FishingFool34

Downrigger Motor Rebuild

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I tried to convert my manual downrigger to eletric using a car seat motor. Not strong enough. Tried a window wiper motor. Took the end cap off, and its all plastic gears. Did not even try it because I knew it would not last. Most eletric motors can be repaired, and I believe the brushes are the cause alot of times. Many times they can just be cleaned up( brushes, armatures. Also, I have done it myself with outboard starter motors.   Look on youtube. Plus I see many have responded with good leads on replacements. My reason for responding is to provide the information about the car motors in case anyone was interested in that. Plus, when you go to auto parts store, they need a make and model and year of  car to look anything up. Otherwise they are clueless where to start. It would be great if you could just look at their inventory and see what would work, but it doesn't work that way. 

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If it's brushes or the armature you should be able to go to a starter& alternator shop they can under cut the armature "special little saw that removes the brush debris in between the copper bars" armatures create more power when each bar acts by itself. When the carbon from the brushes loads up the groves the armature bars act as one. If it's the brushes they should be able to get a brush close to what you need then just file it until it fits the brush holder. Make sure the magnets are still glued tight to the case. In the 23 years I was self employed in the starter & alt. business I never could get a magnet to glue back In properly. So don't tap on the case thinking your doing yourself a favor and now it might work, if anything if you crack or split a magnet your done.

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I pulled both motors out and they are exactly the same. I pulled them apart (just the motor from drive assembly) and noticed one had significantly more rust/buildup on the worm gear. Unfortunately I didn't mark which motor came out of the slow rigger but I cleaned it up the best I could. Going to put them back in the riggers and test them out to see if it made a difference before I go ordering new ones.

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That mistake comes under--:: the faster you go the longer it takes  :lol:. I used to use a black or white sharpie to mark the top plate to the case and a different color to mark the commentators end plate to the case. Some are indexed with a notch in the case, but you could still assemble it end for end incorrect. That's why I use 2 different colors. In my beginning times I did this to the Myers snowplow motors!!  :itwasntme:.

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It's important to determine exactly which model Cannon you need parts for.  The Mag 10A was made earlier and is older than the Mag 10 with different motors for each model.  Motors are available for the Mag 10 and not available for Mag 10A.  Fish 307 has Cannon schematics by model to help identify each model-the motor cover design is an easy way to tell.  Cannon didn't make this easy by how they designated model numbers with so many Mag 10 models over the years.  Not sure what exact years Mag 10A were made, but I bought some in 1988 and that wasn't first year for that model.

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FishinFool - You should be able to tell by the insignia on top of the downrigger (if present). Here is what it looks like: otherwise it is a Mag 10

mag10ainsignia.jpg

Edited by Sk8man

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I'm pretty sure mine have that insignia but I'll have to double check to be sure. I thought the 'A' was for Auto-stop which meant the balls stop at the water line automatically which mine 100% do. Those mag 10 motors look identical to the ones I pulled out of mine though...

 

 

what would happen if I put those motors in my riggers?

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The first Mag 10A's did not have autostop... I have two of them and they have different motors than pictured above if my memory serves me correctly. Mine are from about 1983-85. I'm pretty sure you are describing the first generation of Mag10's after the Mag 10A and they had autostop and a slightly different board inside with a different number of wire connectors (4 vs. 3?) giving it the autostop

Edited by Sk8man

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Does that say Mag 20 on the board or 2.0 can't tell from the pic ?

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I think you may have a Mag20DT there. I take that back... I think you have a Mag 10 with a replaced board from a Mag 20DT.

 

Edited by Sk8man

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well I'm thoroughly confused now haha. I'll check the insignia on mine when I get home. I know they never came with that big "mag 20 Dt" sticker on them that's for sure. But they came with the boat so who knows.

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37 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

I think you may have a Mag20DT there. I take that back... I think you have a Mag 10 with a replaced board from a Mag 20DT.

 

I agree. That motor I showed is from fish307 new for $159 + shipping , gives you an idea for cost anyway........

 

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Here is the insignia on the riggers... there is another sticker that says "positive ion control" looks like regular mag 10s which makes sense because that motor looks identical to mine. But $160... think I would look into getting them rebuilt before I dropped $300+ on new motors.   Maybe previous owner upgraded boards to add auto stop?

IMG_0019.JPG

Edited by FishingFool34

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The motor in it is also a Mag 10 but maybe the board blew and it was replaced with a Mag 20DT OR perhaps they even used the same board back then. I believe the pics here show the Mag 10 motor and the Mag 20DT withthe 20DT at the left and the Mag 10 to the right of it. https://www.fish307.com/cannon-downrigger-part-3996515-motor-gear-housing-assy/

The motor posted by 1080ccf earlier in the post is the Mag 10A motor

 

Edited by Sk8man

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i HAVE THOSE TYPE MOTORS IN STOCK.................................BRAND NEW MOTORS BOSCH 0130821157......YOU WONT FIND THEM ANYWHERE BUT HERE.............

 

THANKS

 

EMAIL ME WITH YOUR NEEDS.

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Posted (edited)

I think the Cannon Mag 10A downrigger motors are the same motor as a 1984 Chrysler E-Class automobile power window motor. If you search for Cardone 42-44 power window motor, you can buy them online for about $30. I have one on order and I'm going to try it. That is for the round motor style in a Mag10A, if you have the flat motor style in a Mag10, I THINK its a Cardone 42-414 part number but you should check that to verify, not sure.

 

I think they have a different gearbox, but it looks like the same motor shaft corkscrew... I'm hoping I can just unbolt the two screws holding the motor to the gearbox, and bolt up to the old gearbox.

 

I'll let you know if it works, when the motor gets here.

Edited by Tominatorny
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Be interesting to see how this works out.....

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