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I just bought it before I went up and put it it on. It was pline Fluoro coated mono. Like I sai when trolling I just stopped the reals from clicking after I lost the first one
I use the same thing with only one rig lost in the last 2 years. Not sure the issue.

Silverfoxcharters.net

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It may just be that the particular spool of line is bad. When line is purchased either online or in the store it is not necessarily NEW line despite being sold as such, nor is there any guarantee that it has been taken care of. For example, it may have been in a store or warehouse someplace where there was excessive heat or direct sunlight on the package. UV rays can do a heck of a lot of damage without being seen too. Maybe experiment by using 40 or 50 lb from a different place and see how that does if you like that brand/type of line.

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Like Scott says, we've used the same setup as you for years, running double wire divers as our go-to, with nary a break-off and hundreds of fish boated. I literally can't remember the last time we actually had a fish snap the line...although we've had plenty that threw the hook. We use snubbers, but others don't and I'm not sure it matters. We do employ a good ball bearing swivel to prevent line twist, which I suspect could impact its breaking strength.

 

On this occasion I disagree with Brian, as I feel that 50 lb test is harder for the average angler to tie good knots and doesn't impart as much action to spoons. But he catches more fish than me, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.

 

I'm going to bet you got a bad spool of line. Of course, that's if you're always breaking at the leader. If you're breaking at the wire, then you're either kinking your line or it's getting bound on itself, likely from being wound on without enough tension, and no leader's going to amend that.

 

Keep it tight (my version of tight lines, ala Workaholics, as applies to wire)

Edited by Gator
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I've listened to way more sticky drags than smooth ones over the years.... probably a combination of many factors, but point is Kings will let you know if you arent doing something right.

As far as tying knots in heavy leader material goes the seaguar premier with a little stretch and thinner diameter ties easier than the blue label. I definitely prefer it though I have to say the blue label is great as well just harder to work with...

Sent from my E6810 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Have found this year.....the season of the king....constantly changing leaders because of rubbing against wire during battles. Most of the time I would swear the line never got into the wire before netting but you never know what happens to the line after the initial strike and run up towards the surface. I will routinely walk off my wire at the local school soccer field to lay the wire back on tight and even on my dipsy reels. I will find all kinds of kinks 50-150’ back on the wire that indicate our gear gets together more than we think. I was also finding my mono leaders I was clamping a slide diver on was getting a pinch from the two sharp rumble strips the clamp arm pushes the line against. The issue is not 30 lb test IMO. Check your gear!

Edited by Gill-T
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/3/2018 at 7:11 AM, hookedupf7 said:

I am using 30 lb p line mono with wire. 

 

THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM:  P-line absolutely sux.  I have used the light stuff for browns and it snaps, and the heavy for kings and even the 30lb is garbage.  Throw it away and save $ on lost gear.  Big game!! 30-40#

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IMO,

I have tried Seaguar, great line too expensive

I have tried Berkley big game; this stuff is ROPE! 20# big game is as thick as 40# fluorocarbon, and yes line diameter does matter when running spoons. (try this on your own, put that same spoon on two rods, one big game the other a thinner diameter line. Hold the two out and watch the difference, the spoon can only do what its physical limits are, a smaller diameter line cuts the water easier and allows for more water to hit the spoon causing more action; more action means more fish!)

I personally prefer 20# Berkley Vanish Fluorocarbon in the blue box, the Berkley gold I do not like

Seaguar Fluoro is $26.99 for 200 yds, Berkley Vanish is $15.49 for 250yds; HOWEVER having said that big game is half the price or less than those previously listed

I fish Lake Huron, we face a very clear clean lake with great depth visibility so stealth is key so fluoro is a must

I have fished Lake O and had 15fish days of 20#ers and no issues with 20#.

Again snubbers are a must, big game is mono and does stretch, fluorocarbon does stretch a slight bit but very little

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you have other issues, I use 25 # no snubber and never have had a break-off. Your technique is wrong somewhere. The right pole has the right give, the right reel has drags that can do the job, the right setting on the drag will not get broken off. somewhere you have a problem in this system.

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My rods are 9.5 long ugly stick med light. Cabelas gold series reels. With brand new wire


Are you setting the poles so they are at a 90^to the pull of the wire? Normally this spot is 90 out the side of the boat so poles can bend max amount on fish strike. Are your drags Smooth ( even good reels can be or go bad). Do you set the drag just tight enough to keep wire from coming out? Just son starting points here.


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A screaming King will put your drags to the test... I would look into a better reel imo. I ran into a similar issue a few years ago when I was using Okuma Magda Reels for my wire setups, I upgraded the reels and haven't had a break off since. I run 9'6 MH Diawa Wilderness rods, Okuma Coldwater 303 reels, 12" DW snubber and 30lb Seaguar STS Flouro line. I run my drags as loose as I can, a click every minute or so is good imo, more when conditions are rougher.

Edited by FishingFool34
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  • 7 months later...
I will definitely go heavier leader next time. 7 fish are swimming with ff still in em
I think someone should mention knots. You must tie a great knot with these Kings. I use Palomar knots for terminations. Albright's for tying things together.

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