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subtroll problem?


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need some help guys. last weekend the subtoll speed went dead. im flying blind and i hate it. i have it hook up so its detacheable and today i cut the downrigger cable back about 3' and reattached it (figured i start fresh). i installed a fresh 9 volt too. i went for a cruise tonight with the family and when i put the probe down i had temp but no speed. occasionally tonight the needle would move but never long enough to show a consistent or correct speed.

any suggestions?

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Legacy,

1.) Take a voltmeter, set it to the D/C setting on the meter to check for voltage in your RCA wire at the back of the receiving unit on your dash - it should read some voltage (although you'll have to put the probe in water to make an electrical contact in the probe). If it reads voltage then you have continuity to the probe and hence it's not a loose wire, bad RCA connection, etc. It sounds like this isn't the case, however, since you have temperature.

2.) Check for water in the probe

3.) Check the white fly wheel which reads the speed. The wheel should be moving freely, i.e. no debris in it, it's not hanging up, etc.

4.) I would highly recommend insulating your removable connector at the probe by wrapping it with rubberized insulation tape. Additionally I would also wrap the RCA connector on your rigger with the same tape

5.) Check your connection where the downrigger cable comes into contact with your removable clip. Out of the package, Moor uses a "U-clip" terminator which permanently attaches to the probe and makes metal to metal contact with the clip on the probe, the U - clip and the downrigger cable. As you know, you have to BURN OFF the coating on the insulated downrigger cable in order to make a good connection at this point. Even a little bit of leftover burnt insulation can mess up the connection.

Man, that's about all I can think of, but I would really try and insulate all of your connections with tape. Otherwise, the probe circuitry might be bad.

Good luck

- Chris

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3.) Check the white fly wheel which reads the speed. The wheel should be moving freely, i.e. no debris in it, it's not hanging up, etc.

This is about the only thing that was ever wrong with mine when I had a good temp. reading and no speed. I'd eye-ball it and spin it by hand and drop it back down and it worked.

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you may of had a wire pop off inside the head unit i had to fix mine a month ago its not to hard but i called sub troll to have them walk me through it they were very helpful. just have to be careful splitting the case its like a computer board inside there

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Rob I was experiencing the same type of thing today. The speed would go off completely but temp would stay fine for a wile then I would go back and wiggle/squeeze the plug/jack that comes off the antenna cable and it would go right back on. That's where I would start maybe the jack is bad or got rusty a little.

Just my 2 cents on it. Good luck :!:

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The speedometer on the Moor is very sensitive to your boat's voltage. Have your electrical system tested for voltage drops. Check your boats battery, (batteries), not only for stored voltage but for health.(Load test.)

My Moor speedo drops to zero when raising one of my older Cannons, especially when fishing deep. This rigger draws a lot of power because of it's age.

A side note: Most of the problems I see at my store involving marine electronics are ultimately traceable to bad batteries. Good voltage readings don't necessarily indicate good health of a battery. Marine batteries MUST be charged between uses for long life.

Bring a questionable battery to West Marine, and we'll test it for charge and health, free.

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