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Tying copper to a micro swivel


Chaff

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Probably a version of "wire knot" called a "haywire twist". Put the wire through the eye of the swivel and loop it once or twice through it then make it look like a 'hang mans noose" by winding the remaining end of the wire around the main part of the wire (cut off any remaining end as necessary).

Edited by Sk8man
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Does anyone use metal crimps and crimping pliers for this purpose, or are those mainly used on steel lines?  I got a bunch of bead chains and crimps at Sutton's years back, and I used them for this on a Victrola, but of course I didn't have to worry about guides on that.

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At least in my own experience over the years the crimps are not real great used on copper or monel wire (i.e. the softer wires) of any type and are reserved for stainless wire situations as the crimp material is harder than the soft wires yet softer than the stainless so breakage and damage to the wire itself is reduced. The particular method of crimping is also of concern as crimping too tight  or too loose even on stainless can create its own set of problems by either pinching the wire at the edge of the crimp weakening it and encouraging later failure or in the latter case allowing too much play letting the wire wiggle back in forth at the edge of the crimp leading to later failure.  I carefully crimp terminal connections making sure the crimp is evenly distributed and then use a glue gun to melt plastic over the crimp and terminus to keep everything intact to prevent wiggling or any movement at the edges of the crimp and have never had one fail that way at that point. I know that some salt water applications involve the use of crimps even with heavy mono but it is risky if you don't do it exactly right.

Edited by Sk8man
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Yeah I hear ya:lol: ....been there too. On the copper jerking rig i used the haywire twist but kept a loop before I did the wrap around of the end of the copper wire so the spoon (usually a Pfleuger or look alike) would have "play" in it for better action.

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I would suggest the standard #8 Spro swivels instead of the micros. They go through most standard rod eyes and tips and are rated for 50 lb. breaking strength. I  have used them for years with every type of set-up imaginable and never a failure of the swivel.The #10's will also do the job but you are much more limited to smaller line diameters for tying knots (e.g. using copper or leadcore)

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