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Wider gunnels


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Wider gunnels

As some of you know, I've had lots of time to think, I'm going to redo the floor on my boat, but one thing that really disappoints me about my boat is I don't have the fishing version of the Sea Ray. So my gunnel tops are only like 2-21/2 inches wide so all I mount on the gunnels I have to make brackets for, I was on Taco website thinking maybe they had a solution but nothing they have a rolled edge pieces of aluminum, and the tracks systems are drilled at 1-1/2"s apart with brackets to go underneath, but that's not going to work either. I have put supports under the gunnels to stop the flexing. I fiberglassed blocks underneath. The only thing I can come up with is to add either a 1 piece of 1-1/2 wood and fiberglass it to the inside of the gunnels or I saw on line where they used strips of 3/8" marine plywood to make up the difference but that was so they could follow a contours, I have straight shot about 6 ft. I was thinking to keep a tad lower and build it up with the matting and resins, but I'm going to have sand off the clear coat and paint on the inside edge, do you think I need to attach it to the topside of the gunnels also? I can't be the only person that bought a pleasure craft instead of a fishing boat with the wider gunnel tops. Appreciate any thoughts, PAP

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If it were me Mike I would make it just wide enough to fit a berts type track down it and I would mount a track the whole 6 feet.

mine is wide enough that I can mount a berts style track and that's my plan this winter, tracks down both sides.

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I had the same problem on my Lund Tyee II. What I did was have a machine shop make me custom mounting tracks to fit my gunnels. Mine were 3 inches wide though.


That’s what I’m going to do. I have a CNC knee mill in my garage. My plan is to make a Bert’s style track down both sides and across the back corners. Then make some custom rod holders for my dipsy rods and some triple trees for my plainer rods.


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Yea that might be easier if I add an 1-1/2 to the inside, then I could use a tracks of something normal that everything fits with no having to modify every time, good idea. TACO makes a 3 or 4" rolled edge in 6ft sections, but why couldn't a machine shop do the same??

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Yea that might be easier if I add an 1-1/2 to the inside, then I could use a tracks of something normal that everything fits with no having to modify every time, good idea. TACO makes a 3 or 4" rolled edge in 6ft sections, but why couldn't a machine shop do the same??

I’m going to try to make mine after hunting season, I’ll post some pictures when I start the build.


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One thing you could do is mount rails (tubes) to your gunnel.  Rails have a smaller mount footprint.  Then you are free to mount rail-mounted rod holders or rail-mounted tracks.  Redundant and perhaps expensive, yes, but allows more versatility and might look better.  How long are your gunnels?. 

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About 6ft

2 hours ago, LakerTaker said:

One thing you could do is mount rails (tubes) to your gunnel.  Rails have a smaller mount footprint.  Then you are free to mount rail-mounted rod holders or rail-mounted tracks.  Redundant and perhaps expensive, yes, but allows more versatility and might look better.  How long are your gunnels?. 

 About 5-6 foot more towards the 5ft mark.

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11 hours ago, jimski2 said:

Gunnels? Gunwales.

 

What are you saying? We are all wrong with the word Gunnel? I wish I was smart like jimski... Maybe check a dictionary before falsely correcting others' English?

 

Oops, I think I just fell into the troll's trap...

 

Hey Pap, ever think of making a raised track system? I'm putting one together now on an older Grady I purchased using Traxstech trolling bar lengths. You could use any brand trolling bar though and custom make the mounting plates on the bottom of the stanchions to match your gunnel size maybe. As long as the mounting surface is solid and you use good backers it should be fine.

 

Might be a bit expensive, but you can find the bars used if you look long and hard enough (which I think you do). This way you have only couple or a few attachment points instead of drill holes every 12" on a 6 foot track. Probably depends too on your freeboard on your boat, don't want to get too high up with everything. I personally like my gear up high though. Less bending over and more freeboard isn't always a bad thing.

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Well, I never gave that a thought, I have glassed the free board by the shifter because I removed that padding shyt and that was fastened poorly from the factory. I guess the right word would be "gussets" :lol: I have glassed in from the shift lever to the transom to sturdy it up. Especially up near the front where I put my planer board trees at. I felt there was way to much flex and that really stiffened it up!! So your idea just might be the ticket. There is a really good machine shop litterly 1/2 mile from my house. I'm sure I could come up with something with that in mind. Maybe a 1" square up right with a 3/8 bolt through the center with a 3"T = a 3" platform?? The rod holders I just got from Bruce has a raised base or 2 heavy screws fasten it flush. Thanks guys really appreciate the great idea

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That’s a great idea Tyee has. I did the same thing to my 16ft Sea Sprite 2 years ago. I waited until I found a 1/2 price deal on EBay for a Traxstech Board, and a friend gave me a Bert’s Board for the other side. I mainly wanted to replace the rails of my boat with usable lengths of downrigger boards to hold rod holders. My gunnels are narrower than a track section....but work fine for mounting 6” riser tracks.
IMG_6796.PNGIMG_6797.PNG


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Holy crap!! That's exactly what I have, the top is like a 1-1/2--2" wide that's great. I'll have to do a exact measurement and get some exact measurements from traxtech, which outfit do you believe has the best set up?? Traxtech, Cisco, thought there was a guy on here that does a great job!! Laker how did you fasten your uprights, just in the middle on each side of the up right. Right now I have made plates 1-1/2 and then made the plate to fit whatever the baseplate of what the rod holders were. This idea has left hip high pants pocket grabbers or bruised hips, plus black & blue belly marks, especially me as my meds have made a shed  roof for my tools:lol: thank you for the pics!! I don't have a very good mind to picture an idea without making it them hold it there, then I know what I have to do to make it better or leave it alone. Thank you guys so much. Especially during this time of difficulty with my father in law passing on. This gives my mind something else to think about.... PAP, aka Mike.

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PAP- My gunnels are a bit wider than yours. I’m using standard 6” long tracks and the bolt hole spacing is 1.5”. I drilled pilot holes and used stainless steel screws into the gunnels. Very solid. The downrigger board is an aluminum extrusion and is the same on both sides. The risers slide in the track and tighten with tightening bolts. See pic of the underside of the Bert’s board. The Traxstech (Pursuit) board had the same mounting method. The traxstech board comes in 2 - 4ft sections which are joined by a plate underneath. You might be able to get away with a 4ft section on each side of your boat. I bought the third riser for each side from Big Papa Sportfishing Products. They have good pricing. When you buy a board, it usually comes with 2 risers. I’m sure Traxstech or Cisco would be willing to work with you to make what you need. I could also machine special mounts for you as needed. IMG_6814.thumb.JPG.e7f8dcc1d05ec3e8cb7138089d304273.JPG

 

 

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I measured the very top of the gunnels and they measured 2" as I was winterizing my boat with a drop cord and a compressor with a air nozzle to blow the water out, removed water pump hose and power steering cooler lose, blew that out. So yea I'm stuck with the risers idea, seems like Cisco and Berts are on the same page. I'm going to make a phone call to both outfits see what they might come up with!!

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