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Kicker for 18.5 tracker targa


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On our first boat (17 foot CC) we had a 4hp four stroke merc. Very reliable however the thing shook and rattled. We opted to get a twin cylinder kicker (9.9 Honda) on our new boat and its very smooth in comparison. I believe that 6hp and under  are single cylinder and 8 and up are twin. The 4hp though did work just fine as well as a 6hp would for your 18.5 footer. The other nice thing about the 4-6 hp models is most have a built in tank that's nice for quick trips.

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The other things to consider is how you will mount it and steer it. Bracket or the transom (if possible). Either way a long shaft model is what I would opt for given the choice. The ratcheting brackets have a tendency to fail during transport or up on plane. As far as steering I am just using a steering bar nothing fancy.

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Go with a 9.9 for that boat. Here's some pics of mine I installed last winter. Worked awesome this year... wish I put it on 3 years ago when I got the boat new. A Troll master for digital throttle control is also a great addition so you can really dial in your speed easily in various conditions.

I got a regular 9.9 Long shaft w/ electric start new for $2100 down at some big $ boat dealer in NJ and they gave me a 5yr extended warranty on it. I made a bracket for the 3-way fuel valve and was able to utilize a strait panther steering arm off the main. Works awesome.

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Not too bad - certainly quiter overall than trolling with the main which I did for 3 seasons. There is a resonance at dead idle on my boat... luckily it needs rev'd up to bring me even to slow walleye speeds of 1.6 so it never rests there.

I've been happy with it. But I'm sure every boat and the robustness of the installation could yield other results.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Thanks for replying, I'm really so surprised with the level of vibration I see with my Tohatsu 9.8. I've never heard a peep from anyone that ran 4strokes about vibration but when you get one, they all bounce the rods in the holders so to speak. My 6hp 2 stroke purred. I'd be interested to hear from folks if they see a difference from what I see.

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Fleet has his set up nice. I have my kicker set up the same way with the same valve and panther rod. Trollmaster is a must. My 2005 targa 175 splashwell sits much lower in the water which is my only complaint about my set up.

Edited by boho607
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Hey Mike mine doesn't seem to vibrate or at least it doesn't seem to but then again I'm used to my old 2 stroke but I can't help but wonder about the mounting of yours. Is it on the transom like the old one? Mine is on a bracket. I wonder if you were to put some thin hard rubber underneath it on the transom? It might be picking up internal vibration from the transom itself. I used to do it on my previous boat to protect the transom glass from the mount screws as well as to deaden the vibration a bit. Just a thought....I used a piece cut from a tractor tire inner tube.

Edited by Sk8man
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I have a 17.6 starcraft superfisherman with a 8 hp Yamaha. Pushes it nicely. 9.9 will move your boat fine. I don't have any issues with vibration and have it on the transom.

 

I did add a fuel and water separator that has 2 outlets so both the kicker and main motor are hooked up. That way you do not have to switch back and forth which may be an issue in rough water.

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I have a 17.6 starcraft superfisherman with a 8 hp Yamaha. Pushes it nicely. 9.9 will move your boat fine. I don't have any issues with vibration and have it on the transom.

 

I did add a fuel and water separator that has 2 outlets so both the kicker and main motor are hooked up. That way you do not have to switch back and forth which may be an issue in rough water.

 

Aren't you purely relying on your primer bulbs on each fuel line at this point (main and kicker)?  If a ball valve fails on either line, you'll be siphoning fuel from the adjacent motor's fuel line and potentially sucking air through the carb.  That's why I went with a 3-way ball valve approach.

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Hey Les, it's on the transom. In gonna look into a pad or something but boy if you set your hand on the motor it buzzes like a mad man. Goes right through your feet when trolling.

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Gotta be attributed largely to the boat/structure.  That's the factor that is different from kicker install to kicker install.  Some people you hear complain about vibration, others are very happy, all using the same exact motor.  I fall in the latter with my particular installation.

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Aren't you purely relying on your primer bulbs on each fuel line at this point (main and kicker)?  If a ball valve fails on either line, you'll be siphoning fuel from the adjacent motor's fuel line and potentially sucking air through the carb.  That's why I went with a 3-way ball valve approach.

Its a raycor water separator. I am not a 100% but think there is a check valve on it along with the bulb check valves. I did a lot of research and seems like there has been no issues. I have had it on my boat  for close to 3 seasons now with no issues. Walleye central was where I got most info and the hull truth.

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Mine is transom mounted on my 2016 crestliner 1850 superhawk but the mounting screws on the tohatsu didnt retract enough to fit over the transsom so i had to cut off the factory bolts/screws and then put stair tread liner on the outside and over to the front of the transom to protect it and then put bolts through the holes on the front into a piece of 1/4" plywood to protect the inner transom. Works well, totally removable, and does a damn good job of dampening vibration as no part of the motor mount is in direct contact with the boat.I have it linked to the main with a panther tie bar which I did not have to bend at all.I topped it off with an Itroll throttle controller which I love.

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