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Boat and trailer mods


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Ok guys the season is comming to an end and I've got some plans for the off season with mods to boat. Was hoping some of you guys have done them too and would be willing to share some pics or ideas.

 

First is the electric winch on the trailer. I need to get power to the rear of the truck or front of boat so I don't need extra battery. I am thinking about running power from truck to back and putting a nice quick connect mounted in bumper like the trailer lights just for the winch. Anyone done this or any reccomndations on other ideas or type of connections.

 

Another thing I am going to do is put solar panels on the roof to charge a battery bank. I figured once I put the kicker on I will lose my charging system for my electronics (radio ff riggers cell charger pumps ect). I know I have seen some talking about this here and tried to search it with no luck. I have not started my research yet on it so am hoping someone can steer me in good direction.

 

I'd also like to put auto pilot on the kicker as my wife hates driving (lol) and I plan to fish with her and kids more than ever next year so I'd like to make it as comfortable as possible. That being said my main motor has auto pilot so will that still work with the Ezsteer system or will I need a separate unit for the kicker? I'd like to have them hooked together for using the wheel for turns and whatnot.

 

As long as the boats trip to Mr Hank goes as I hope (will run ideas by him as well) I will be keeping this boat long term and want to do it right the first time so hope some of you can help get me on the right track. Thanks in advance guys

 

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We put a solar panel on our roof. It came with a tender so it won't discharge batteries when it's dark out. We've had it for 3 years, no issues at all!


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What brand? Could you by chance snap a few pics of your set up? I'd love to see it.

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  For your electric winch get one big enough( DD Litton 9,000 works for my 22 Grady) so you don't have to double up the line.  I ran my # 10 gage wires right off my truck battery with a breaker right on the pos. post along the frame right into a regular plastic house outlet box & a house 15 amp outlet which is mounted on the trailer hitch next to the receiver covered with a snap tight spring loaded outdoor outlet cover. Then I put a 3 prong electrical plug on the wire going to the winch connector., like an extension cord about 6-7' long. when using it I just plug it in on both ends & it works great!  When not in use I coil it up & put it in the truck.  Make sure you keep track of the + & - all the way through! I have moved & used this set up on 3 different trucks so far.  jmo good luck.

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  For your electric winch get one big enough( DD Litton 9,000 works for my 22 Grady) so you don't have to double up the line.  I ran my # 10 gage wires right off my truck battery with a breaker right on the pos. post along the frame right into a regular plastic house outlet box & a house 15 amp outlet which is mounted on the trailer hitch next to the receiver covered with a snap tight spring loaded outdoor outlet cover. Then I put a 3 prong electrical plug on the wire going to the winch connector., like an extension cord about 6-7' long. when using it I just plug it in on both ends & it works great!  When not in use I coil it up & put it in the truck.  Make sure you keep track of the + & - all the way through! I have moved & used this set up on 3 different trucks so far.  jmo good luck.
Awesome...i have the winch on boat already and has the connector to winch to battery but as of now I need to haul extra batt....how did you attach the box outlet to reciever?

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  My outlet is next to the  hole that you put your safety chain into on the receiver  just to the side of it about an 1" away from it . I just drilled a couple holes through back of the plastic box & attached with self taping screws. the outlet faces out towards the back. I would guess you could mount it any where that is convenient & easy to get at.  If I knew how to do the pic thing I would post it  or I could text it to you. check your pm for my # if you want.  send me your #

Edited by lineman49
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Why don't you buy a kicker with a charging system?  It seems like that would solve your issues with charging while fishing.  Auto-pilots also will consume a fair amount of power as well depending on how rough it is and how active the AP has to work on any given day.  Charging systems on the Yamaha Hugh Thrusts and Merc Pro-kickers put out like 10-15 amps...

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Why don't you buy a kicker with a charging system?  It seems like that would solve your issues with charging while fishing.  Auto-pilots also will consume a fair amount of power as well depending on how rough it is and how active the AP has to work on any given day.  Charging systems on the Yamaha Hugh Thrusts and Merc Pro-kickers put out like 10-15 amps...
What's the cost difference between one with or without charge system. Unfortunately I will not be buying a new kicker but a used one hopefully. Would like to stay around a grand on that purchase

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Honestly - I don't know.   A few years back a brand new Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust was around $2500 new which included forward controls, electric start/trim and obviously charging system.   I would think if you looked you could find one for a grand give or take...

 

Have to look at how much you run and what power consumed by everything is when you are fishing - chartplotters, fish finders, speed/temp probes, bilge pumps, stereo, washdown pumps, riggers, etc.  I'm not sure what you are running, but without charging it doesn't take long for batteries to get drawn down under these conditions...

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You could look at the current draw for all of the items that run continuously, that's the baseline and then make some assumptions about the other stuff - should be able to get a ballpark number you can go off of.  I honestly just don't think you will be able to make-do without charging for any length of time, and if your main starts off of the batteries everything else runs off of - that could spell trouble. 

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Have to figure out where you are going to mount it - most kickers are 20" shaft - mount it as low as possible without swamping it.  The brackets that can lift the kicker up when you are running are ideal. 
Currently has the kicker plate mounted goes up and down. Is there a measurement I should take to check?8ff780ef2a949f3aa3dab8e3aee70076.jpg

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Assuming your outdrive is submerged - a 20" shaft looks like it would work just fine in that application.  What's distance from where it mounts to say bottom of the trim tab - you definitely want the prop for the kicker in clean water below the hull if possible.  I am guessing in the pic the bracket is in the "down" position based on where the bottom paint is applied...

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Assuming your outdrive is submerged - a 20" shaft looks like it would work just fine in that application.  What's distance from where it mounts to say bottom of the trim tab - you definitely want the prop for the kicker in clean water below the hull if possible.  I am guessing in the pic the bracket is in the "down" position based on where the bottom paint is applied...
Yea I don't know if it's all the way down I'll look at it and snap a pic when I can later...appreciate all your help

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought a kicker for my new boat, and unfortunately it does not have a charging system. It's a 2015 tohatsu 9.8. but, my boat has two deep cycle batteries that can be selected in parallel via a switch. I have trolled with my autopilot for 6 hours many times with no problems yet. I always charge both batteries the night before. Solar may be a good option, but so far not necessary.


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