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Hi everyone, 


   I have a 19' Sea Nymph with two areas under the hull with leaky rivets.  The problem is on either side of the keel plate but only involves about 4 rivets

in each spot.  Last year I was able to drastically reduce the leaking by using large sheets of Flex Tape.  It was a quick fix that allowed me to continue

fishing but I am preparing to tackle the problem properly.  I am looking to drill out the rivets and replace them with closed end pop rivets as I do not have 

access to both sides.  My question is what length rivet should I use?  I was going with 3/16" diameter and can either go with 3/8" or 1/4" lengths.

Any suggestions?


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I'm in the middle of a repair like yours. ( See topic, "Closed Head rivet help Please" ) Mine is on the keel, just to the right of center, about 1 foot in front of the transom.

The thickness I'll be going through is approx. 5/32 or .3.968 mm so I ordered closed head rivets with a 0.126" - 0.250" grip range. The hole diameter is 11/64 so I'll be enlarging it a hair to 3/16.

I had trouble finding a source for small quantities of closed head pop rivets and 3M 5200 but 1844742231_M3.thumb.jpg.6e35dfe373c012a582e7e6d6f6f404a0.jpg297867922_M2.thumb.jpg.b5782d5dd6cc38b58ba8eb980da1da2e.jpg980044393_M1.thumb.jpg.5ae07e5fbc4f8cf81896b410ca7e89c0.jpgwas able to order a dozen from Fastenal.

It was recommended that I seal them with 3M 5200 as well. Source was Wally World 3 oz. for @ $10.

I'm fortunate in that both sides of where the missing rivets are is easily accessible. I hope yours are as well.


I'm waiting to hear from the LOU member who has the heavy duty tool that is needed for me to pop the pop rivets then I can get on the water.


Good luck, Bill

Edited by R1150R
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Bill, 


   How did your repair go?  I just finished mine yesterday and am excited to take my boat out today.

I will be running it without the bilge pump, first to see if water still collects and second, if it does,

I will get under the boat to identify any leaky rivets I might have missed. 

  It was ridiculously simple to put the rivets in, I thought.  What I did notice was, now that I know what I'm looking at,

that the previous owner had replaced a bunch of the rivets with massive screws.  I suppose it made sense at the time

but with the proper size rivet and the G-flex epoxy I used I am pretty confident in the repair.


Have fun out there and thanks for your input!



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hay guys i have a 19 gls also do u happen to no how big the gas tank is thts in the floor my gas gage seems to do what ever it wants its all over the place so i don't no how much gas i actually have except when i fill it after filling and takeing it out it goes to half a tank but only takes 9 gal to fill back up so im not sure if it's correct and its only a 20 gal tank i was thinking the tank was bigher then that
thanks in advance

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/23/2020 at 7:40 PM, outback kennels 2 said:

hi guys how ya doing i have a sea nymph 19 gls and has a leak as u did question is how u found ware it was leaking i can't seem to locate the leak i believe its in the front any help appreciated thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Easy way to find any leak in aluminum boat is 2 simple tests. 

1- fill the hull with water. and watch. 

2- if you find rivets with a black ring around them, thats a loose rivet. likely causing a leak. What happens is it moves around causing friction and oxidized aluminum ring around the rivet. 


hope that helps!

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To test for leaking or loose rivets, I used a 3in.suction body puller  .Place over rivets, close it, if it holds rivet is good ,it will not seal if the rivet is loose. A loose rivet can be reset with a few simple tools; a rivet with a broken shank needs to be drilled out and  sealer put on rivet and set. Keep a rag with solvent handy to wipe off smeared sealer.                                                                            if unable to access  and see the rivet from the inside use a file and flatten the rivet head  ,center punch it then drill use a smaller dia bit on first pass thru. Center punching the head helps prevent drill drift remove rivet remains .to find aprox lgh of rivet I inserted a dental pick thru hole marked it and ordered rivets .  when using a blind rivet use a decent pop riveter and sealer  retest after you set the rivet to make sure it set this is important some times the rivet will not set square.Mark bad rivets with a good felt tip marker. see Rivets ,Rivets at iboats .com      this gentleman put a good article together on them.

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When you replace rivets, use whats called "structural rivets" they are stronger than original. Put a bit of 5200 calk/glue on them and rivet them inplace. The best method for checking rivets is with a cold chisel and hammer, place chisel on head and Lightly tap and listen, bad rivets sound much different. But dont hit the head so hard your wrecking good rivets. Its very easy in practice. 

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