Jump to content

Depth raider help


Recommended Posts

Recently purchased a new to me DR1000 depth raider. Guy said everything work but just needed the coated cable. Fast forward to cable installation and new klincher termination I'm still am not able to get any reading on my display. It is only showing dashes after I hook everything up and drop the probe in a bucket of water (not touch the bottom or side). Tried new 9v batteries but still no luck. Afraid it might be a bad probe but not sure how to test it. Anyone have any thoughts as to what might be going on or what I might need to check next? TIA20220613_230649.jpg20220613_230523.jpg20220613_230559.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-A515U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well triple checked the battery and slapped a grounding wire into the bucket and still nothing.

Ended up running a separate wire right from the probe to the antenna along with the grounded wire in the bucket and got a temperature to show up! Was pretty pumped so thanks for the suggestion above about the ground! Was happy to know the probe and antenna are OK.

Here's a weird kicker though (weird to me cause I'm not an electrical guy) but when I submerged the whole probe with the separate wire, it wouldn't work. If I just dipped to get the probe wet and kept the wire out of the water, it works. In the pics I'm trying to use my finger as a reference for the water line to try and explain what I mean. Be a bare wire issue or something? Also, anyone got install instructions for these things? Suppose that might be helpful [emoji1787]

Sorry if these are dumb questions but I'm just winging it over here [emoji28]20220614_210907.jpg20220614_210918.jpg

Sent from my SM-A515U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure but I believe the water is causing a connection issue with the separate wire. Based on your pics, you should be fine. I can tell you that the antenna spring likes to chew up coated cable. Especially if you are using auto stop beads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when you installed the coated cable are you sure you have enough bare wire to ground it to rigger ?
if so redo clincher end
sounds like grounding issue
Didn't even know that was a thing so greatly appreciate the response. I just unpacked the new cable and strung it on.

So basically have to strip some of the coating off the cable and then attach it to the rigger spool? Even if the spool is plastic? Also, how much of the coating needs to be taken off?

Sent from my SM-A515U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The coiled wire antennas that encapsulate the coated cable suck as well - I have to hang a rag over my antenna and spray it down with water to keep the antenna in contact with coated wire to get reliable readings….you can see the rag placement in the pic….

972FDD0F-AEA4-410A-A1D3-11DD7945DA8C.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You do not need to electrically connect the coated cable to the rigger spool unless the rigger uses that for autostop, or positive ion control like some Cannons.  It is not needed for the Depth Raider.  

 

I should have thought of this on my original response, but you can connect the ground wire directly to the lower lug on the probe to increase the signal strength for testing vs dropping in bucket.  Your antenna should work then.

 

You can also theoretically increase the signal strength in actual use by taping or otherwise insulating exposed metal that contacts the top lug of the probe, just make sure your swivel still works!.

 

I tape up the clincher release with the stretchy, self-adhering tape down to the top of the swivel. Nothing on rest of swivel. I did coat the probe tab with "liquid tape" where the swivel does not contact, but don't know if it made any difference. I get 150ft with x-version Depth Raider.....175+ft with wet towel....YMMV
Edited by kayaker919
Update
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure when you strip black coating off rigger cable that you take a razor blade and scrape off clear coating that is on copper wire then solder electrical connector to end then attach the bolt the bolt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Shakemsam said:

You can find the directions on the Depthraider web site. Basically what you show in the pic with the clincher  but the last 2 inches is stripped to the wire connector that attaches to the bolt. Then wrapped in rubber tape.

 

anyone happen to have a link for the install? I can't seem to find it anywhere on their website or the interweb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been having trouble with my Depth Raider too and been trying everyone's suggestions here.  I loose signal one I start to drop my ball.  I bought mine off LOU and am missing the set up directions so if someone could find them that would be awesome.

 

Mikeyman I am in the same situation as you.   

 

Thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I also have a phone# for Kurt at Kell Labratories.  Hopeflly it still works. He was really good to work with for help.

 262-492-7705

 

If anyone is in the Rochester area and would like to borrow a probe or head unit to try and see if that is the problem, I have a complete unit I'm not using and would lend out.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mikeyman,  I was one of the first Depth Raider users on lake Ontario many year back, so I might be able to clarify a few issues.  You don't need to strip wire and ground it to the downrigger, just spool it on.

 

Connect the power wires to the starting battery, not an isolated second battery. The starting battery somehow uses the motor to ground the system properly.  Getting a reading in a bucket in almost impossible, per Kell labs. The system grounds itself once you're in the water.  ( I tried the same thing when I first got mine, had the same result. )

 

The coated cable must be stripped back to make an electrical connection with the probe. I use a Walker Clincher with a solid marine connector and stainless steel #10 screw and lock nut. The connection you show in your picture looks good as long as the coating has been stripped off the end of the cable. Make sure the swivel and ball clip are not coated. A quick scrub with a piece of sand paper assures a good connection.

Here's a pic of mine:

IMG_1234.thumb.JPG.30e11ab43961c1c8bb2dd838b0e4e875.JPG

 

I use Scotty downriggers, never liked the antenna springs, as the Scotty stop beads always got hung up in the spring.  I took a 4 inch piece of 1/2" copper water pipe and flared out the ends, wrapped the spring around the pipe and coated it with electrical tape.  The solid tube picks up the signal from the probe much better, and the auto stop beads slide right through.  I have never fished "too deep" to not get a reading from the probe.

Here's 2 pics of my mod.

IMG_1233.thumb.JPG.590771a9c3a750a7d42d3e0cca2d1682.JPG

 

IMG_1232.thumb.JPG.261ce241c0372ed94879122593a56dc1.JPG

 

I usually run around 2.2 - 2.6 for speed and hover around that 50 degree mark to start out. 

 

 

 

Edited by J.D.
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you again for all the incredibly helpful responses here. Reached out to Kell/Depth raider and never heard anything back so the responses here are greatly appreciated. 

 

Played around with a bit last night to double check my connections and limit my exposed wire. I had planned on hooking it up to my trolling motor battery but now I'll be sure to run it to my starter. I'll keep you posted on how the first outing goes and thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve found that when testing Depth Raider in a bucket or on the water that to get a good connection to probe from swivel that a DR weight needs to be attached.  I never had good luck just putting Probe in the water w/o a suspended weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cable is insulated to prevent signal loss, any exposed metal from the terminal on top of the probe to the insulated rigger cable causes signal loss. The probe can’t spin when moving thru the water so you don’t need a terminator swivel.  Use liquid tape to coat the terminal and all exposed metal. When your cable insulation gets damaged exposing bare wire redo the setup. With a perfectly insulated setup you can get signal over 120 feet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again all for the feedback.

Today was the first day I've been able to try it and still no luck. Got it wired right to the starter battery but still just dashes.

Have narrowed it down to being a ground issue though. Whwn I put my hand on top of the probe when in the water it works so think I'm just gonna coat all my connection points in liquid tape and see what happens

Sent from my SM-A515U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again all for the help on this

Ended up getting in touch with Kurt at Kell and explained to him what was going on. He was baffled by me noting I could get it to work in a bucket with my hand in it. Kind of proud and sad when he told Mr he'd never heard of that [emoji1787]

He was thinking it was more of a connection issue instead of my klincher terminal, so I ended up buying an adaptor to just plug the antenna into the back of the display. Put di-electric grease on all my connection coax connection points and it worked!

Almost lost the probe 20 mins later when I got hung up on bottom but was able to scramble backwards for it to come loose [emoji38] thanks again everyone for the help!20220701_122430.jpg

Sent from my SM-A515U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/25/2022 at 10:17 AM, Mikeyman104 said:

Thanks again all for the feedback.

Today was the first day I've been able to try it and still no luck. Got it wired right to the starter battery but still just dashes.

Have narrowed it down to being a ground issue though. Whwn I put my hand on top of the probe when in the water it works so think I'm just gonna coat all my connection points in liquid tape and see what happens

Sent from my SM-A515U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

What happened, did coating the exposed metal fix it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What happened, did coating the exposed metal fix it?
Talked to Kurt at Kell and he mentioned that it should work 30-40' down even without coated cable so he didn't think it had anything to do with exposed metal/cable. He figured it was a connection issue somehow.

Ended up getting a coax adaptor to connect the antenna to the display instead of using the 20' of coax cable that came it. Touched on some dielectric grease to the coax connections and works good now.

Sent from my SM-A515U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...