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jth21usa

Rudder extensions

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Has anyone tried to make their own rubber extensions by simply bolting a bigger price of metal to their current rudders? 

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Not going to work , the water pressure will wreak havoc on the whole setup .Not going to be  "aerodynamic " no reason to cobble up your steering system and that's exactly what your talking about.. . Do it right and have it fabricated.... In the Introduce Yourself Forum with the heading of Welding and Fabrication is the name of a shop that has done this numerous times . have seen his work and been on a couple boats that have had it done and it is the shizzle compared to the stock rudder.

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Has anyone tried to make their own rubber extensions by simply bolting a bigger price of metal to their current rudders? 
Dont listen to other ppl
You can bolt on an extension without harm

I built these for my 11m

I also have friends who bolted on heavy aluminum flatbar to the rudder without any harm20180816_133109.jpg

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3 hours ago, stevietangles said:

Dont listen to other ppl
You can bolt on an extension without harm

I built these for my 11m

I also have friends who bolted on heavy aluminum flatbar to the rudder without any harm20180816_133109.jpg

Sent from my SM-G975W using Tapatalk
 

Can you be more specific on what the build looks like and material? These are fantastic!

 

justin

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How's the electrolysis with two dissimilar metals connected to each other under water ? I guess you can unhook your bonding  wires with this setup. Is there anymore drag created by overlapping the stock rudder with a wider piece of corrosion creating metal ?  How much time and money was needed vs having a professional upgrade done correctly ? With all the money you put into the sport , why cheap out on your steering setup ?  If I was looking at a boat to buy and it had the bolt on"s I would wonder what other short cuts were taken in the upkeep and then keep walking.  Do it once and do it right is how I like to roll.  But as stated above ,"don't listen to other ppl"  Although you did ask a question which might require listening to other people's advice.. So go ahead and do what you want it's your boat.

Edited by Bozeman Bob

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11 minutes ago, Bozeman Bob said:

How's the electrolysis with two dissimilar metals connected to each other under water ? I guess you can unhook your bonding  wires with this setup. Is there anymore drag created by overlapping the stock rudder with a wider piece of corrosion creating metal ?  How much time and money was needed vs having a professional upgrade done correctly ? With all the money you put into the sport , why cheap out on your steering setup ?  If I was looking at a boat to buy and it had the bolt on"s I would wonder what other short cuts were taken in the upkeep and then keep walking.  Do it once and do it right is how I like to roll.

Do it right is about $2000, 20 percent of the cost of my boat, for rudders, also it’s pretty fun building stuff.

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Do it right is about $2000, 20 percent of the cost of my boat, for rudders, also it’s pretty fun building stuff.
Material cost me 200
1/4" aluminum
5052
Build time was 4 hours
I pulled the rudders
Cut the sheet
Had to use a brake to bend the front of each plate
Clamp and weld
Drill and tap

I added a magnesium anode this season

No corrosion was noticed after 2 seasons

Steering torque increased a little.

I can troll in 3 to 4 footers and my AP barely has to make adjustments whereas before the boat was useless in 2 foot seas

And to bob

If you consider this cutting corners I bet there isnt a boat out there that you would consider buying

I've seen a lot worse than ppl using dissimilar metals for a rudder extension



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On ‎12‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 8:44 PM, jth21usa said:

Do it right is about $2000, 20 percent of the cost of my boat, for rudders, also it’s pretty fun building stuff.

  Ok , so if you paid 20,000 for your boat and had to outfit it from scratch lets do the math . 3 average riggers = 1800.00 FishHawk 800.00 12' MFD 2500.00 Radar dome 1500.00 Electric Planner reels and boards 1200.00 Rigger and Dipsy Rods 1200. Copper and lead core rods 1200.00  Auto Pilot ,3000.00 Tackle which would include rigger weights , house battery, extra wiring for gear ,tracks and holders along with misc  nets Bogo grips.lures ,pliars ect   at least 1,000 . That puts us at 14,200 and we have not paid for the summer slip [2,000] , winter storage [700 ] , upkeep on the engines [min. 150 a year per engine ] Insurance 750.00  and good old gas ,500 gallons min on twin inboards @ 3.50 per = 1750 and that = 4675 per year  [min in my book ]  So your first year you spent 18100.00 vs the 20000.00 for the boat. You must have heard people saying the actual cost of the boat is sometimes the cheapest part of fishing . Might want to check with both places mentioned here for pricing if you have not already ,anyway good luck with your bolt on's !! 

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19 minutes ago, Bozeman Bob said:

  Ok , so if you paid 20,000 for your boat and had to outfit it from scratch lets do the math . 3 average riggers = 1800.00 FishHawk 800.00 12' MFD 2500.00 Radar dome 1500.00 Electric Planner reels and boards 1200.00 Rigger and Dipsy Rods 1200. Copper and lead core rods 1200.00  Auto Pilot ,3000.00 Tackle which would include rigger weights , house battery, extra wiring for gear ,tracks and holders along with misc  nets Bogo grips.lures ,pliars ect   at least 1,000 . That puts us at 14,200 and we have not paid for the summer slip [2,000] , winter storage [700 ] , upkeep on the engines [min. 150 a year per engine ] Insurance 750.00  and good old gas ,500 gallons min on twin inboards @ 3.50 per = 1750 and that = 4675 per year  [min in my book ]  So your first year you spent 18100.00 vs the 20000.00 for the boat. You must have heard people saying the actual cost of the boat is sometimes the cheapest part of fishing . Might want to check with both places mentioned here for pricing if you have not already ,anyway good luck with your bolt on's

 

wow that’s a lot of math. I guess if you have extended rudders on a boat I would love to know your experience. If you don’t I’ll ask for advise on the costs of boat ownership on another thread. Also 20 percent of $20000 isn’t $2000.

 

 

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11 minutes ago, jth21usa said:

 

wow that’s a lot of math. I guess if you have extended rudders on a boat I would love to know your experience. If you don’t I’ll ask for advise on the costs of boat ownership on another thread. Also 20 percent of $20000 isn’t $2000.

 

 

  Correct on the math , just got up and brain wasn't fully engaged . So you paid around 10,000 which puts my financial numbers more in perspective. Sorry to bother you with these figures on ownership after you brought it up with your 20% of "cost" and not answer your question to your liking , I did mention I have been on boats before and after the work had been done. So go ahead and cobble it ,done with this thread .

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Guys

The best way to extend rudders would be to have them built out with bronze and brazed in with SiB

Or built entirely out of SS

I agree with that.

But generally time and money determine which avenue you take.

It's not cobbled to bolt on an extension

It's just not the best approach.



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I'm no steel worker... So I went to the guys at Chinook Divers and had them make me a set of Rudders. At least 10 other bigger boats out of Rochester had Rudders made by the folks at Chinook Divers.
Rudders are great quality and make a world of difference when trolling in bigger seas. 25471.jpeg

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