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Fluorocarbon leader or not

pjprod
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whaler1

whaler1

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Even more so if you fish browns. I run a barrel swivel to flouro on all spoons. Spin Dr rods, no need.
Dipsy spoon, yes as well.


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salmonaddict

salmonaddict

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Have not used fluorocarbon down past 50 feet in 10 years see no difference in strikes or numbers taken. Up high it makes a difference but down past the top 50 ft I see no reason for it. If a fish is going to bite on a dipsy which is a non stealth active fish presentation it don't care about fluorocarbon



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Chowdaire

Chowdaire

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Posted

So if you're running a fluoro leader with spoons do you do that if you're, say, running a Mup rig? 

 

If so, how do you connect the leader so that when the Mag gets hit you don't have a mess when the snap slides down the mainline?

 

I'll be running riggers for the first time this year and love the concept of a Mup rig but it'd be nice to avoid as many early messes as I can. Thanks,

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Paul Czarnecki

Paul Czarnecki

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Posted
So if you're running a fluoro leader with spoons do you do that if you're, say, running a Mup rig? 
 
If so, how do you connect the leader so that when the Mag gets hit you don't have a mess when the snap slides down the mainline?
 
I'll be running riggers for the first time this year and love the concept of a Mup rig but it'd be nice to avoid as many early messes as I can. Thanks,

Fluoro leader is attached to mainline with back to back uni knot or spro swivel. Your slider/Cheater will slide right over the connection down to the mainline spoon.


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Chowdaire

Chowdaire

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6 minutes ago, Paul Czarnecki said:


Fluoro leader is attached to mainline with back to back uni knot or spro swivel. Your slider/Cheater will slide right over the connection down to the mainline spoon.


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Many thanks!

 

I'm always picturing what could go wrong and with running only divers and copper so far I've been unpleasantly surprised a couple of times at how bad it can get. Not nearly as much as I should have been though, thanks to all the knowledge shared on this site.

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Paul Czarnecki

Paul Czarnecki

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Many thanks!
 
I'm always picturing what could go wrong and with running only divers and copper so far I've been unpleasantly surprised a couple of times at how bad it can get. Not nearly as much as I should have been though, thanks to all the knowledge shared on this site.


Almost all "unpleasant" surprises are caused by not being aware of what's going on. Letting a long copper out on a turn. Free falling a diver. Allowing a fish to actually get into another line before moving it.
Situational awareness solves most problems. Most. [emoji15][emoji849]


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  • 2 years later...
WI.IL.Fish4life

WI.IL.Fish4life

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So coho, and steelhead, and trout with this giant sharp teeth can't bite through the flourocarbon?   I'm something of a greenhorn when it çomes to salmon and trout fishing.... And the guy who taught/got me into salmon/trout fishing on lake Michigan moved away, but I was told to always use a steel leader.... I know that these will spook the fish.... I'm just worried about the fish biting through the line, like a pike and mono.

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Sk8man

Sk8man

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 6/23/2017 at 10:20 AM, Paul Czarnecki said:

 


Almost all "unpleasant" surprises are caused by not being aware of what's going on. Letting a long copper out on a turn. Free falling a diver. Allowing a fish to actually get into another line before moving it.
Situational awareness solves most problems. Most. emoji15.pngemoji849.png


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Some real good advice right there.:smile:. A couple things come to mind with the mono vs. fluoro issue: specific purpose and type of set-up. Fluoro is a bit stiffer than mono and smaller in diameter usually so in shallow water and very clear water conditions or lines up high in the water column it can have the advantage of imparting slightly greater action to the spoon or stick and possibly be less visible to a wary fish (e.g. brown trout). Fluoro doesn't have much stretch capability though so down deep or using attractors on wire of any type or braid that also has little to no stretch there may be advantages to using monofilament which does have some stretch to it as the fluoro is "brittle" and depending on knot used can break at the knot with a real hard strike without some absorption. I use mono (short section) on attractor connections  (40 lb Big Game) or else neither in some cases and  with 50 lb.. Big Game used on my home made flies because I want a slight amount of stretch to take up the shock of a vicious strike by a king where there is instantaneous severe stress at that point in the set-up and the Big Game mono despite being inexpensive has pretty good abrasion resistance as well. Just my take on it a lot of "personal preferences" in most of these fishing issues:lol:

Edited by Sk8man
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Gill-T

Gill-T

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Posted

Spring time clearer water conditions or after summer rollovers when clearer water rolls in, I will use 20lb blue label Fluoro leader material for spoons.  The rest of the time it is green trilene XL for spoon leaders. 

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chowder

chowder

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Posted

For Ontario I have separate spoon rigger rods and flasher rigger rods. Spoon rigger rods are 20# main (unless fleas suck) and 20#  flouro leader. 7' 30# flouro on inside and outside dipsy,  60' 20# floro for outside slide diver (almost always has a spoon or 6' coho flasher). Long 20# flouro on Cores and Copper.

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