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24volt Trolling motor question.


Jeremy Goodison

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When using my Ipilot 24 volt I get shot 7 hrs of steady use. Other day on a 10hr tournament day it finally drained out and back to the steering wheel I went. I have two more new batteries just sitting in the garage. Can I the l tie those in to extend run time?? If so does someone have a diagram?

Other thought was can I run a lead from the kicker battery to the 24volt while trolling? Essentially trickling charging it as I go?

Thanks

 

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72" length. I absolutely love it. Ipilot for heading and my kicker does the thrust. I'll probably add auto pilot to my main engine but if it I could only choose one it's the IPilot. The anchor feature is amazing also.
99%of my trips are 5 hrs and the 24 volt is great. After a ten HR event I can now see why a 36 volt would be better.
60" would definitely be short on my fishmaster.

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Jeremy there is no way to tie in 2 more batteries cause then your essentially going from 24 to 48 volts and that wouldn't be good. As for a charging line from kicker, now that can be done but check and see how much amperage that alternator is putting out cause you don't want to burn out the batteries. Essentially you would end up charging both batteries at the same time because they should be run in series which makes them 24 volts

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Here's my thought.....
Run a positive and negative lead to a invertor, where the two bank charger is installed. Then on those long days I simply plug the factory installed charger to the invertor while I'm out?
My thought is that may be enough to extend the extra 30%-40% run time on those days

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Jeremy there is no way to tie in 2 more batteries cause then your essentially going from 24 to 48 volts and that wouldn't be good. As for a charging line from kicker, now that can be done but check and see how much amperage that alternator is putting out cause you don't want to burn out the batteries. Essentially you would end up charging both batteries at the same time because they should be run in series which makes them 24 volts


This actually isn't true. 2 batteries in series give you 24v. Two batteries in parallel are still 12v with double the current. Two 24v batteries (which are really two 12v batteries in series) in parallel is still 24v, just double the current of first pair. Not sure how you would have room for that but simple enough to wire if you want.

Charging from the kicker won't work while the trolling motor is in use because the output is about 13.8v. There is a way to do this with a smart relay but not when the batteries are in use at 24v.

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When using my Ipilot 24 volt I get shot 7 hrs of steady use. Other day on a 10hr tournament day it finally drained out and back to the steering wheel I went. I have two more new batteries just sitting in the garage. Can I the l tie those in to extend run time?? If so does someone have a diagram?

Other thought was can I run a lead from the kicker battery to the 24volt while trolling? Essentially trickling charging it as I go?

Thanks

 

Sent from my XT1650 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

 

 

Can I tie those in to extend run time? Yes, you create a second 24v series battery pair. This second pair is connected in parallel to the first pair.

 

Can you use your kicker's 12v charging system to charge your 24v series-connected battery pair? No, not directly, but yes with additional gear and limitations. If you go with something like this https://www.emarineinc.com/Yandine-Trollbridge-12-to-24-Volt-Battery-Charge-Combiner you will charge 1 of the batteries when the trolling motor isn't running, so if you ran a big outboard and drove from spot to spot with brief periods of trolling you'd get some benefit when running the big outboard, but it wouldn't help if you just ran the 24v trolling motor all day.

 

I believe that if you add a 2 input and either a 2 or 3 output battery isolator (3 to charge your starting battery) then you'd get all batteries being individually charged by both your main outboard and kicker, and the 12 to 24v trollbridge combiner would provide 24 v to your bow trolling motor. Here's an example of an 2/3 isolator https://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,3002.html. Each outboard goes to an input, the three outputs go to starting battery, and both 12v trolling batteries. Just to be clear you wouldn't connect the batteries directly in series, so you'd have three 12v batteries. This is a complex approach, but it's probably the best of all options with no real limitations.

 

Another simpler approach, is to use either a single 24 charger or a 2 bank 12v charger that is powered by an auxiliary source. Realistically this source would have to be your starting battery. You'd use a 2 input/1 output isolator to connect both outboards to charge your starting battery. You'd power a small inverter from your starting battery to run the charger. With this setup, you'd sort of be "robbing Peter to pay Paul". The drawback here is if you're not careful you could drain your starting battery low enough that it wouldn't start your main at the end of the day. You could add a smart controller to prevent your starting battery voltage from dropping below a certain point, but this adds to complexity and cost.

 

My final thought would be to use a 24v solar charger. This would be the simplest, but it would take up deck space and realistically not provide anywhere near as much charging wattage as the other options.

 

If it were me, given your very occasional extra need I'd just use another 24 series connected battery pair and connect the second pair to the first pair with parallel connections.

 

________________________

Owner John's Custom Rods

Specializing in building Great Lakes trolling rods since 1979

First place winner of the 2016 World Rod Building Challenge

 

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I have a Minn Kota MK-3 that charges the trolling batteries while your main motor (or kicker possibly) is running and charging the system. I haven't used it yet, but might if I ever install the Maxxum Pro 101 36V that sits in my garage.....the thing is a beast.
IMG_4674.JPGIMG_4675.JPG


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I have a Minn Kota MK-3 that charges the trolling batteries while your main motor (or kicker possibly) is running and charging the system. I haven't used it yet, but might if I ever install the Maxxum Pro 101 36V that sits in my garage.....the thing is a beast.
IMG_4674.thumb.JPG.2887391d2e75cc6755be140dc9d82be4.JPGIMG_4675.thumb.JPG.ba388387b141cd34042f434f101b1528.JPG


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The kicker's alternator output is insufficient to run this. 3 banks at 10 amps per bank is 30 amps at 12v. You can't put, for example a kicker's 10 amps at 12v in and get 30 amps at 12v out.

This is designed to be connected to the boats main outboard. It would only be useful if you frequently started up the main to run to a new spot.

It isn't going to lengthen trolling time on a boat that makes one long troll without running the main.


________________________
Owner John's Custom Rods
Specializing in building Great Lakes trolling rods since 1979
First place winner of the 2016 World Rod Building Challenge
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The kicker's alternator output is insufficient to run this. 3 banks at 10 amps per bank is 30 amps at 12v. You can't put, for example a kicker's 10 amps at 12v in and get 30 amps at 12v out.

This is designed to be connected to the boats main outboard. It would only be useful if you frequently started up the main to run to a new spot.

It isn't going to lengthen trolling time on a boat that makes one long troll without running the main.


________________________
Owner John's Custom Rods
Specializing in building Great Lakes trolling rods since 1979
First place winner of the 2016 World Rod Building Challenge

Very true. Designed for long runs with the primary motor. Didn't think about the alternator output when I made that comment.


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Why not just add a battery switch


How would a battery switch allow a kicker's 12v alternator to charge a 24v battery bank while both are being used?


________________________
Owner John's Custom Rods
Specializing in building Great Lakes trolling rods since 1979
First place winner of the 2016 World Rod Building Challenge
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I don't think the original poster has room to permanently install an additional 24 volt pair so there wouldn't be any need for a switch. He could just use a portable 24v pair when needed and attach it in parallel to the installed pair with jumpers.

 

Even if installed permanently, there's no benefit for a battery switch if he were to set up a 4 battery series/parallel circuit. They could all drain down at the same time rather than 1 pair at a time.

 

 

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