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Mono to floro knots?


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I've never really used fluorocarbon leaders before but going to try some this year.

I have 25-30lbs mono main line on my reels now and planning on putting 12lbs fluorocarbon leader for spring fishing and switch to a 20lbs leader for summer and fall.

Just wonder if I can get some advice on length and knots?

 

 

 

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I like 30 lb braid for main line then floro leader last much longer then mono and much less likely to break due to wear  from rigger clips also better hook up ratio on strikes due to no stretch .

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for stream fishing I use 8-10lb mainline mono with a simple surgeon's knot to 4,6 or 8 lb flouro leader.  On the lake I use power swivels like the other guys. 20lb mainline mono to 12lb flouro in spring time 15 to 20lb flouro the rest. IMO but I am a hack in comparison to the other guys lol

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I dont feel i spook many fish with a small diameter braid as a main line then small swivel and a 8 ft leader then a duel lock snap at the spoon .But if you want do a wined on floro leader of what ever length you want but you still need a good swivel about 8 feet in front of spoon for line twist if swivel is to far  away it will affect spoon action.

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#8 or #10 Spro swivel connecting the fluoro leader to mono or braid or copper or leadcore then a good quality solid ring  ballbearing swivel at the terminus of the fluoro leader for most stuff I run.

Edited by Sk8man
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I normally use #8's on the copper without any real problems but this also depends on the diameter of the holes in your particular rod tip and guides (e.g. some eye inserts take up more space than others) as well as the particular knot used and the line diameters.  I use a finely twisted haywire on the copper end and a standard clinch knot on the leader end of the swivel. I have never had any problems with this setup but you do have to tie as tightly as possible (cinching down the clinch knot wet) to make the knots as small as possible to fit through and test them before using. Might sound like a pain the way I'm describing but isn't really. I have more faith in this setup than some of the other knots where I've had breakoffs in the distant past. The #8 Spro is rated at 50 pound test. If worried about the knot parts a tiny amount of Seal All glue canbe applied to the very ends.

Edited by Sk8man
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10 hours ago, flybuster said:

Sk8 I haven't broke a #10 yet but do the 8's feed as well thru the reel I'd like to run something heavier in between my copper and backer? That seems to be the weak link as far as lb ratings go

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

 

 

Best choice i have found for copper connections is the Spro Heavy Swivel. https://www.spro.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SHSB-ALL

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The heavy version is fine  for rods with large diameter tips and eyes and I use them on my rods with roller tips and although you don't NEED roller tips for copper you do have more line connection options with them and the copper comes on very smoothly.but I have to go with the #8's on most of the other rods.with conventional tips and eyelets.

Edited by Sk8man
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4 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

The heavy version is fine  for rods with large diameter tips and eyes and I use them on my rods with roller tips and although you don't NEED roller tips for copper you do have more line connection options with them and the copper comes on very smoothly.but I have to go with the #8's on most of the other rods.with conventional tips and eyelets.

 

Actually heavy swivels have a much slimmer profile in comparison to a ball bearing swivel of the same size.

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Rob maybe you have been able to find smaller ones than the 150 # 3's that I have but they are all I have been able to find. Here is the difference for me: #3 Spro on top #8 on the bottom. The #8 is not a ball bearing swivel though but they seem to do the job without line twist.

Spros.jpg

Edited by Sk8man
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Thanks for the input. I have always run a ball bearing swivel between my main line and floro leader and have had no problems. From the thread I thought that some were skipping this step.

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