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Took a friend, his son-in-law and grandson out today. None of them had ever been salmon fishing before. Left the river at 7a and headed west, started in 100 fow. 2 riggers with spoons and cheaters, two dipsy's with flasher flies and one 300 copper down the chute with an MC rocket.

First hit was on the MC rocket and landed my friend his first 14lb King. Got the eight-year-old a little 10-pound king that he could handle on the down spoon at 60.

Then the frustration started when I tried to get the son-in-law hooked on a decent fish. got him hooked up on four absolute screamers on diver flies which all ended up breaking off. I lost about $50 worth of spin Doctors and flies today. Beyond frustrated. These fish were absolute Screamers. I just tied everything with new 20 lb seaguar blue. I guess I'll have to try using snubbers on the divers. I explained to him a number of times he couldn't horse the fish, And he had to let them run, so I think part of the issue was him horsing the fish and the wire that would not give. Drags were all set very loose on all the poles too. Very frustrated. Maybe I got a bad lot of leader?......imagejpeg_0.jpegimagejpeg_0_01~2.jpeg

 

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I’m only a 2nd year fisherman on the lake.  I run 40lb flouracarbon for dipsey leader. I had my first two break offs ever my first trip out this year and i blame it on trying to “thumb” the drag to slow them down.  They were screaming drag and as soon as I tried to slow them down it was over.  And also lost $50ish in gear.  Won’t do that again.  

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No snubbers..... I use 20lb fluoro for cheaters and when leadering down on rigger rods. 30 lb big game for FF and 40lb for diver with meat rigs .
I dont think the leader to a dipsy needs to be stealthy. You need the stretch of the mono with the wire setups.


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We use 20 lb for all leader without issue. But we do use snubbers.


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I guess I don’t see the need for 20lb fluoro when running FF and meat rigs that are tied with 50lb fluoro or heavy mono. Seems like an unnecessary risk


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Flasher Flies and meat rigs aren’t a stealthy presentation so a heavier leader 30 to 40lb is fine.  To me mono with some stretch might even be better than fluro leader.  I’ve found with inexperienced anglers that adding a clear snubber helped eliminate break offs too.

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YOU DON’T NEED FLUORO going to your flasher. You should be using at least 30lb mono to the flasher. The large swivel ring on flashers are too large to be tying 20 lb onto and expecting the knot to hold. 

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14 hours ago, Jeremy Goodison said:

No snubbers..... I use 20lb fluoro for cheaters and when leadering down on rigger rods. 30 lb big game for FF and 40lb for diver with meat rigs .
I dont think the leader to a dipsy needs to be stealthy. You need the stretch of the mono with the wire setups.


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X2   Using 40 or 50 lb Big Game (hard surface coating,,resists abrasion) mono instead of Fluoro for years no break offs. Each of these materials has its uses sometimes you don't want or need stretch  or else may need or desire "stealth" (supposedly less visible than mono underwater) up high or in really clear water. Each excels in different applications, i also tie my own flies with 50 lb. Big game again no break-offs and they run deep so no need for stealth and  you want a slight bit of stretch because of the wire main line..

Edited by Sk8man
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I noticed an Okuma Convector in the background. I found the drags on the convectors to be too sticky- not smooth enough for no-stretch wire rigs IMO. You may want to consider upgrading to Tekotas with Christmas approaching lol. 

Edited by Gill-T
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26 minutes ago, Gill-T said:

I noticed an Okuma Convector in the background. I found the drags on the convectors to be too sticky- not smooth enough for no-stretch wire rigs IMO. You may want to consider upgrading to Tekotas with Christmas approaching lol. 

Thanks! I have shimano Tyrnos reels for my rigger rods and really like the drags on them. Really my first year doing  this, will be upgrading piece by piece.

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I noticed an Okuma Convector in the background. I found the drags on the convectors to be too sticky- not smooth enough for no-stretch wire rigs IMO. You may want to consider upgrading to Tekotas with Christmas approaching lol. 

x2!!!!! I lost way too many due to jerky drags on convectors. Switched to tekotas and no problems since. Pricy but worth it if it’s in the budget!


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I had horrible luck with cold waters. Bought 4 when they came out and the drags were junk. About a yr later I heard of a recall so I contacted okuma. I gave him my serial numbers and he said they weren’t in the recall. So I said your telling me these horrific reels are working as you expected?..... basically yup. Ditched them all for Saltist.


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When pulling flashers on divers we use 25lb McCoy Mean Green. With a proper drag you should have no issues. I can't say we've ever been cracked off becasue of our leader. I will add one thing. Mono stretches. Fluorocarbon doesn't. 

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I noticed an Okuma Convector in the background. I found the drags on the convectors to be too sticky- not smooth enough for no-stretch wire rigs IMO. You may want to consider upgrading to Tekotas with Christmas approaching lol. 
I would have to disagree. I've been using thE cabelas depthmaster (Okuma convector knockoff I believe) for my wire dipseys for the last 5 years and have had zero issues. I 100% agree a higher quality reel would probably be better, but I haven't had a reason to swap it out yet. As with anything equipment related, YMMV.

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1 hour ago, Yankee Troller said:

When pulling flashers on divers we use 25lb McCoy Mean Green. With a proper drag you should have no issues. I can't say we've ever been cracked off becasue of our leader. I will add one thing. Mono stretches. Fluorocarbon doesn't. 

So i run wire combos with snubbers and use flouracarbon leader. I got a few spools of 50lb big game(all my rigger rods have 50lb to help with fleas). Am i better off using that for dipsey leader?

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