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DIY Worm Harness Questions

Todd in NY

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I’ve had great success with these hatchet blades. In my favorite color, gold of course. I’ll see if I can remember where I got them at. If you use quick change clevises, you can have less harnesses and just switch out the blades. Much neater than having pool noodles bouncing around everywhere.

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Your local craft shop is a great place for beads of all colors and sizes.  I prefer to use heavier line.  I like clear 25lb Big Game about 18" with a red #4 octopus trailing hook and a black  #2 octopus leading hook spaced about 3'' apart.   I then use a 17lb

Fluro leader  about a foot shorter than  your rod.  I too use a plastic change out clevis.  I have experienced failure with metal clevises on commercial tied harnesses with heavy line.  Theory is the metal creates friction and weakens the line. but have never  had a problem plastic.  You can make a simple jig out of a board and a couple of nails so you get your hooks spaced the same. Drive a couple nails in a board 3 to 3 1/2'' apart, snell  your trailer hook, slip it over first nail and slide line thru the leading hook and position the bend of the lead hook around the 2nd nail hold in place and finish your snell.  Finish off with a surgeons knot.  You can also use a size 6 or 8 treble as a trailing hook.  Good luck

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You also will learn to master the snell knot to tie your own rigs and if you're bottom bouncing in zebra mussel waters you want to keep checking the line near and between your hooks for nicks.  I bottom bounce a lot in lakes with zebras and will usually have to break apart rigs at the end of the day and retie the components on a fresh setup due to damage.  It sucks breaking off a nice eye that's on the trailing hook because you're line is nicked and if you hang up a rig on rock check the hook points for rolling.  Lost a few eyes that way also.  I usually use Gammy or VMC octopus hooks.  

Edited by slipbob
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