Broadhorizons

They do the discount on anything except electronics and guns/ammo I believe. I've gotten it on rods/reels, lures, lifevests and boat accessories several times.

To operate a charter you are required by USCG to have the personal location lights on the vests with dated batteries. Glow sticks are also acceptable. I'll try to pm you a booklet for what's required for charter operation.

Guys, I got mine from the Bass Pro store. Ask about the "special vendor" discount for charter and guide services at the customer service desk. They'll want to see your NYS Guides license or Captains license and possibly a business card or brochure. I think it was a 15% discount. This is a store policy, not a corporate policy, hopefully it hasn't changed. I think they had the lights for about $15 each. I found some from Seattle Marine online for $8 to $9 each.

http://www.seattlemarine.net/productcart/pc/showsearchresults.asp?idcategory=0&idSupplier=10&priceFrom=0&priceUntil=999999999&sku=acr3&IDBrand=0&keyWord=&customfield=0&SearchValues=&resultCnt=20&order=2&Submit.x=40&Submit.y=8

I have a Penn Yan soft top without a rocket launcher and I mounted my reels to a Traxstech net holder placed in the most forward position in my tracks. The planer line then runs to a mast in the bow.

You can see one of the reels in this pic above the middle guy.

Here's a pic of the mast in the bow (the boat close behind us). It's chain link fence pipe with 2 solid ring eyebolts, quicklinks and swiveled pulleys.

I'm probably going to make a shorter mast for running boards in the spring when I have multiple lines off the boards and then go back to the tall mast for running single core or copper off each side through the summer.

I tried taking pics of mine but couldn't get the pics to come out good with the reflection of the flash of the camera. Here's a few commercial pics though.

Golden Retriever This is an Oki Kingfisher II (salmon slasher)

Blue Angel This is a Hot Spot

Mine are both salmon slashers

Here's the Hot Spot Bullfrog that Blue Knight mentioned.

I think Cannonball Runner had some of these for sale "Big Flashers"

I've got 2 ADP47lc's for short cores. They'll hold up to 5 colors and 300 yd of 30# Power Pro. I set them up as a 4 and a 6 but cut the 6 back to 5 colors because it rubbed the levelwind. If you want more lead on a reel than that, you'll have to go up to the ADP57lc. I've got 2 of them set up with a full core, 100ft of 30# Big Game and 300 yd of 30# Power Pro.

I have all ADP reels. 10 47lc's for riggers, wire dipsies and short cores, 2 for full cores and 3 27lc's for the wire thumper and braid slide divers. I haven't had a problem with any of them yet for one good season. Stay away from the old black Accudepth reel. They are junk.

Lastminute, reading the last line of your post I think you may have drift bags and trolling bags mixed up. Drift bags are not for trolling with the pressure of the motor. Trolling bags are heavier built and intended for use to slow the boat down while trolling with the motor. If you look at the Amish Outfitter website, the beefy bags and the buggy bags are for trolling. They do make drift bags which are not for trolling like you said.

I have a trolling bag that came with the boat so I do not know what brand it is. I'm looking to get a second one and will probably get an AO beefy bag.

Also, if you do break down in bumpy seas, you can let the bag out from your bow with the anchor line to keep you pointed into the waves otherwise your boat will turn sideways to the waves and really rock you.

Yes, I did it this summer. As long as you have the strap or the holder in the back, the pin will work. I got mine from Fish307 for about $10 a piece. I think I also took each holder tube out of the dual front and flipped them 180 degrees to get the angle right in the back position. I had to take the boom off the housing to get the front mount off, one screw easy. Took about 5 minutes per rigger. I'm not too tall so I like the rear mount much better than reaching to get rods out of the front mount.

Good luck,

And grease trap blades?

How many of the Kingfisher/salmon slashers are there? How many of the Protrolls and Spindoctors are there? Any thoughts on a price for these?

Thanks,

I'll have to contact Northeast they're only 5 minutes down the road. I've probably pulled the boat right past their shop over a dozen times (I kept it in Clockville over the summer). Never noticed they were there but then again I wasn't looking for any canvas work then either. I want a travel cover made this year.

Musky and Landshark, what work did they do for you guys.

I prefer crushed corn flakes for breading my fish. Italian bread crumbs is a close second.

WD40 is an icefishing trick too, never used it in open water though. It's almost common place up North.

It seems to be about 1.5 times depth for 30# PP braid. 50 down=75 out, 100 down =150 out. Wire will be pretty close to that also. I strongly suggest buying the Precision trolling Big Water Edition. It's got tables for dipsy's, slide divers, snap weights, leadcore and copper using different lines, mono, wire, braid.

Ray, you kill me. One of the guys at work put that lyric as a ring tone on his phone and they (nearly everyone) has been chanting it at the office for a few days. Glad to hear Hank got your motor running. I await the crazy antics...I mean fishing reports.

I had it 2 weeks ago also. Had to wipe the computer out and start over, what a pain. Some people need to get a life other than making computer viruses. I am now a former user of AVG and Microsoft Internet Explorer, people make too many viruses set up for IE.

Found it on GLA:

A friend and I did a test last night on the difference between corrugated plastic bilge hose, and smooth-wall hose. The results were surprising to me.

Using a 600 gallon steel stock tank, and a 325 gallon clear sprayer tank with exterior volume markings, we measured the output and amperage draw of two bilge pumps using the different hoses. We placed the pumps in the bottom of the stock tank, and then hooked the pumps up to a battery for 15 minutes.

My friend then had a beer (one during each test). I had a diet Dr. Pepper. (one for all 4 tests)

The first pump used was a new Attwood 500gph automatic bilge pump from WalMart. Using a 6' long piece of straight wall 3/4" garden hose, after 15 minutes the measured output was approximately 180 gallons, or about 620 gallons per hour. The amperage draw throughout was about 1.9-2.0 amps.

Repeating the process with 5' of corrugated 3/4" bilge hose gave us an output of approximately 95 gallons, or 380 gallons per hour, with an amperage draw of 2.2 amps.

The next pump we used was a 2 yr. old Rule 1250 manually switched pump, with a 1 1/8" output. Using 5' of fiber-reinforced straight-wall bilge hose, we got an output after 15 minutes of about 320 gallons, or 1280 gallons per hour, at 2.7 amps

Using 5' of corrugated bilge hose from West Marine, we got an output of only 240 gallons, or 960 gph, at 2.9 amps.

People, the difference may be between sinking and floating. These pumps are obviously rated for using straight-wall hose, NOT corrugated hose. Using corrugated hose provides less output while using more electricity.

While I expected a slight difference, I didn't expect so dramatic a difference. And I have corrugated hose hooked up to all three of my pumps in my bilge.

(Yes, I have THREE bilge pumps in a 20' Seafari, all 1200 gph rated. Two at the transom, and one in the bow under the cabin. I discovered the hard way that with 5 persons on board, and three of them sunning on the cabin deck, a Seafari will begin to sink bow-first when the drain plug is left in the engine well instead of being stuck in the little hole in the transom)

JOHN R.

Boat name.--King Temper

Homeport - Olcott NY

I was going to mention the article Big Dave referenced about the smooth hose vs the corrugated hose. I can't find the article now but the "experiment" was performed by someone from around LO who's on this site I believe, maybe they'll chime in. It was really good info and a big difference in pumping volume. I'm going to set up a second pump to and switch both pumps to smooth hose.

I'm going to be setting up some copper also and was wondering if it would be recommended to put heat shrink on the haywire twists to help travel through the guides of the rod? Would this help keep the tag end of the twist stay tight to the mainline?

bump

To help spooling reels, you could use a screwdriver through the spool of line then pushed through a tennis ball and locked in a bench vise. Squeezing the tennis ball will be your tension. This is easier for me than recruiting help to hold the line, especially if I have a couple reels to spool.

Thanks, I didn't realize that there was a removable panel there. I just thought it was a trim panel that the light is mounted on. It looks pretty easy now that I see how you did it. Thanks for the pics.

jcridge,

Would you be able to post some pics of your install? I've got the soft top model of the 225 and would like to see your modifications because I would like to get the AP14r also. It'll probably help others with boats with less space under the helm also. It'll be replacing my junk sport pilot too.

Thanks,

On one of mine the cable spool cracked and when pressure/weight is lifted it causes the crack to spread and jump the splines of the shaft. It is repairable, I just haven't gotten into it yet as I had a spare rigger and it was middle of season when it happened. With the rigger held in place, pull on the cable and have someone look at the center of the spool at the shaft and see if there is a crack. The crack in mine is not really visible until there is weight on it.

Good luck,

This past summer, I ran FB behind 11" prochips. I took fish equally on the green flasher and white flasher. They were 36" leads to a plain glow green head. I tried a couple colors of salmon slashers but they just didn't seem to be on when I was fishing meat. This summer was the first that I tried running meat.

This is the 16th deer season for me, started bow hunting at 14. Turned 30 three weeks ago.