Coated Cable Shreading

[Cha-Sea]

Hey All.

I know I read a thread about coated downrigger cable getting shreaded and can't find it to see what the solution was. I put a new Depth Raider on at the end of last year, meticulously, and the cable was

shot after 5 times out! Put it on a Cannon Mag 10 HS. I think someone put a pulley inline to center the cable, different brand, etc. ? Any suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.

Best,

Dave

[emtystringer]

You may want to check and see if your ball hook may have rubed the coating and may be purchase the new version swivel head for your downrigger

[J.D.]

It has to be a downrigger problem. I installed D/R and coated cable when they first came out at least a decade ago. Still using the original cable on a Scotty Downrigger. Perhaps you have a pulley that is not free spinning and it's rubbing the coating off.

[MCF]

You have something which is tearing at the coating, the pulley at the end of the rigger, something in the reel on the downrigger.  Cable on coating is usually a long life item.

[LongLine]

I'd replace the end pulley and it;s axle.  It may not be free spinning or have a groove in it.  (Pulley may be hanging up at some part of rotation when under load.)

[spoonfed-1]

On 3/11/2023 at 12:02 AM, Cha-Sea said:

Hey All.

I know I read a thread about coated downrigger cable getting shreaded and can't find it to see what the solution was. I put a new Depth Raider on at the end of last year, meticulously, and the cable was

shot after 5 times out! Put it on a Cannon Mag 10 HS. I think someone put a pulley inline to center the cable, different brand, etc. ? Any suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.

Best,

Dave

You turning too sharp and hitting the cable with another cable while you fishing? Running pancake weights? If not it has to be related to your rigger.

Edited March 13, 2023 by spoonfed-1

[Cha-Sea]

Thanks for the replies. Generally don't turn too sharp but I am using pancake weights. Curious how that might be causing it. They seem to track great.

[mr 580]

Currents do funny things with pancake weights.  Sounds like you are getting contact with another cable- downrigger or wire dipsey.  Going to a torpedo shaped weight could help.  You have something going on as normally coated cable lasts several years.  If it isn’t your spread then it’s something on your rigger.

[Cha-Sea]

Roger that, thanks. Very possible it ran into the dipsy wire. 

 

[spoonfed-1]

7 hours ago, Cha-Sea said:

Thanks for the replies. Generally don't turn too sharp but I am using pancake weights. Curious how that might be causing it. They seem to track great.

If it's not related to a rigger problem it has to be cables crossing while fishing. The above post explains it pretty well except for the dipsy thing. Never seen a dipsy wire tear up coated cable but I guess it could happen. I run torpedo shaped weights and dislike pancake weights. Slow turns and watch whats going on during your turn.

Edited March 14, 2023 by spoonfed-1

[spoonfed-1]

4 minutes ago, spoonfed-1 said:

Duplicate post

 

Edited March 14, 2023 by spoonfed-1

[Shakemsam]

Different types of retrievers on your cable can cause it as well.

[Tall Tails]

Definitely check your pulley on the rigger.  Run a cotton swab on it and see if there is any burrs.  

[LongLine]

 Make sure the wire is not traveling up to the edge of the pulley and riding between the edge of the pulley and its housing.  When you let wire out on a rigger with coated cable,  the rigger should be pointed towards the rear of the boat....NOT at an angle to the boat.  This will keep the wire centered in the bottom of the pulley.  Invest in a good swivel base if you want to run probe rigger at an angle to the boat.

[pukingdog]

I had cables crossing when I first started using pancake weights. The trick is to bend the tail of the pancake weights in a vice to get the weight to travel away from the boat like a dipsey does. Bend one right and bend the other left. Then you have to color code the weight to match the correct side of the boat. I do that with red and green refractive colored lure tape. I put a piece on the ball and the same color on my down rigger. Then just match pancake to rigger. Haven't had a crossed cable since. I do always keep my riggers on the correct side of the boat because I have one side of the boat wired for my sub-troll temp and speed sensor. If you don't have a need to do that, put the tape on the gunnel instead of the rigger. I like having a little additional spread to my down cables, especially when running paddles and spin doctors. Gives you a little more separation. I like pancake weights and torpedo weights. Round Balls are my least favorites, but I have all 3 styles on board. I've also seen a cable jump the roller on cannon Mag 10 end pulley on a buddies boat. That will really screw up a cable and can cost you a hundred or more when the cable eventually breaks. If you have a down speed/temp sensor on that cable,

a hunred dollar bill turns into $300 or more.