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have you tried heavy arrows with High Front of Center % weight (Ranch Fairy)?


dremarquis

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I don't want to re-open the fixed blade vs. mechanical broadhead issue.

All i can say is that i have had pass throughs and excellent blood trails with mechanicals AND i have had shots at 15 yds that hit the shoulder blade and i watched the arrow fall out after the deer ran 10 yards.

I plan to switch to heavy arrows, fixed blades with High FOC.

Have any of you ordered the Ranch Fairy's Arrow/Field Point Test Kit?

thank you,

andre

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I don't want to re-open the fixed blade vs. mechanical broadhead issue.
All i can say is that i have had pass throughs and excellent blood trails with mechanicals AND i have had shots at 15 yds that hit the shoulder blade and i watched the arrow fall out after the deer ran 10 yards.
I plan to switch to heavy arrows, fixed blades with High FOC.
Have any of you ordered the Ranch Fairy's Arrow/Field Point Test Kit?
thank you,
andre
Over many years, I have had mixed results with mechanicals. Have had the best results with Magnus Stinger fixed blade. Unbeatable warranty. I am sure others are good, just my personal preference. Best of luck this year

Sent from my SM-G998U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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I'm staring down that rabbit hole this year. Built my own arrows, tipped with 150gr Magnus Stinger Buzzcut. Total arrow weight is around 450gr. I haven't had a chance to shoot a deer with the setup yet but will update if I get that chance! I will say it definitely shoots much slower. My bow (Mathew's Drenalin ~60lb) was never fast to begin with but there is significant arrow drop past 25-30yds.

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I fell down the rabbit hole along time ago. I never really got in to the speed arrow set up and never truly understood it. I currently am shooting a 400 spine with a total arrow wight just south of 800 grains. I machine my own incerts and hunt with and shoot a single bevel broad heads that are 200 grain. Once you shoot and tune a heavy foc stiff arrow you won't turn back. My bow is virtually silent and the kinetic energy at the point of impact is stunning. I shoot broadheads all the time and just sharpen them. In practice you will see that you will start blowing threw "broadhead" targets. Down side of the heavy arrow set up is the reduction in range. But I think the limitation I. Range is worth the confidence in knowing that you have a arrow that can do the work you need it to do regardless of what bone it hits. My honest opinion is the ranch fairy and the hunting public guys are spot on with their set ups. And once you get over a reduction in speed you will never look back. A Honda fit going 60 mph does alot less damage to a house if it drives In to it than a milk tanker going 40 mph. Kind of the analogy I use when explaining my set up. Also many times when hitting a deer the animals reaction is completely different. You will get a complete pass threw the deer will know something happened run a few steps and then just walk away and die. I also have noticed that their is alot less deflection when shooting threw light grass or small brush when practicing. Not that I condone taking poor shots threw brush but things happen in the real world and I do practice shooting in real world conditions.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Lily 2 - everything you wrote is completely consistent with what I'm learning. I have an arm injury that is preventing me from bowhunting this year, but i will definitely make the switch for next year!!!
dre
Like I said you have to have confidence in what your set up is. My suggestion is to start with something that is in the 500+ range what I shoot is over kill for deer but it got to a point where I was building heavier and heavier and I just liked how it shot and stayed where I am. There is no perfect set up but having a arrow that can do the dirty work when things go wrong is worth all of the confidence in the world. I have tested lots of different set ups and what I shoot is what works for me. I know I'm not a perfect shot 100% of the time no one is so I chose to shoot a arrow that can't increase my odds when the odds ball thing happens. If shooting as the ranch fairy puts it "kid arrows " is what works for you do so. If shooting "adult arrows" is what you want to do do that. You have to do what works for you and what you have confidence in. The hunting public and the ranch fairy are great things to watch its real world and both crews explain why they are doing what they do. I was doing this before I knew about the ranch fairy and someone told me about it and he just confirmed what I had already found found out my self.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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I'm running a 498gr Pile Driver arrow with both Rage Extreme 2 blade or the Tru Glo Titanium 4 blade out of a 60lb Hoyt Nitrum. Not the fastest bow but the arrows drive thru most anything. No issues! I'll take slow and heavy over fast and light. 

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There’s give and take with all of the different setups giving you speed over energy etc. as someone mentioned you need to have the confidence more than anything. It’s been a few years but setting up bows for individuals was more of a “market advertisement” as they wanted that bow no matter what, didnt truly understanding what there getting for the money. Smoothness, speed, accuracy, deadliness and quietness all have to be balanced for the avg yardage you intend to shoot. Amazing seeing guys out on a 3D course with bows at 75+lbs that have a 6 inch brace height or shorter with the lightest arrows they can get away with and can’t be consistent past 30 yds. Some can muster it. Most can’t. 

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