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Proper Size Kicker Motor


eljefe417

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9.9hp will be fine on that boat, but a 15hp won't hurt either. Your more important choice is shaft length, at minimum you want a long shaft (20") but depending on how/where you plan to mount it you may want the XL shaft (25"). I honestly can't believe anyone trolls without a kicker personally, the fuel savings combined with less hours on the main engine. It's a no brainer decision imo.

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11 minutes ago, FishingFool34 said:

 I honestly can't believe anyone trolls without a kicker personally, the fuel savings combined with less hours on the main engine. It's a no brainer decision imo.

 

Because a kicker isn't conducive to all applications.   But do agree in terms of shaft length and 15hp over a 9 if you have the ability to do so

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The Yamaha 20 hp is supposedly the same weight as their 9.9 hp. I ran a 9.9 for years on my 23’ boat and it pushed it at trolling speeds fine. The one time I needed my trolling motor to get back due to problems with the main motor, I wished I had more hp. Get a long shaft. 

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I think either the 15 or the 9.9 would work but if you go with the 9.9 I would do the bigfoot/prokicker.  Either one should be a long shaft. The additional length gets you down far enough to stop cavitation but also keep the motorhead high enough so that it doesnt swamp if it gets rough.  The bigfoot or the 15 will make it easier to turn the boat in rough conditions as well.

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Correct me if I’m wrong, but older evinrude and johnson 9.9 and 15hp motors were practically the same motor.  Only difference was a restrictor plate in the carb. Therfore bein same weight, so I know myself when I buy a kicker it will be a 15hp. I was also courious about shaft lenght but lookin 20”-25” is the way to go i guess

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Thank you all for your thoughts! 

 

I haven't had a chance to think about this recently, apparently, I'm "essential".

 

I have a local guy that has a Tohatsu 15hp long shaft with electric start, tilt and controls for $900. I just messaged him for the model year. He says that it's been properly serviced, etc, etc... 

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The long shaft is a good idea but just make sure that when you mount it that the motor shaft and prop will be fully out of the water when under advanced throttle (while running with the big motor) or you can damage the kicker.

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10 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

The long shaft is a good idea but just make sure that when you mount it that the motor shaft and prop will be fully out of the water when under advanced throttle (while running with the big motor) or you can damage the kicker.

X2.

Should have mentioned that.

Thanks

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Hey all, I am planning on adding a kicker motor and want to get your opinions...I run a 1988 Grady White 204c (225hp) and plan on either a 9.9hp or a 15hp. Any thoughts?
 
Thanks in advance...
 
Sent from my SM-G935P using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 
 

There is also the possibility of an auxiliary outboard bracket. There are 2 stroke and 4 stroke brackets. Then there are 10 inch and 16 inch vertical travel brackets. The 16 inch travel bracket is used for long shaft kickers. This enables you to raise the kicker all the way out of the water when traveling on the water.


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1 minute ago, rolmops said:


There is also the possibility of an auxiliary outboard bracket. There are 2 stroke and 4 stroke brackets. Then there are 10 inch and 16 inch vertical travel brackets. The 16 inch travel bracket is used for long shaft kickers. This enables you to raise the kicker all the way out of the water when traveling on the water.


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Exactly I used the panther four stroke mount on mine ( i forget if it was the 10 of the 16)  You will just need to be careful where you put it on the transom to ensure that with it up and the kicker tipped up you will get enough height.  With my transom I had just enough room so that when I get on plane the kickeker prop is out of the water.

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It is worth noting that weight supported by the kicker bracket may not be the only factor. The HP allowance for 2 stroke and four stroke motors can be substantially different e.g. 115 lb weight limit and will support a 20 HP two stroke while only support for a 5 HP 4 stroke etc. so care needs to be taken in the selection of a bracket.

Edited by Sk8man
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3 hours ago, wrinklestar said:

I bought a new adjustable panther mount that would support double the weight of the motor.  It was like $240.....much cheaper that buying a second kicker cuz your first one is on bottom next to my downrigger balls :rofl:

So now it is kicking it in the balls

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5 hours ago, eljefe417 said:

I'm seeing a lot of the aux motor brackets on Ebay that are much cheaper than online motor shops...

That may be true and probably made in China.

The Garelick type you would need is 71094. the Panther type would be 55-0416. Both are around 15 inch vertical lift and specially the Garelick is not exactly cheap. The Panther is a lot cheaper. Just remember that replacing the engine , because it took a dive or fell off while traveling, is not exactly cheap either.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks again, all...

 

I ended up buying a 2011 Mercury 15hp 4- stroke long shaft. The guy threw in a bunch of extra stuff (cables, controls, extra starter, electric start, extra pull start, etc...) all for $900. 

I'm definitely taking your advice and will be buying a solid aux motor bracket! 

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  • 1 month later...

I realize you already bought the 15 hp and you got hot great price. But for those who might use this thread as a reference in the future: there will be no difference in the speed generated from a 9.8 versus a 15 ho motor. There is s formula that is used to determine this. If you can't get on plane you will kit be able to achieve anymore speed with the bigger motor. I know this is hard to believe but I guess this is true. Based on drag. So for those who are making this decision in the future, do some research.

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Funny, I've been so busy at work lately that I haven't had any time for the boat. I just got on here now and you guys posted within the last 4 hours. Strange timing...

 

Anyway, instead of the Garelick 71094 I think that I'm going with the 71091. It has the same travel but can handle heavier motors, it seems.  Cheaper, too... The only difference that I noticed is that the 71094 is 11 1/2" wide and the 71091 is 8 1/8" wide. The clamps on my 15 hp are 5 1/4" wide. 

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