superhawk18

Leadcore 832 12# to 15# seaguar leader - knot question

Recommended Posts

Good Day, 

 

Been searching and have multiple you tube videos. I can not get this connection to hold. Threading the flouro leader into the LC sheath is not going to happen due to similar size, no willis knot option, and old guy eyes! What would be my second choice of knots/connections? 

 

Looking to run about 35 feet of leader.

1- Albright seems to slip....

2- If I strip back to just sheath, to try to utilize a palomar knot to a swivel, the sharp edge of the lead can be felt just below the knot, it will wear I am sure

3- If I strip back and try Uni-Uni - same thing with the lead trying to break through the sheath

4- I can either tie direct or use a swivel, no preference 

 

Thanks, Dave

 

 

Edited by superhawk18

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Legacy, understand, unable to thread leader into LC, as mentioned above due to similar line size. Hoping for a second best choice at this point. Just tried a modified cinch knot to a SPRO swivel for the lead core side. Seems to hold up from what I can tell with a simple hard pull. Still hoping for additional guidance

Edited by superhawk18
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use uni knot to small spro swivel then uni knot the leader to the spro,  I have not had that connection fail yet.  I realize that the lead will poke out a little on the leadcore but that has not been an issue.

Edited by Fishmaster 196
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was thinking Palomar without removing the lead and also for leader. SPRO #8 in between.

Edited by superhawk18

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I was thinking Palomar without removing the lead and also for leader. SPRO #8 in between.


Remove the lead. It does nothing to help you and might actually hinder you.

Sent from my XT1585 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does it matter how close I get the knot to the point were the lead stops? I suppose the closer the better, but I still feel like the lead is going to break through the nylon sheathing.

 

Thanks All for the feedback, Dave 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, Legacy said:

 


Remove the lead. It does nothing to help you and might actually hinder you.

Sent from my XT1585 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

 

 

Yes by all means remove the lead which is one hell of a pain in the ass. It’s not like the older style where you can push the sheathing up with no problem, this stuff is a real peach to deal with, personally, I don’t know if I’ll ever use it again. I use the #10 SPRO barrel it’s rated at 35# never had a issue,  the #8 SPRO doesn’t fit  through all the reel guides, the #8 is rated for 50#’s, I use a Palomar knot that’s been working for years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks All.........just don't want to loose any of those precious fish!.......

 

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remove lead. Tie uni to uni knot. No issues. Have 9 leadcores tied this way last 5 years and have held up to surprise Spring Kings with no problem. Never seen lead come through. Solid knot and no annoying swivel to deal with.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I routinely use the #8 Spros Pap but I have slightly (and carefully) opened up the line guide on a number of my reels. It is easier to tie knots with the #8's and they offer a little more insurance with kings:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
50 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

I routinely use the #8 Spros Pap but I have slightly (and carefully) opened up the line guide on a number of my reels. It is easier to tie knots with the #8's and they offer a little more insurance with kings:)

 

Yea, that’s a good idea Les!! I never thought about that!! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i switch to the micro lead  last year . like you said had same issue. i did the same as above post have said . i too had the  lead poke through the sheathing . after getting the lead back in side the sheathing i used gorilla super glue that stop the lead from poking out .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

heat shrink at end of lead stops it from poking through

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are unable to thread it, I pull 6" of lead out of the sheath, tie a uni to uni with the sheath and floro. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Vision quest charters has a video I watched. It was a pretty simple knot and holds. I use a modified version of the uni to uni knot and definitely remove lead.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don’t worry about a bit of lead. Pull it out and tie a uni to uni knots. I have 8 to 10 set up this way.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Legacy, understand, unable to thread leader into LC, as mentioned above due to similar line size. Hoping for a second best choice at this point. Just tried a modified cinch knot to a SPRO swivel for the lead core side. Seems to hold up from what I can tell with a simple hard pull. Still hoping for additional guidance


Use a pin that are used to stuff turkey to open up leadcore sheath to insert your leader. Willis knot is best.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A lot of anglers especially in Ohio are using in line weights instead of lead core. With side planers the need for extreme long leads from the boat checking your lines is a lot faster and happens more often.. They are producing good catch rates without the time consuming reeling to bring in the lead core rigs. Consider changing your ways. We caught fish before lead core came around so faster setups and quicker catching is available.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
A lot of anglers especially in Ohio are using in line weights instead of lead core. With side planers the need for extreme long leads from the boat checking your lines is a lot faster and happens more often.. They are producing good catch rates without the time consuming reeling to bring in the lead core rigs. Consider changing your ways. We caught fish before lead core came around so faster setups and quicker catching is available.

 

Leadcores are still more reproduceable in presentation. Sounds like the wrong reels are being used here. Daiwa Saltist reels have 35" retrieve per handle crank (size 30) for short cores 2-3-4 color and 47.2" retrieve per handle crank (size 40) for medium cores 5-6-7-8 color... if you have never had the opportunity to get behind one of these fine pieces of machinery, you are missing out!

 

In line weights also require the annoyance and hassle of dealing with their removal at the boat while fighting the fish. Not saying this can't be perfected with a mature crew, but it adds risk to your catch rate that you cannot discount.

 

Personally, repeatability is king once you've dialed something in for the day. Cores give you that repeatability and confidence.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am fishing both leadcores and snap on weights this year. I have had great success with three colors off the down riggers. Must be the side to side action. Snap on weights will be new to the arsenal. Thanks again for the advice on the original post!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, FleetTracker said:

 

Leadcores are still more reproduceable in presentation. Sounds like the wrong reels are being used here. Daiwa Saltist reels have 35" retrieve per handle crank (size 30) for short cores 2-3-4 color and 47.2" retrieve per handle crank (size 40) for medium cores 5-6-7-8 color... if you have never had the opportunity to get behind one of these fine pieces of machinery, you are missing out!

 

In line weights also require the annoyance and hassle of dealing with their removal at the boat while fighting the fish. Not saying this can't be perfected with a mature crew, but it adds risk to your catch rate that you cannot discount.

 

Personally, repeatability is king once you've dialed something in for the day. Cores give you that repeatability and confidence.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

 

 

Jimski is talking about inline weights. A lot of Walleye guys throughout the lake use inline wieght tied 10 ft or so above a crawler harness. It creates a more consistent depth control and requires less line to produce the same depth especially with heavy weights up to 8 ounces. 

 

With that being said I have fished with my dad and two grandfathers whom have fished both Great Lakes since they have been in there 30’s. The water clarity on both Great Lakes has created a much more efficient and educated generation of anglers. Segmented leadcore programs fished of a variation of planer applications is hands downs the most productive method of catching Walleye in Erie. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the Alberto Knot to join Suffix 832 LC to fluoro leader. Remove about 6” of lead and then use the LC sheath to tie the knot onto the fluoro. Strongest knot I’ve used and hasn’t failed. It is also very low profile and glides through the rod guides!
Good luck !
Mike




Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.