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GBalls's Achievements



  1. Appreciate the response. Thank you! Glenn
  2. Thank you Billy. Good to hear that it worked out well. Glenn
  3. Hey Guys, Hope all is well. I have been thinking about adding a small switched fuse panel to my boat so that I have easy access if I want to add accessories that require power. Keep things neat too. I figured this would be a way to simplify things and make it safer. I have added a stereo, fish finder and a couple other things, but I had to fish around under the console to find an area to get power and ground. Not convinced this is the best way to go. Everything is working, but always wonder if it's the best hook up! The stock dash has a breaker panel for everything so I know where the breakers are. Adding accessories puts fuses all over the place! Thinking it would be nice to have anything I add all in one place. What do you guys think? Anyone else done this? Adding accessories to existing wiring or add a fresh fuse block and make it easy and maybe safer on myself? Look forward to your opinions. Thank you, Glenn
  4. Thanks Nautitroller, I will check out the link! My batteries and gas tank (internal) are mounted through the center of the boat. If I fish by myself the boat would probably be pretty level with a kicker on it. Glenn
  5. Thank you Les, I do appreciate your insight and experience. I'll probably do something in the spring so I am considering all options. Just a little concerned about the weight. Of course being indecisive isn't helping either! Glenn
  6. Hey Gregger300, I did look at a 9.9 with full control (agreed it would be a pain to adjust a tiller all the time for me anyway.) However it does add about 100 - 125+ pounds to the port side of the boat. I put 125 pounds on my boat to see how it would sit in the water with this weight on it. It does list about 1-1 1/2" I am told this will cause to the boat to feel as though the 'alignment' is a little 'off' all the time. Not sure if I would like that. A 9.9 isn't really all that small either. It has been suggested that a 5-6 HP would be enough not only for trolling if I want, but also enough to get me back if the main motor fails. Won't break any speed records mind you and I don't like to go out when it is rough anyway! So, I may just go with a long shaft tiller 5-6 hp at 60lbs, steering rod to the main engine and a throttle control of some sort. My 115 Yamaha does troll well and I am not too concerned about putting hours on it so may just keep the little motor as a backup. May be a pain to use the tiller, but really just use it rarely anyway. I do have an electric motor up front to so I have heard that some guys set the 'kicker' straight ahead and steer with the electric. That could be an option to. I wondered why some guys had their electric motor out trolling for salmon... then I found out why! Having said all of that, I wish they would come out with a small 5-6 hp 60lb motor with full remote controls. The controls can just be small as to not take up too much helm space. That would be ideal! Any manufacturers listening!? Thank you for you input! Glenn
  7. Good point. How is the engine size best determined for the boat size to reach hull speed? Boat is around 2000 pounds give or take. Glenn
  8. Thank you AnglingAddict. Appreciate the response. Glenn
  9. I have attached photos of the boat.
  10. Thanks guys, so many good suggestions here. Isn't that incredible! So simple and never thought of it... I'll give that a go. I'll start weighing people at the marina to see who is the right weight! >>you could test it out by having someone sit on the port transom and see how the boat reacts to the extra weight. << Glenn
  11. Thank you guys. You have been very helpful and I appreciate it! Glenn
  12. Do you use that 4 hp Honda for trolling as well or just as an emergency backup?
  13. Thanks guys, appreciate the responses. You don't find that the kicker changes the stance of the boat much? Guess it depends on the size of the boat.
  14. Good friend to have! Glenn
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