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4 stroke kickers winterizing


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I always say there’s no such thing as a stupid question to the newbies!! So here’s my question when winterizing a 4 stroke. Are the smaller motors needing to have the thermostat drained or are they like a 2 stroke, just stand them up and they self drain. I have my new to me Merc 15hp 4stroke different? Just thought about this as OL’Man Winter is making his way down here and I don’t want to have to repair after my super deal I made!! Need some info here guys!! Not much info on this on the winterizing of a different critter to me!!  Need some advice!! PAP

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i had 2 stroke kicker a long time and last fall i bought a 8 hp tohatsu 4 stoke witch was seen running before i bought it of course . i put the motor on a stand hook up the ear muffs ran the motor to get it  nice and warm . after warmed up i unplug the fuel line witch the gas was treated for storage . as the motor was running out of gas i sprayed engine fog threw the crab intake to it stop running .took of the muffs and took the plugs out and turn the kicker motor over for a couple minutes. sprayed engine fog in each cylinder turn over a bit and put new plugs in . change the engine oil and lower unit oil . covered it standing up right all was find came spring so did the same this year . i haven't done any thing with the thermostat in any of the kickers i have owned in 30 years for the winter storage . so i'm curious to see what a marine mechanic will say on this 

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Thanks guys I’ll let this post ride awhile and hopefully others chime in and 100% clarify that there’s no specific way of doing things.!! The guy I bought it off showed me the paperwork that the break in oil was changed a new impeller and lower unit oil was changed. The last the motor ran was in August, I hauled it home on the back seats of my Expedition, then put it on a stand and there it is.?? 

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I have 2015 Merc 15hp Big Foot. For the winter storage I change the oil and gear lube. Take it off the boat, mount it onto my stand and put it in my heated garage. The only part that sucks is it weighs 138lbs and its a bich to lift it on and off the transom by myself. Haven't had any problems in the spring when I go to use it.

Boat Safe

Egoody

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Operating your outboard without a water source will damage the rubber impeller in your cooling water pump. A quick crank it over seems to have worked for me for years now. I have never fogged the engine ever and got away with that. My old Evinrude 90 HP lasted 26 years now. Still I installed a new Mercury 90 HP four stroke last fall. I hope it will last half as long. Many trips on the lower Niagara in below freezing conditions had no damage as the engine drained at the ramp and a quick crank over cleared any possible freezing water sites.

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Thanks that’s about what I thought, but wanted to hear from those that own them. Mine is on a stand in the garage also. Thank you for the info I really appreciate it. Looking forward to the 2018 season and don’t need anymore headaches than I already have.:lol:

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I also run RV antifreeze thru the ear muffs. I bought a very large storage bin, a cheap 110V submersible pump  and I put a 5 gallon pail in the bin...fill the 5 gallon pail with Non-Alcohol RV antifreeze and put pump in 5 gallon pail...turn on engine...turn on pump and now the RV antifreeze flows thru engine and recycles in large bin. Filter out bin and you can reuse RV antifreeze. I have tried the Camco DIY motor winterizer kit and it does not work as good as this set-up.    

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Thank guys I really appreciate your input. One other thing I’m a little concerned about is the fuel in the carb. I can’t remember if the guy used a stabilizer in the fuel, how Can I do this with out firing the motor up?? I need to get the right connecter to replace my old style fuel connector, the man wanted to keep the 3 gallon tank, so I don’t have the correct fuel line connector. Could I just put straight stabilizer into the carb using the ball to push stabilizer into it?? Will that get into all the nooks and crannies of the carb. Thanks for any input. PAP

Edited by pap
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