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tim

Dual battery system

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Just had the tangled mess of wiring in the stern of my Islander sorted out. Put in dual battery system selector switch and 4 power posts so I don’t have 15 wire on every terminal of the batteries. My question is how do you guys separate what goes on what battery you put your electronics on one and your starter on the other how about some ideas.Thanks

 

 

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The boat is the start battery. Electronic and hot items on the house. Easy pesy!]]

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The boat is the start battery. Electronic and hot items on the house. Easy pesy!]]

That was my thoughts my friend was arguing with me to put half and half.


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I have rewind many boats my personal preference wiring everything except the auto bilge pump AFTER the battery switch. That way when you leave the boat everything is off !! some electronic do draw power even when turned off. I also run the VHF to a battery to get rid of interference

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I have rewind many boats my personal preference wiring everything except the auto bilge pump AFTER the battery switch. That way when you leave the boat everything is off !! some electronic do draw power even when turned off. I also run the VHF to a battery to get rid of interference

New at dual battery what do you mean after the battery switch?I have standard switch with battery 1,battery 2, both and off


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Run a buss bar or a fuse box from your battery switch  and hook everything up to that. Then when you turn your battery switch off everything will be off. Run your bilge pump float switch directly to the battery so it is always hot

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I wired my last boat up like this schematic. Getting ready to wire up another boat the same way.
IMG_1368.JPG


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The diagram above how I've done mine as well. When starting your motor you should be on setting 1 to select your main cranking battery. When you are putting around with your kicker for trolling and using your other electronics you go to setting 2 - the deep cycle house battery which is not meant for cranking the motor but intended to be drawn down and recharged regularly. This way you do not wear down your cranking battery.

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The diagram above how I've done mine as well. When starting your motor you should be on setting 1 to select your main cranking battery. When you are putting around with your kicker for trolling and using your other electronics you go to setting 2 - the deep cycle house battery which is not meant for cranking the motor but intended to be drawn down and recharged regularly. This way you do not wear down your cranking battery.

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That’s what I thought thanks


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https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A

This makes it foolproof.....switch is OFF or ON most of the time....BOTH if you need both batteries to start in an emergency. ACR keeps both batteries isolated from each other, but charged if connected to a charging source.

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I’m a day late as usual. Had a normal 3 position switch installed yesterday


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the issue with the manual switch is human error. if you forget to switch to all the house battery wont be charged. if you  draw on both house and start batteries  and have the switch on one and draw both batteries down you may not have enough to start the motor. the bluesea switch and acr is the way to go. flip the switch on and the relay monitors the voltage the correct switch would give the option to join both batteries in an emergency. it is a nice system installed correctly. 

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