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Slide divers


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You can get beyond 50 feet with std weight and big ring pulling a spoon.  With a flasher fly then you might want to go with weight kit.  I run SD’s and 50 is the point I start thinking about adding the weight kit.  I always run a ring, but I know guys who do well without them.  Some of it is personal preference and how you like to see your rods load up.

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1 hour ago, mr 580 said:

You can get beyond 50 feet with std weight and big ring pulling a spoon.  With a flasher fly then you might want to go with weight kit.  I run SD’s and 50 is the point I start thinking about adding the weight kit.  I always run a ring, but I know guys who do well without them.  Some of it is personal preference and how you like to see your rods load up.

Ok. Thanks. With using wire do you know if that would still be about a 2-1 ratio ?

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If I’m only using one dip set a side and I’m going deeper than 50 I like to change the setting to a 2 or even a 1 that way I get a better depth curve and it enough line out that it still gets out away from the boat that way you don’t need the kit until you go real deep


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Using the standard weight I use more of 2.5 to a 3 to 1 ratio.  The 2 to 1 to me is for the ultimate weight.  I usually start a little high then let line out if the diver doesn’t go.  I have been using 40lb mono leader material for the diver to slide on-seems to hold up better tan the 30lb Big Game I used to use.  You’ll know when it starts to curl up at rod dip when you are setting leader length.

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4 minutes ago, mr 580 said:

Using the standard weight I use more of 2.5 to a 3 to 1 ratio.  The 2 to 1 to me is for the ultimate weight.  I usually start a little high then let line out if the diver doesn’t go.  I have been using 40lb mono leader material for the diver to slide on-seems to hold up better tan the 30lb Big Game I used to use.  You’ll know when it starts to curl up at rod dip when you are setting leader length.

Ok. Thanks for the info. Sounds like 1 set of weights for the deep divers for the summer. Plan is to run the deep divers around the depth of the riggers and the high divers a little higher just out of temp 

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On Lake O I’m pretty careful with currents before I run 2 divers per side.  If spread doesn’t square up I stick with one and honestly one usually gets job done.  Less seems to be more more often than not.  If you run 2 divers keep them at least 2 numbers apart and let them out slow.

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Dale, I wish I could get back to the Oak some but I stay busy down here between Chautauqua and Erie.  I like salmon fishing but from a business standpoint getting the guide license and working the home lake was a no brainer. Hope you are catching fish on those spoons I gave you.

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I have been attaching my slide divers on a mono leader also. One word of caution on using mono is I noticed the two rumble strips under the leader where the arm locks down will pinch the mono and leave a weak spot. I have since removed the rumble strips via a dremmel tool and a carbide bit. I won’t be able to lock onto braid now but don’t care.

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I have been attaching my slide divers on a mono leader also. One word of caution on using mono is I noticed the two rumble strips under the leader where the arm locks down will pinch the mono and leave a weak spot. I have since removed the rumble strips via a dremmel tool and a carbide bit. I won’t be able to lock onto braid now but don’t care.
Dont you use the surgical tubing there? Last year was my first year with them vs regular dipsys. I ran 40' 40# fluoro leads off of the wire

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Yes the surgical tubing around the release arm pressing down the mono leader against the “rumble strips”. You have to look really close to see the raised areas on the deck of the diver where the line comes out of the housing and again as the line enters back into the housing in the window where the exposed leader is squeezed by the release arm with surgical tubing. 

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13 minutes ago, Gill-T said:

Yes the surgical tubing around the release arm pressing down the mono leader against the “rumble strips”. You have to look really close to see the raised areas on the deck of the diver where the line comes out of the housing and again as the line enters back into the housing in the window where the exposed leader is squeezed by the release arm with surgical tubing. 

so perhaps I did it wrong or accidentally did it right but I pass the mono through the surgical tubing which sits in that area full time.   the release arm presses down on the surgical tubing.  Its a bit of a pain in the butt to originally feed it through but the mono is protected on both sides by the surgical tubing.  Anyway, if yours works for you....no worries. I was just trying to understand better.

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That set up might prevent the pinch.  Only one way to find out is to inspect your leader where you clamp the release down.  Thanks for posting the pic. Last year before removing the rumble strips on the decking, I was putting a small piece of 3M double-sided sticky pad on the deck for the line to rest on .....kind of similar to your set up with the line resting on something soft (tubing).  The idea is to protect your mono from repeated abuse from violent king hits and from tripping the diver.  I also did not want mono tied to wire so my set-ups are wire-to a small segment of braid-to mono leader-to a barrel swivel-to fluoro leader.  Sounds more complicated than it has  to be but there is a method to the madness and now proven from all the kings that tested the rigging last year.  Remember that record two year old class of kings are three years old this year.  All my gear is getting a look to get ready for the mayhem.  Hooks, split rings (esp on the mag dreamweaver spoons), leaders, wire etc.  

Edited by Gill-T
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That set up might prevent the pinch.  Only one way to find out is to inspect your leader where you clamp the release down.  Thanks for posting the pic. Last year before removing the rumble strips on the decking, I was putting a small piece of 3M double-sided sticky pad on the deck for the line to rest on .....kind of similar to your set up with the line resting on something soft (tubing).  The idea is to protect your mono from repeated abuse from violent king hits and from tripping the diver.  I also did not want mono tied to wire so my set-ups are wire-to a small segment of braid-to mono leader-to a barrel swivel-to fluoro leader.  Sounds more complicated than it has  to be but there is a method to the madness and now proven from all the kings that tested the rigging last year.  Remember that record two year old class of kings are three years old this year.  All my gear is getting a look to get ready for the mayhem.  Hooks, split rings (esp on the mag dreamweaver spoons), leaders, wire etc.  
Due to my paranoia i just checked and dont have any issues in the area i set the diver. Im with you on not tying wire to mono. Im using a barrel too but no braidIMG_20190126_075110.jpeg

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I'll share a couple pictures of my slide diver setups.  If you're fishing Lake Ontario exclusively the regular slide diver (no light bite arm)works fine- I run surgical tubing under the lock arm and add a couple of beads at back to protect the swivel knot.  I always run a leader back to the lure and I vary length depending on spoon or flasher fly.  

For light bites I add a short piece of the small clear tubing that comes with the diver to use with braid.  This slides over the light bite arm so your line doesn't fall out of the arm.  This tip is a time saver for setting lights as you don't have to watch or put line back in arm.   I also add a couple beads to protect that knot as well.  

With wire I add a small section of braid to attach the mono to slide on.  I put a drop of glue on the wire to braid knot to lock it.  For mono I'm using Maxima 40lb leader material which seems to hold up longer than the 30lb I used to use.  Mono leader is pretty reasonable in price for a coil of it.  These setups have worked well for me. Never had breakoff issues and only maintenance is changing the slide mono when it gets difficult to let out.

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