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rubber bands for blow back


scobar

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with all the talk of reduced blowback does any one just use a rubber band release. I get it with all the stuff you need to get the bait down and less is better to reduce blow back. Sure the set up has to be softer with a rubber band or your resetting for false releases, but I was just thinking about it, pretty cheap and no drag....thoughts

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In reading this I thought that perhaps not everyone reading here may be familiar with what is being talked about....e..g. "newbies" and it might be a good opportunity for all of us to share some thoughts on it.

Blowback or the repositioning of the cable and weight outward from the back or side of boat and upward because of water resistance is mentioned on here a lot mainly when discussing downrigger weights. This might be an appropriate post for sharing folks ideas and experiences on their own "platforms" (boats :) ).  I am always struck by the fact that most folks assume that just going heavier in weight will totally solve the problem which is usually thought of as trying to get exact (or close to it) depth placement of the weight so you know where the lure is running and it is usually in conjunction with where  you are spotting target fish on your finder and or locating to desired temperature they are thought to be residing in. Although this is important it is not the total answer because especially on Lake Ontario there are very strong subterranean currents often running in various directions and sometimes at once. Another factor that occurs to me is the size, and weight of your boat combined with how much it is powered when trolling as well as perhaps the shape of the hull.  Many folks have gone or are going from the old 10 lb cannon ball, pancake, or fish shaped  type weights to more sleek torpedo or streamlines fish shaped weights from 12 to 20 or more pounds to try to severely reduce or eliminate this repositioning of the downrigger weights and lures. This increase in weight and change to a more hydrodynamic shape can help to varying degrees but again the amount of change may also depend on the above factors as well. and especially the amount of underwater current present combined with boat speed etc. I have not previously heard anyone mention that the weight of their boat pulling through the water might be a significant factor in creating blowback but my hunch is that it plays a major role. I am assuming  larger heavier boats with increased engine power encountered on Lake O probably create larger blowback than smaller lighter powered craft pulling through the water and I wonder whether it is as critical that a smaller boat use a16-20 lb weight which may greatly tax their downrigger motors especially over time. One very important consideration is how deep you usually troll with your downriggers. The deeper you go the more substantial the blowback can become even with minor increases in boat speed. The other thing is that the underwater currents down deep can be strong and greatly affect your weights both backward and sideways. Fishing the Finger Lakes a lot and moderately fishing Lake O most of my downrigger use is within  the 100 ft to surface as I try to avoid lakers for the most part and fish mainly for the silvers. I've used 10 lb weights for years (the max for my riggers) on my 18 1/2 ft Whaler with a 9.8 trolling motor and about three years ago I switched to the 10 lb fish shape torpedo type weights (bikinibottom on LOU or for the torpedos troutman87) which help with reducing the angle of the wire cable and the currents on Seneca for example can be substantial as well.   My feeling is that whether you actually need to go with dramatic increases in your weights isn't a matter of "heavier is ALWAYS better" and perhaps some folks would say "Change to braid" for less resistance and reduction of the "singing" of cable. 

 

I'm interested in hearing the thoughts of others on the topic.

Edited by Sk8man
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Well can't say much more than Les, he has covered just about every angle, I just want to share an experience I had that will make Les's words a little more understanding!! I had at the time a 18ft Troller with a 88 SPL I had home made very slender pancake weights with special tails to act as a downward planer worked great at home they were directly under the boat and tracked true after a few bends with a vise grip and a hammer, we used road signs for our rudder design very stiff aluminum. Ok in Henderson Bay we lowered them to 60ft and 80ft we were in the fish big time back and forth with different lures, spoons, flies, you name it. We noticed a slight angle at the rigger, no happy with that we dropped each rigger 10ft, so at 70 & 90 we went back and forth with nothing to show for it. So we then decided to do a test so we knew of an area that gradually gets shallow and has a sandy bottom. So we headed towards shore at the same speed, at 70ft our 90ft rigger hit up and 55ft our 70 rigger bumper up, very disappointed to say the least, so our diver idea was s failure along with our idea of the angle of the wire = X amount feet down, I was off by 20 some feet!! I really was stumped other than I need to let 20+ feet of wire to get the results we were looking for. Les is spot on with the currents playing a big role in your depth. This year I purchased Mag 20's of a fellow LOU member so I can run TroutMans 16lbers when he gets to making them, I have purchased 12lbsers but I only had mag 10's and didn't want to ruin them. So I hope this will cure some blowback, plus I'm going to purchase either a hawk or smart troll at the show this year, just to see where in the hell my balls areLOL. PAP

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