Organized Slime

Bingo! Older circa 2006/2007 Fish Hawk transducer. So, I said two lowrance units not totally true. One Lowrance 480DF & an Eagle Fish Elite 480. The only difference I know in the units is 4 more watts on the GPS receiver for the Lowrance, dual frequency transducer, and it will transmit & receive NMEA 0183. I plan on using it for GPS because it will talk to the autopilot. The Eagle 480 will be sonar. If I turn the Fish Hawk off the Lowrance works fine but it completely rendures the Lowrance sonar useless if it is on. This place is a great resource I knew I would get some help out here as always. Thanks!

I guess I'm a bit stumped then. My old boat had the Lowrance DF, Fish Hawk & Hummingbird transducers all mounted together on the Starboard side opposite the kicker. If I ran the Fish Hawk, it hosed the Lowrance sonar at 50 or 200 kHz. I had to run the hummingbird for sonar & the the Lowrance for GPS only. The cables were also completely isolated. Sounds like there will be some trial & error?

Rigging an Islander I/O & have Bert's transducer mounting boards on starboard & port sides. I want to mount two Lowrance transducers and a Fish Hawk transducer. I have a kicker on the port side and one Lowrance transducer is a dual frequency, the other is not. I am concerned with interference from the sonar transducers & Fishhawk. Both Lowrance units are sonar/GPS combo units so the plan is to run one in full screen GPS & the other in full screen sonar giving me a backup sonar & GPS for that rainy day. As of now, I plan to mount both Sonar transducers on the port side where the kicker is and the Fish Hawk transducer on the starboard side. The kicker will be on a Garelick lifting braket. Thanks

Will the TR1 Gold work without the throttle actuator hooked up? I already have a Troll Master installed that works fine.

I run the older display unit with the newer, smaller clear probe. A couple of years back I was getting readings all over the place. It was so bad it made my unit useless. With the help of my manual, I did a "factory reset" which fixed everything. I wondered how many other fellow fishermen trying to nurse an old unit along in this great economy of ours were in the same boat? I came on here and offered a scaned copy of the complete manual and was surprised at how many people messaged me. Just thought It wouldn't hurt do it again. I see the older units going for next to nothing so for someone on a budget it might be the route to go. I am a firm believer having run both that the newer probe will make the biggest improvement. FishHawk Thermo Troll 840 Manual.pdf

I'm curious why you don't like buddies? I make 8-10 trips a season and my shortest drive is 4 hours, usually more like 6.5-7 from Columbus Ohio to Oak Orchard. I figured the buddies were good because I believe they give me a much larger grease capaicity? I haven't touched them since 2005 when I did all new everything. Sounds like I've been lucky? Tim

Time to do the ole trailer bearings & seals. I run bearing buddies, and have always used standard wheel bearing grease, should I be using the white litium stuff? Thanks Tim

Thanks Paul! I actually talked with you last August at the Black North. Yes, fear the Glutton pizza! I just can't make it next week like I had planned and am hoping it will be nice and quiet after Labor Day weekend.

Is there decent fishing in mid Spetember? I understand the mature fish do their thing usually around labor day. Mostly fishing out of Oak Orchard. Thanks

I have a Starcraft 21' center console with a 90HP & 9.9 kicker tied to the main engine, Raymarine Sport Pilot X5 and Teleflex NFB Rack steering. I think my steering is too tight, and don't use my auto pilot as much as I would like because I'm in fear of damaging the auto pilot, which defeats the purpose of having it. I also have a lot of "stuff" running in the channel under the floor where you route control, transducer, shift, etc. cables. I'm not sure I want to attempt to pull a new "rack" steering cable and am thinking of switching to an entire new rotary steering set up? The reason being I believe the new quick connect cable will be much easier to pull. I plan to unbolt the rack cable at the helm cut the old cable at the nut that screws to the tilt tube and tape the new caple to the old there. Then pull the new cable as I remove the old, pulling from the center console helm to bring the new cable forward? I am looking at the Teleflex NFB 4.2 & the Uflex Accura. Between the two I prefer the Uflex Acurra. Will I lose anthing going from rack to rotary and does anyone have an opinion on the Teleflex vs. the Uflex? Thanks

Almost everyone I talk to runs the flasher/fly behind their divers & spoons on their riggers. I do the exact opposite for the following reasons. I just think divers pull better with the less resistance of a spoon. I hear the flasher/fly pull fish into the spread but doeasn't the same apply when they are on the riggers? I know most run their divers on setting 2 but cutting my teeth on lake Michigan which has much more pressure setting 1 gives me a more compact spread so I can turn quickly when I get cut off. Also I feel setting 1 stays at the target depth better because it does not swing out as far from the boat so on turns the inside rod wont drop as much. Just interested in what others do & think.

Looking for any opinions of Angler Boats? They look nice on the computer just wanted to hear from someone that has 1st hand knowledge. Looking at a 204 WA LE. Thanks

I just re-spooled all my downrigers and was wondering what the terminator of choice is? I run a probe and just purchased #12 sharks that I don't want to loose. I have Cannon terminators, Tru Trac Klinchers, & Scotty thimbles & crimps. I personally like the Cannons because I have used them in the past & they are very user friendly but now, I will sacrifice that for the strongest connection. Thanks