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TX 44s won't run


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TX 44s won't run

OK guys, I am in trouble again! I purchased 6 TX44 planer boards and 6 replacement stainless pins. These were intended for multiple copper/leadcore rigs. I read and reread all the information I could find on these. Went to bloodrun's site , read and reread their suggestions for modifications for use with copper and leadcores. Set my rigs up with the proper braided backing, proper placement of rod holders on the boat. Bottom line I can't get these damned things to work! They just want to drag along behind the boat. I've nearly ruined one of these things moving the clip/release(witch I think is junk), forward back, up, down! I'm pissed, you got the idea! Could anybody give me any help? Thanks!!!!!!!!!

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So they arent planning out to the side like they should?  You adjusted the weight on them right?  What leadcores did you run?  Any difference between different amounts of leadcore?  Are you letting them out 30+ yards? 

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Can you take a few pictures of them, as follows:

- close up of the arm.

- close up of the entire board, connected to your line.

- board in water a few feet behind boat

- board in water in the final position (distance) behind the boat.

 

With those, I'm positive we'll be able to figure this out.

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One thing I did was move both weights to the front that keeps the bevel in the water to make it skate. Just modify one board till you get it to do what you want before making changes to the other boards. you probably haven't done anything that can't be undone. the new boards are now coming with a locking clip. I run Church boards with offshore locking clips

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I have left for the weeks work, quill get the pictures you request as some as I can get the boat back in Cayuga 'll. Boards won't plane out to the side, drag off rear corner of boat, 10 colors of lead core, 50 lb power pro braid backing

Sent from my VS990 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Just now, TileMan Dan said:

Wow dont know what to say? I quit running them but not due to that reason. Ran 300' coppers off them with no problems.


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So what do you run?

 

I run all church walleye boards but have had issues last season with some not sitting in line right running 3 to 4 boards on a side

 

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4 hours ago, dick black said:

Been running otter boards with double keels for some time, they work very well with 1 copper, multiple lines out you get a great big bow in the tow line, then nothing works right

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The only way you are going to get a bow in the tow line with double-keel otter boards is if the driver is doing sleepy "s" turns. Not sure why you are having trouble with these delivery systems but perhaps time on another angler's boat or charter might help.  Measure the length of the otter's tow rope knot to loop.  Look at the angle of the keels etc. etc. and try to duplicate.  

 

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Just run big boards and be done with it. They pull like a mule and no issues. There was a thread like this years ago and a blueprint for homemade ones. The price of a cedar or that artificial decking 1X6 and some all thread you'll have enough cash to put a days worth of gas in. I added more angle on the front edge and shortened up by 3" best boards I ever owned. I have 2 sets of planers in the corner of the garage. Just my  $.02 :lol:

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Thanks for all the help! Maybe sometime in the last 40 years or so of running planer boards I have forgotten something, old age setting in I guess, I will keep working on this problem. As far as as my otter boats go, they were set up as,per Rick Hijecki's measurements, I will check them again, thanks


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I used rick's #'s also. I can run a 6,10 leads and a copper of the boards with out problems. That is at once. I run 200# power pro for tow line. I don't have a mast so tow line runs off front corner of hard top. Pulley is probably 7-8 above water, But I don't get no big bows In tow line Like you described.  Good luck and hope anything I mentioned helps.

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I run The 44's, 300 copper one side 400 the other with no problems. Tile man is right about the diving though. 

If they dive with a fish on you are fighting the fish wrong. With a fish on and the board in the water the rod MUST be held parallel to the water until the board is close enough to be lifted out of the water.
If a board should dive, typically at the end of a long run, simply put your thumb on the spool and freespool it. The board will keep the line tight on the fish and will pop up within 30 seconds or so.


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