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At the oak today i saw some people fly fishing, and it looked fun and different. I understand there is a 'weight' and a length for a fly rod. What are good stats for an all-purpose setup? I understand a higher weight is probably for a stiffer action, but i dont know where to start...

Thanks,

Matt

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With Kings still in the water an #8 or even #9 weight might be the way to go. As the kings die off or get spent you can get away with #7, #6, or even #5 weight when targeting browns and steelhead in late October into November. Where you are fishing matters. I would never take my 5# weight to fish the Niagara. The fish get in that heavy current and bye-bye. I would fish the heavier sticks in tight crowded streams to help control fish and not anger fellow anglers. Different manufacturers have different flex in their blanks. A Sage will have a softer backbone than a Thomas and Thomas. How much wind exposure? If you are making long casts in places where the wind can blow like the Cattaurgus, then go heavier. Lots to think about. Best all around to start hitting tribs for trout........a seven weight IMO. And you are correct about it being fun, especially when you catch a fish on one of your own patterns. :D

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  • 2 years later...

For river fishing I like a 8 weight middle of the road for steel and salmon . I usually go up in one weight class for the fly line, seems to load up the rod and casts better in wind. just my opinion buy a higher end rod with a warranty, just a matter of time before you break a rod in a car door, tree,fish. ......

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Different manufacturers have different flex in their blanks. A Sage will have a softer backbone than a Thomas and Thomas. How much wind exposure?

This is true to a point. Not trying to take away from what you said Gill-T, just trying to help.

There is no set standard in the industry for "flex indes" (how much bend is in the rod). The different name brands all do different things to help explain this. There are 3 basic flexes. You typically hear them refered to as a "fast" "medium" or "slow" rods. Orvis lays this out extremely easily. They range from roughly a 6.0 to a 10.0. They may go higher or lower then this, but these are the common ones. A 6.0 is refered to as a soft (slow) rod. This means it will bend more easily, and closer to the base of the rod. This is good if you are a person who is more patient and likes to have those big long open loops. This type of rod can also be good for things such as Steelhead, because of the extra flex the rod is able to provide more cushion to the tippet if a big fish decides to make a quick run. What you gain in tippet protection you lose in backbone. When you get on Orvis's higher end of the scale around 10.0 this becomes a "fast" rod. These are typically enjoyed more by Type A personalitys, people who aren't as patient. They will turn over a fly quicker in the air, and you need to be more active in your cast. They provide slightly less tippet protection, but give you more back bone to fight a strong fish. This all being said, I prefer to be in the middle. If you are anywhere near an Orvis store, or fly shop I would go talk to them. They will help you out incredibly. Sage or other manufactures don't do this flex index, however, Sage does make slow, to fast rods.

I hope this was some help. If anyone has anything to add feel free. I struggled with this concept for about a year before I finally understood what they meant. getting a fly rod can be difficult because of the huge varience in prices and the 30 different variables that goes into one, from size, to flex. My recommendation, would be a 9'6" 8 wt, with a medium flex. Orvis makes a really good rod called the clearwater that is affordable. A good beginners rod. Also, I bought a reddington 6 months back. This way 170 dollars, but I have loved it. The downside is not having a warranty. The day you break a rod without a warranty you won't be a happy camper.

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If you plan on fishing 18 mile, the Oak or a similar size stream, I'd go with a 7 or 8 wt. If you like light action go with the 7wt. It will have just enough backbone for a large salmon and perfect (IMO) for steelhead. As others said, buy a rod with a warranty. I use a 9 ft 7wt for most great lakes applications, occasionally I'll use my 5wt for browns, but it's too light for kings when there's a croud (almost always at either stream).

Go bigger if you plan on fishing bigger water. I would also suggest a large arbor reel. They pick line up alot faster and give you a smoother drag (IMO). Also get one with plenty of backing capacity. I've seen more than one king running down the oak pulling a full fly line with backing and no angler attached to the other end! I personally would spend more on the reel than the rod to get a better drag if you are king fishing.

One word of advice if fishing the crouds, get in rythym with the other fishermen. Cast when the guy next to you casts and drift while he drifts. It sounds simple enough, but there's always a knucklehead in the crowd tangling everyone up by trying to cast over the guy next to him instead of waiting a couple seconds to cast in rhythym.

Good luck.

Jeff

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Go bigger if you plan on fishing bigger water. I would also suggest a large arbor reel. They pick line up alot faster and give you a smoother drag (IMO). Also get one with plenty of backing capacity. Jeff

Really good advice. The first time you catch a fish with a good large arbor reel you will wonder why you ever used anything else.

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  • 1 month later...

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