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longbow

Mounting a Kicker Motor

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Mounting a Kicker Motor

My kicker will go on this weekend I hope.  It is a 2016 Pro Kicker 9,9hp. 25" x-long shaft.   So what I have secured is the remote with wires/cable, pass through seal, throttle cables, and the mounting hardware for the garelick fixed transom bracket and the bracket itself.  I need to get the tee for splitting the fuel line and the extra fuel line itself.  Now my question is this:  What can I use for a backer plate for the kicker mount.  The fella doing the install suggested 4 pieces of aluminum plate about .250" thick with a 3/8" hole in the center of each.  These would measure 4x4" each.  I am thinking marine plywood about 3/8" thick that would be a few inches larger than the bracket itself with the holes to match the bracket.  Seems simpler and easier and quicker.  The transom of my boat, a Penn Yan Avenger already has a mounting plate on it from the previous owner who was going to put a kicker on it but sold the boat instead to me.  I've no idea if the fixed bracket will slide down into the plate that is on there now or if I can fit it over the plate so I can leave it  on there.  

 

So how has anyone mounted there kicker on the transom.  The transom on the P-Y seems pretty robust to me and tapping it like was done on the survey it seems hard as a rock with 0 dry rot anywhere.  So suggestions as to how and which way to go.  thanks

Edited by longbow

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so there are no holes through the transom as of now correct! you mention it's a fixed bracket, does the pro kicker come with tilt and or trim? I would go with the metal, once tightened it will stay tight. Wood expands and contracts to much. On a warm humid day the bolts will be frog azz tight and on a hot sunny dry day you will be able to get a 1/2 turn or more with a wrench, eventually pulling the plates through the first layer of the plywood, now we just weakened our whole set-up.

Edited by pap

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Yep power trim and tilt, hence the remote with control cables and wiring.  The transom has a plate for a garelick heavy duty motor mount on it now.  The fella never did get a kicker nor the motor mount for the plate.  So basically just the plate is mounted on the transom now.  Looking at the fixed bracket I don't think it will be narrow enough to slide down in the channels of the plate that is on there now.  

 

Sean where are you located?  Your idea might be the easiest way for me to go.  I'll p.m. ya, thanks

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I had my buddy modify one of these brackets for my garelick stainless motor bracket so I can remove it for transporting. That is the only drawback to a permanent kicker is the ability to not remove it on long drives.

 71053.jpg

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I believe that removal plate (Garelick I think) may have a max. of 120 lbs. motor and usually the HP bracket capacities for four stroke motors are much less than for 2 strokes. I don't think the plate above itself  is intended for a 9.9 Hp four stroke which probably weighs at or above the 120 lb max. capacity anyway. I know the one above is a bit different but may be the same issue. As far as a backing plate another option may be 3/4 or 1 inch Starboard material bolted through with stainless steel hardware. https://www.interstateplastics.com/King-Starboard-Black-Sheet-HDPBEM-K.php?sku=HDPBEM-K&vid=20170605155613-8p&dim2=12&dim3=24&thickness=0.750&qty=1

bracketholder.jpg

Edited by Sk8man

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17 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

I believe that removal plate (Fulton I think) has a max. of 120 lbs. motor and usually the HP bracket capacities for four stroke motors are much less than for 2 strokes. I don't think the plate above itself  is intended for a 9.9 Hp four stroke which probably weighs at or above the 120 lb max. capacity anyway.

bracketholder.jpg

I take that back it was the fulton bracket not the garelick. I also have the garelick adjustable bracket that slides into the above bracket so I didn't need to permanetly mount the adjustable one to the boat. I have an 8hp 2 stroke johnson on mine but wouldn't be afraid of putting a 10hp 4 stroke on it. 

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Chas the sticker above refers to the plate itself not the bracket so I think what they mean is that those recommendations relate to any bracket that is placed in the holder. Ihave both the stainless bracket and the aluminum one and went with the stainless one but then bolted through the hull with the starboard like material as a backing plate as I was concerned about the specifications on the holder. I have no problems with my 2016 Tohatsu 9.8 4 stroke trailering with the stainless garelick bracket set up the way I have it bolted through the hull transom

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1 hour ago, Sk8man said:

Chas the sticker above refers to the plate itself not the bracket so I think what they mean is that those recommendations relate to any bracket that is placed in the holder. Ihave both the stainless bracket and the aluminum one and went with the stainless one but then bolted through the hull with the starboard like material as a backing plate as I was concerned about the specifications on the holder. I have no problems with my 2016 Tohatsu 9.8 4 stroke trailering with the stainless garelick bracket set up the way I have it bolted through the hull transom

The one time I trailered to the launch down the street I didn't like how much mine bounced around on the bracket. Do you tether yours in some way to the boat to keep it from bouncing around?

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Nope. Chas  I just make sure it is in the complete downward vertical position and locked there. I had the 2 stroke Johnson long shaft 9.9 on it for 14 years without any problems too. The base of the bracket is anchored on the hull with a double thickness of the starboard stuff inside and outside the transom with stainless bolts and I have never even had to reposition the motor or adjust anything at all on it.It is a good idea to periodically check the bolts and nuts for tightness on the bracket itself though.

bracket.jpg

Edited by Sk8man

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I have some 3/8" alum. that is 16" long and 4" wide I have to pick up tomorrow from my brother in the southern tier.  I'll use that as backer. etc.etc.

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Tohatsu makes the small motors for Merc and Nissan I believe. They are very similar to the Merc models but not necessarily identical and are somewhat less expensive.

There are some differences in them accounting for weight disparity.The Tohatsu models seem a bit lighter than the similar model Mercs.

 

I do like it as it is real good on gas especially and trolls real well. I trolled for roughly 12 hrs. during a recent derby on 1 1/2 gals of gas vs. 3 1/2 gals. for 10 hrs. on my 2 stroke Johnson 9.9.

I am able to steer my boat using just my big motor with no connector rod or anything and I have found that the 4 stroke is much better going into the wind and seems to have more torque while it does seem slower than my 2 stroke at top speed (6 mph vs 8 to 9 on my 2 stroke) maybe different gearing?

 

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13 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

does seem slower than my 2 stroke at top speed (6 mph vs 8 to 9 on my 2 stroke) maybe different gearing?

 

That's the nature of the 2 stroke they pull the same rpms with an extra powerstroke compared to the 4 stroke but at the cost of fuel. My 2 stroke 1988 150 Johnson runs like a raped date but man does she like her fuel. I would never troll exclusively with the 150 I did it for about 3 trips used 18 gallons of fuel just trolling for 10 hours. She is a hog. I will say that she cruises nicely at around 2 mpg but trolling I would bet she gets the same or worse.

 

My 8hp 2 Stroke johnson pushes my 23' boat nicely for the size but 10 hours of trolling will use about 3 1/2 gallons of fuel.

Edited by Chas0218

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You know Chas I have the 2002 135 Merc Optimax and before that I had a 35 horse Johnson 2 stroke and this 135 doesn't use as much gas as that 35 did as long as I don't totally open it up. I think they made some major improvements ingas economy during that time period.

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You know Chas I have the 2002 135 Merc Optimax and before that I had a 35 horse Johnson 2 stroke and this 135 doesn't use as much gas as that 35 did as long as I don't totally open it up. I think they made some major improvements ingas economy during that time period.


I go through about $20-25 in an 8 hr day of trolling with my 135 optimax. She gets a little congested toward the end of the day but a good high rpm run back to port usually cleans her out


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

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28 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

You know Chas I have the 2002 135 Merc Optimax and before that I had a 35 horse Johnson 2 stroke and this 135 doesn't use as much gas as that 35 did as long as I don't totally open it up. I think they made some major improvements ingas economy during that time period.

Most definitely, the optimax is EFI right? My old Johnson is triple carb setup.

2 minutes ago, King Slammin said:

 


I go through about $20-25 in an 8 hr day of trolling with my 135 optimax. She gets a little congested toward the end of the day but a good high rpm run back to port usually cleans her out


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

 

That 91 non ethanol? At $3/gallon thats about 8 gallons of fuel, which still isn't too bad considering the size of the motor. I think too on your boat being lighter might be a little more forgiving. My boat weighs in loaded around 5,000lbs.

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thinking of my dads boat back in the day , 1968 80 hp evinrude on a thompson boat that baby would drink a 6 gallon can of gas in an hour . outboards sure have come a long ways  from back when . the 8 hp tohatsu i troll with now slips gas and i am not sure what it burns cause it plumed into the main tank . i do know i am not going to gas station every week for gas for the boat like i did for the 2 stroke ..

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That 91 non ethanol? At $3/gallon thats about 8 gallons of fuel, which still isn't too bad considering the size of the motor. I think too on your boat being lighter might be a little more forgiving. My boat weighs in loaded around 5,000lbs.


Yes 91 non ethanol. And I usually run a few miles from port before I set up. The weight is a huge factor and having a good motor/hull pairing is the key. I had a 25' bay liner hardtop with a 305 in it. What a dog. Wasn't bad on gas while trolling but to run anywhere I could watch the gauge move. 24 mph top speed


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

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5 hours ago, King Slammin said:

Cris -  I can troll down real well with the 135 Opti and it does fine but the only time I do it is when it is real rough and going against the wind and not for long duration. I had my previous set of plugs for 12 years and they were still not bad when I changed them out. They will eat plugs according to a number of mechanics I have talked with at various marinas if they are continuously run at low speed.  I too blow mine out always before I quit fishing. I also run the 91 octane non-ethanol with marine grade stabilizer all year round in both motors.


"I go through about $20-25 in an 8 hr day of trolling with my 135 optimax. She gets a little congested toward the end of the day but a good high rpm run back to port usually cleans her out"


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

 

 
 
 

 

Edited by Sk8man

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