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Drag upgrade info for Daiwa Accudepth LC


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There was some interest in the procedure for upgrading the drag on the daiwa accudepth plus reels, so I thought I'd post it as a separate thread. Its fairly simple, I did it with no instructions and was able to figure it out with no major issues, but I will try to save you the hassle of figuring it out as you go. pretty simple- you only need to take one end off the reel; took me a 1/2 hour (including head-scratching time figuring it out ;) )

The various drag upgrades for this reel (and most others) can be purchased here (~$10): http://www.smoothdrag.com which also has some generic info on the various drags and installation. I was told both types offered will be smoother than the felt. carbontex drags will have a higher lb rating and smoother progression vs stock whereas the smoothies will have comparable lb to stock but the smoothest overall in usage and progression. The drag kits for sealines and accudepths are the same.

OK and now for the instructions... use the schematics that come with the reel if you have them as they are clearer than the image on the daiwa website and refer to this if you're not clear on the parts I reference: http://www.daiwa.com/PartsDiagram/Parts ... C-47LC.pdf

1) start by turning the reel on end with the handle facing up. take out the small screw in the handle and lift off the nut keeper. loosen and remove the nut and lift off the handle. the metal spacing sleeve will probably come out with it. thats fine. lift off the drag star

2) remove 7 the screws that hold the end plate onto the reel (4 large 3 small) including the small ones up by the counter. NOTE- do NOT remove the screw in the clutch lever as this will remain on the end plate

3) squeezing the two end plates, screw off the cast control cap and set aside it along with the spring underneath it. be sure not to let go of the two end plates

4) again standing it on end with the handle side up, slowly lift off the end plate.

5) one by one, begin removing the various washers and parts off the drive shaft; the small washers first and then the large gear along with all the pieces inside it (these can can come off as a unit). keep track of the order in which you take them off. once you remove the anti-reverse clutch wheel, everything should now be off the shaft. (the small spring attached to the anti-reverse pawl will at some point come loose from the pawl, this is fine)

6) clean the grease from on and around the shaft and clutch wheel and lightly grease (always just enough to leave a fingerprint) and reinstall the clutch wheel with the 'nub' side facing down.

7) take the next part in line (the red washer) and discard. this will be replaced by the small washer in the drag kit. NOTE- as you're replacing the drag washers, apply a light coat of reel-and-drag grease (again, just enough to leave a fingerprint)

8 ) take the washers out of the the drive gear and clean out the inside where the drag washers fit inside and reinstall with light grease on both sides

9) clean and reinstall the drag washers in order with light grease, swapping out the new ones in place of the crappy felt ones. :clap: Be careful with the carbontex ones when applying grease, so that the fibers around the edge remain flat- spread grease towards the edges, not along them.

10) reinstall the brass washers/bushings: brass washer 1st -> bushing and sleeve (wide brass side down) -> brass washer. save the 2 curved metal washers for later

11) holding pressure downward on the layers of components you just installed, take the small pawl spring off the post and reinstall it: on the pawl first, then post-side. NOTE- be sure the pawl rides against the edge of the clutch wheel, not under it.

12) slide the yoke plate so that its in the position furthest from the shaft.

13) reinstall the side plate (this is the only even slightly tricky part). it should sit flush, but if not move the clutch level back and forth while applying pressure to the end plate, so that it engages the yolk plate. you may have to jiggle the spool and press the lc reset button as well (It took me one or two tries to get everything to line up and have the plate flush against the reel body)

14) install the 7 end cap screws and then cast control cap.

15) install the drag and handle components- the two drag spring washers should be in a () configuration.

16) snug up the handle nut, slide the retaining ring over it, screw it in place and you're done! :clap:

Happy tinkering!

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my pleasure guys. great value reels, save for that one major inadequacy, IMHO.

cant wait to try them out pullin the 10" cranks and see how they work. gonna have to trek to the Allegheny Res soon- I just cant wait until june...

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  • 10 years later...

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