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I need some help


nicknick

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Fiber glass boats have a wooden skeleton. Transom, stringers and deck usually all wood with fiberglass over it. Stress cracks near stringers is usually a good sign stringers are shot. Soft spot in the deck any where is a good chance of stingers are shot. If they are shot, then transom is shot... Fiber glass boats turn into nightmares quick

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6 hours ago, nicknick said:

I need some help

Hi, im kinda new here but i would really like your help.

i seem to have a good deal on a Sea Pro 204 walkaround 1990, does anyone know if these hulls have wood in them or are they 100% fiberglass? 

That's a 27 y/o boat. Regardless of  whether wood  is used in it's construction or not, get a survey done. I'd bet it has a wood transom and stringers though.

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In 1990 and that MFG I would put money down that it used encapsulated wood for the stringers and transom. Boston Whalers are not immune to water logged flotation that is between the outer and inner hull. Easiest way to check for water intrusion is to pull the largest fastener you can find on the stringer and transom then put a right angle pick in the hole and dig around. You should get dry wood shavings. You can also tap around listening for a pinging sound vs a thud. Moisture meters are available on Ebay and finally a Surveyor should be able to tell you the condition of what your looking at. 

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Thanks alot guys, i read what everyone had to say. If i get a survey done but the boat for example has been sitting in a guys barn for 4 years... how would the survey come out!? i dont know alot about fiberglass boat. Im thinking ill stick with my original idea keep looking for a starcraft islander or something like that.

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No one knows how the survey would turn out until its done. The hull may have been compromised way before it sat in a barn ,so that means very little. If its a I/O I would hesitate if its a OMC vs a Mercruiser. OMCs have not been made for quite some time and parts may be hard to come by. As far as the survey you may see what it cost to just check for moisture vs a full blown survey that will run aprox  20-25 bucks a foot. A surveyor will not check the engine out, that  you do yourself or have a  local mechanic check it out.

 

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Bozeman Bob I think you may be mistaken abbout the water logged situation with Whalers. The foam injected into it before the sections are fused together (about 15 seconds)  is impervious to water and it expands to fill any possible voids. Any stuff that substitutes for wood is Phenol based and won't rot anyway.

Edited by Sk8man
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     I have read otherwise on different boating forums where people have run into what I wrote. Not saying they all get waterlogged but some of the older models have had that problem.......   Matter of fact ,I just glanced at   www.Continuouswave.com     A site dedicated to whalers and one guy was replacing the WOOD in his transom because of water intrusion , another was trying to figure out how to dry out his 200 lbs of extra water imbedded in his foam,didnt look any further, that was enough to verify my previous post.

Edited by Bozeman Bob
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@Bozeman Bob 

hi thanks alot for the info, that boat has an 200hp optimax.

i dont really know how to ask this but the boat has been out of the water for years, would the surveyor be able to see if the fiberglass has been delaminated or if the hull is safe? I dont feel like having to rip everything apart.

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 You should be able to see any outwardly visible delamination, To me it depends on what the asking price is and the condition of the motor as well. Maybe if you reach out to some of the members that live near where ever the boat is they may be willing to inspect it with you. If the boat is under 4,000   I would not pay for a survey. If I was to go that route I would look at it with a fine tooth comb and have a boat savy friend with me. Then I would make a offer based on any flaws and it passing a survey [ which I would have done if I had any concerns about the hull after climbing around it and tapping everything in site with a plastic tipped hammer ]. You may also try googling the boat and then the motor info and read everything that shows up. If it going for more than 6 grand I would have a survey done,probably set you back about 400-500 and that would include a land and in water inspection.

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I think it must relate to the real old ones then...another thing right there.....ever notice how many real old ones are still around and still on the water (e..g. work boats etc.)?:)

Edited by Sk8man
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Decent used outboard motors are not that plentiful around here. Not sure what it would cost to fix a seized block in your case. That would be something I would look into and have a good idea what its going to cost before even thinking of making a offer on it. You could be dropping another 3-5 grand on repowering it ,at that point without knowing your budget you may be better off finding a true turn key setup. That's the beauty of I/Os inboards ,blocks are a dime a dozen compared to high hp outboards. From what I read your going to want at least another 200 hanging on the back.

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Does any one have an opinion on me putting in a 150hp outboard on a 2500lbs sea pro walkaround. Right now it have a 200hp outboard but i found a great deal on a 150hp, what do you guys think?


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