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Kicker throttle control and alternator


tmcaul

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Kicker throttle control and alternator

Thinking about replacing 1990s 9.9hp 2 stroke Johnson with a 4 stroke kicker for a Sea Nymph 17.5. I owned many years ago a 7.5 Honda without electric start. I could always start this motor with just one or two pulls and it had plenty of power for a 21 ft. fiberglass rig which was much heavier than the Sea Nymph.. So I am thinking about a similar size kicker which I will link to main motor with an EZ steer setup.. I'd like to have an alternator to charge batteries for sonar and downriggers and I'd also like to control the speed remotely without adding the control arm up front (which I have with the Johnson). This kicker will probably be kept if I ever buy a bigger boat, so I'd also consider a 9.9hp. What would folks recommend?

 

Best to all from Lake Champlain.

 

Tom

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Tom. Consider a Controllking remote throttle control.
Www.controllking.com
I am a Rep and offer them for $229. Shipped to LOU members.
See the list on the website of units we cover.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

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I run an 8 hp Yamaha on my Lund 17 1/2 ft.   Trolls down to under 1mph and will run up over 6 @wot.  Has an alternator that keeps starting battery charged.  Like the 8 on that boat better than a 9.9 I used before I went to the 8 hp.

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I am also considering replacing my 9.9 Evinrude kicker even though it runs perfect. I want a 15 hp ( better for emergency?) with charging and also will add electric throttle control. My old Evinrude cannot accept the electric throttle system. The carb is buried under an air intake on front of the motor. Anyways, I am interested in what folks have to day on this topic as well. I find it interesting that my research shows that the HP of the kicker is irrelevant, you will only get 5 or 6 mph because unless you get on plane, you are limited.

Sent from my XT1030 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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2 hours ago, garrymny said:

I am also considering replacing my 9.9 Evinrude kicker even though it runs perfect. I want a 15 hp ( better for emergency?) with charging and also will add electric throttle control. My old Evinrude cannot accept the electric throttle system. The carb is buried under an air intake on front of the motor. Anyways, I am interested in what folks have to day on this topic as well. I find it interesting that my research shows that the HP of the kicker is irrelevant, you will only get 5 or 6 mph because unless you get on plane, you are limited.

Sent from my XT1030 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

 

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I have been told the same thing at a local outboard dealer...that the alternator will only deliver about a 3 amp charge while trolling and that 3 amps won't even keep up with the Helix fishfinder and the downriggers on our boat.

 

I'd appreciate it if others would comment.

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I have a Tohatsu 9.8 electric start with alternator and it charges my battery fine at trolling speeds.  Running my fish finder, stereo and other electronics off this battery and when I get home and put in on the charger, the battery is usually 90% or better. 

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If you go with a bigger sized battery you will notice a big difference in the batteries reserve alone. I use a group 31 strictly deep cycle battery that runs my electronics sub Moore 2 cannon mag 20's lowrance elite 7 in the back along with a hummingbird 727, tilted back to see what's going on at the bait, the hook 7 at the helm and a lowrance H20 for GPS speed that way I can have sonar and down scan at the helm. I have I have a 15hp Evenrude 2 stroke with no charging system. I have fished from 5:30am to 8:00pm and have yet to kill that group 31 battery. Maybe the newer units use more juice, but I use 7 different units off 1 battery. My starting battery is also a group 31 in a duel purpose battery.

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I am also considering replacing my 9.9 Evinrude kicker even though it runs perfect. I want a 15 hp ( better for emergency?) with charging and also will add electric throttle control. My old Evinrude cannot accept the electric throttle system. The carb is buried under an air intake on front of the motor. Anyways, I am interested in what folks have to day on this topic as well. I find it interesting that my research shows that the HP of the kicker is irrelevant, you will only get 5 or 6 mph because unless you get on plane, you are limited.

Sent from my XT1030 using Lake Ontario United mobile app



I have a 25' wellcraft with a honda 9.9 kicker that pushes my boat at 5.5 mph full throttle . My buddy has a 17' aluminum boat that has the same exact honda 9.9 and it pushes his boat at 5.5 mph full throttle and my boat weighs almost 3 times more. It's all about hull speed and I wonder if you go with a 15hp the only thing you'll get out of it is adding more weight to your boat

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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10 hours ago, Zinger11 said:


I have a 25' wellcraft with a honda 9.9 kicker that pushes my boat at 5.5 mph full throttle . My buddy has a 17' aluminum boat that has the same exact honda 9.9 and it pushes his boat at 5.5 mph full throttle and my boat weighs almost 3 times more. It's all about hull speed and I wonder if you go with a 15hp the only thing you'll get out of it is adding more weight to your boat

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

Amazing isn't it? I tried my 9.9 at full throttle today, and my speed was 6.5-6.9 MPH. I use 3, yes 3, Deep cell batteries in my boat. Two are connected in parallel, and run everything. One is connected solely to my new Raymarine ST 1000 Autopilot.So far, no problem at all, even though my 9.9 has no charging system......

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Been working on a drag behind 8-10 Amp charger. It's a appx 1'x 6" egg type unit with a special prop that when dragged during trolling or slow movement will generate through its regulator, 14.6 VDC at 8-10 amps. Just unhook from transom and battery then store-it. Obviously for the small boat with little to no batt charge circuit in the outboard as well as small sail boats. but  use high-draw electronics particularly Down Riggers and Electric Trolling Motors. The price for the available units is hellishly expensive for such a simple device. Trying to work with Minn Kota and others to develop and build.

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23 hours ago, RSF said:

Been working on a drag behind 8-10 Amp charger. It's a appx 1'x 6" egg type unit with a special prop that when dragged during trolling or slow movement will generate through its regulator, 14.6 VDC at 8-10 amps. Just unhook from transom and battery then store-it. Obviously for the small boat with little to no batt charge circuit in the outboard as well as small sail boats. but  use high-draw electronics particularly Down Riggers and Electric Trolling Motors. The price for the available units is hellishly expensive for such a simple device. Trying to work with Minn Kota and others to develop and build.

interesting. Maybe the solar panel is the way to go. I did find my 9.9 has a charging system after all. But I don't think it is putting out. Voltage does not seem to change much with or without the motor running. .

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I think you'll find that in order for the alternator to do any serious charging the motor has to be running at a pretty good clip...I don't think ti does all that much to offset high draw items at the usual slow trolling speeds

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I'm thinking about a leftover 9.9 Yamaha. A little bigger than I need but the price is right. I think it will really push the boat at wide open throttle. So if I head in for lunch or move to a different location to fish using the kicker, it'll do some charging. The battery is a new group 29 deep cycle. Maybe I should have bought the 31 but I think I'll be in good shape even after buying new Cannon Magnum 5 downriggers which retrieve the balls at higher speeds.

 

Thanks to all for the responses.

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One of the ways to save a little on battery juice is to use the brake/drag of the downriggers to let your weight DOWN (carefully) rather than the down button of the rigger. I've done ot for at least 35 years without problem:).

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