeze and a bilge pump with a short piece of garden hose that screws into the muffs, start pump in bucket start motor and when she's pumping pink out the exhaust or till buckets near empty, Done no plugs removed and no rust build up from condensation!! Next year hook up muffs turn water on fire her up, good to go. Only plug I need to put in is the transome plug!! Done.

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