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Difference between fluorocarbon leader and 100% fluorocarbon fishing line???


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The main difference I have seen is that the fishing line is more supple or flexible while the leader material is a little stiffer and may be coated differently. The reasoning is that with more flexibility it should cast a little better. Some of the manufacturers make several different grades of flourocarbon each with supposedly different characteristics so it pays to try some out for your intended purpose before committing to a whole bunch of it

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Good question although it is like comparing apples to oranges in a way (eg. they are both fruit or line) but having different characteristics so the comparison depends largely on USE. Monofilament line has some stretch to it - some brands more than others (e.g. SeaFlee has a lot while Big Game has relatively low amount). Some brands or even lines within brands are more limp while others an outer coating making them harder, stiffer, and more resistant to abrasion while being less flexible. Fluorocarbon lines in general are stiffer than most mono lines and may impart a little different action to lures as a result. They tend to be more abrasion resistant than a lot of mono lines but the various brands and specific line versions of both differ in this regard (e.g. Seguar Blue label vs. Berkeley Vanish) as well as breaking strength. One of the most touted features of the fluorocarbon lines is that is is "virtually invisible to fish" underwater. I have always been suspicious of this claim and remain so because how was this determined? I suspect that there were not many fish respondents to the question and human eyesight is radically different than that of fish. I will say however after using both types of line I believe that the number of fish strikes is greater for fluorocarbon but the reason is unclear as they operate slightly differently in the water much as does copper and leadcore. If you do a lot of winter fishing mono may be the way to go as it doesn't stiffen as much as fluorocarbon line in the extreme cold and may be a little easier to tie knots  I use 50 lb Big Game mono for tying my trolling flies rather than fluorocarbon because it has more stretch which seems advantageous with wire dipsies as I have had commercial fluorocarbon flies break from the instant shock of kings hitting, but never the 50 l b mono....mainly a personal preference like most of the other issues encountered. Like a lot of fishing stuff there is a lot of marketing hype surrounding the claims rather than hard fast valid research evidence for the claims

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Thanks sk8man! it seams your saying you get more strikes with fluoro but fluorocarbon and fluorocarbon line very quite a bit between all the different manufacturers out there. Which fluorocarbon do you like and can it be had in bulk? If you buy 25 yards thats only 75 ft with long leaders you could use that up pronto....[emoji846]

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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I imagine others will chime in here but I use Seaguar and have had great luck with it. You can buy most of it in 200 yd spools (e.g. Red Label etc.) There are various versions of it that may suit other types of fishing too. I have had good luck with both Red and blue label types (the red is usually less expensive). I use 10 012 lb for the Finger Lakes and 20 lb for Lake O. Whatever you do stay away from the Berkeley Vanish it is total crap and breaks very easily. There are other good brands out there as well as the Seaguar too.

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I imagine others will chime in here but I use Seaguar and have had great luck with it. You can buy most of it in 200 yd spools (e.g. Red Label etc.) There are various versions of it that may suit other types of fishing too. I have had good luck with both Red and blue label types (the red is usually less expensive). I use 10 012 lb for the Finger Lakes and 20 lb for Lake O. Whatever you do stay away from the Berkeley Vanish it is total crap and breaks very easily. There are other good brands out there as well as the Seaguar too.

X2


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That is the stuff. Their Blue Label may be a little harder coated but I use the red label all the time with good results so either one is suitable for most of the fishing that we do.  If you do a lot of fishing around brush piles or sunken trees they make some types that seem to hold up well in that environment or for salt water use.

Edited by Sk8man
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Not to booger up the topic but just want to throw this at ya. The best line to use is the one that you have confidence in. How shy do the think a fish is when it’s hitting a fly 20" +/- behind a 8" dodger or flasher. If the fish doesn’t hit it’s probably has more to do with the action, speed, color than the line between the dodger/flasher and fly. I’ve been making my own flies for more than twenty years and to be honest catch enough fish with my home-mades to satisfy most fishermen. So what line do I use? Ande 50# clear exclusively since the mid 90's. I buy it in 250 yd (1/4 lb) spools and never had a break-off.  I have complete confidence in it.


Disclaimer: I only fish the fingers so this may not apply to big waters. Also I’m bored and killing time till the end of March. :hi: Tight lines

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